Need help reading mockup wrinkles...

[gem]

I'm still in the throes of test-fitting my bodice mockups for the Promenade Gown.  I'm happy to report that I'm almost there!

The latest one has a little problem in the back, though, and I'm not sure how to fix it.

See the wrinkles at the sides, just below the armscye?  I know they're telling me it's too tight somewhere, but where do I let it out?  Right there at the side-back seam?  Or somewhere else?



I'm definitely going to trim away some of the straps at the shoulder where it scoots onto my arm, and I'll be lowering the neckline... but I just don't know how to handle those stress wrinkles.

Thanks!!

[AnyuBoo]

If it feels too tight, then I'd try letting it out at the seams that wrinkle.  But if it feels ok, to me (and it's hard to be sure from a picture) they kinda look like seams that might just need to be clipped to lie properly.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

gem


You may need to rest your back seams a bit upwards where the wrinkles are., That will result in adjusting the shoulder seam and armsythe area.  Anything that is raised, reduce at the neckline to make fit better.

Does that make sense to you???

[gem]

Lady Kathleen, I'm not sure what this means:

rest