First Time Bodice Maker - Guidance on next step?

[Stolenhalo6]

Last year I custom ordered a "cropped" bodice of the same style bodice I already owned from a seamstress I had previously worked with. It arrived the day before my festival run started, was an off the shelf size/cut, and didn't fit at all.

Since I enjoy sewing (even though I am terible at it) and love my original full length bodice, I decided to try to make a cropped bodice myself. I absolutely refuse to work with that seamstress again since the cropped bodice was her 2nd chance after messing up a previous order.

Using the cropped bodice and the full length bodice, I drew up a template on some cheap cotton for a hybrid bodice with some mods that I wanted. I've cut out the template and quick stitched it together. I'm happy with the fit and want to get started on the real deal.

From your experience, which would be easier for a beginner? Sewing the outer fabric and liner together finishing the raw edges with bias tape or similar -or- sewing the layers together with the raw edges tucked in? Does that question even make sense?

Thank you for any advice you have to offer.

[isabelladangelo]

First, why not just use a commercial pattern and edit it from there?  MUCH easier.

Second, what I do if it's a front lacing or back lacing bodice: I sew the shoulders of the lining, inner lining, and fashion fabric.  Meaning, the back pieces of the fashion fabric get sewn to the front pieces of the fashion fabric at the shoulders (shoulder straps together!).  Then, I move to the lining and do the same thing to the lining.  The fashion fabric, inner lining, and lining are NOT sewn together at this point.

Next, I put the inner lining flat on the floor.  I put the lining - the sewn side down (so I have the lining facing me)- on top of the inner lining and make sure they line up together.  Then, I put the fashion fabric face down (sewn side up!) on top of the lining.  I then put pins at the upper sides (start of the arm hole), lower sides, shoulder seam, upper opening, lower opening, and the top of the front/back (where it's not being laced.  So, if it's front lacing, I put a pin in the upper back).  This is all so it won't slide around while I'm sewing it.

I then sew from the upper armhole, around the shoulder strap, to the back/front upper armhole.  (So, all the way around the shoulder curve.)  I also sew the lacing opening, up around the neckline, and back down.  This turns the shoulder straps into a tube.   If you have a front lacing bodice, you pull the left front through the shoulder strap to the back to turn the bodice.  Do the same with the right front.  If you have a back lacing, then you just pull the left back through the shoulder strap to the front followed by the right. 

Once the bodice is turned, you match the underarm seams together at the sides and sew these up.   Take the left half of the back and the left half of the front, match the seams, pin it at the seam, sew. 

Now, only the bottom should be a raw edge.  I normally either use this to my advantage and make a dress out of it or just flip the ends into each other other (so the fashion layer gets flipped under but the lining get flipped under as well, hiding all the raw edges inside the bodice.  You can choose which way to turn the inner layer under).  I then whip stitch the bottom.

I don't use bias tape. 

[gem]

Hi, Rachel!

Copying an existing bodice was one of my very first garb projects, too. A lot quicker than altering an existing pattern, because I already knew it would fit me! (In fact, my current bodice sloper--the basic pattern block I use for all my bodices/gowns--is based on that very first bodice I copied, all those years ago!)

There are three basic ways to go with the construction, and I don't think any of them is objectively easier; it just depends on your skills and patience.

Binding is fun because it adds an extra detail to the ensemble, and when you make your own, the options are endless (my favorite binding material is microsuede--gazillions of colors, super-easy to work with; handles curves and pressing brilliantly, and the soft texture is visually nice)... but corners and curves take practice, and working with thick layers can be hard on your machine/hands. I prefer to sew the first pass by machine, and the second by hand. Here's a bodice I bound with microsuede.

Folding in the seam allowances and sewing both sides together... this is actually a period method of lining a bodice, if that's important to you! I love to do this step by hand; I think the finish is a little neater, and I just like hand-sewing anyway. This is a good tutorial, from a historical accuracy perspective, for constructing a bodice this way (in this case, for a kirtle, but the same techniques apply): http://freespace.virgin.net/f.lea/kirguide2.html
And here's a kirtle I made where I inserted the lining this way (not that you can really see any of this technique here; that is, after all, part of its charm!).

Thirdly, bag-lining, or lining-and-turning (which is the method Isabella describes, where you machine sew around the two layers, right sides together, leaving the straps/or side seams/or etc open... then turn right-side-out, press, and close up the openings). I did this on my first gazillion bodices and jerkins, and still do for many things that are un-boned or only lightly boned, and the only tricky bit here is figuring out how to sew/finish up the bits you turned through. Former forum member Baroness Doune has a wonderful tutorial that includes 3 different techniques for bag-lining/turning a Fair bodice: http://karen.htmlcreators.com/renbodice.html

Like I said, I think all three methods are probably equally easy, but I've personally gone more to the first two, simply because I've developed an obsession with binding, and I love to hand sew!  YMMV--pick whichever one seems to make the most sense to you right now, or sounds the most enjoyable, and go at it!

Good luck, and have fun!

[Stolenhalo6]

Isabelladangelo- Thankyou so much for your input. I think I understand the process you are describing, I just think it is outside of my abilities. I took notes though for future projects when I have some more experience.

Gem- The links you posted were really helpful! I think I've figured out how, to proceed based on a combo of the methods you described.

I'm basing my pattern on a bodice I already have, versus buying a pattern, because it fits really well and is exactly what I want. I know I don't have the skill or knowlege to fix a purchased pattern to fit my shape.

I also realized that I don' care how finished the inside of the bodice looks - especially my first attempt - so that makes things less complicated. I'm going for a renaissance working girl (not THAT kind  ) look, so a littlerough is okay.

[isabelladangelo]

The problem is that an messy inside will cause more wear on the fabric.  Also a peasant or middle class woman would have most likely worn a dress if you really want to go for a merchant look. 

[Stolenhalo6]

Good point on the wear of the fabric. I'll keep that in mind. I'm pretty hard on my garb anyway - I could get filthy in a sterile clean room.

I go for historically inspired. I really appreciate the works of historically acurate garbers, but it just isn't for me. I'm specifically going for a cropped bodice because I've been having problems with the heat the last two years. We've been having unseasonably warm falls. Since there isn't anyone to cover for me if I pass out, gotta take precautions.

[isabelladangelo]

Actually, the crop bodice will cause you to pass out more.   Also, if heat is the problem, what you really need is hankyweight linen (or a voila cotton) long sleeved chemise, a linen or cotton bodice with a scooped neck, and a lightweight shirt.  It's not just for religious reasons that everyone is covered up in the deserts of the Middle East - the natural fibers help to keep the sun off you - and thereby, you from over heating.  Also the natural fibers will help to absorb sweat and keep you cool.   Every time I see someone fall down at Pennsic or at the Renn Faire, it's because they are wearing things like a crop top bodice or poly-dead-dino fibers.  (Or, for the guys, they are running around without a shirt in the sun and wondering why they are turning into a lobster).  It's almost never the people wearing loose, lightweight long sleeved garments.

Other things to help - carry a fan.  I have several and you are to fan your neck, not your face.  You loose heat from your chest/neck region.  Drink cool water.  Drinking any water will help but cool - not cold- helps the most.  Get a wash cloth/handkerchief/bandana/fichu/ect and dip it in water (cool, preferably) through out the day.  Put this around the back of your neck.  Yeah, your garb will get wet but this also helps.  Don't use ice packs - I've seen and heard horrible things happen with those, like shock or even frostbite.   Carry a parasol if you can.  They can get annoying through out the day so some people started carrying quivers to put the parasol in when you don't need it. 

The Italians dealt with the heat in period as well - you might want to look to some of those garments.  Particularly since all late 15th century/early 16th century is is a sports bra with a skirt attached - or your crop bodice with a skirt attached.  That out of linen is dreamy when it's 95f out.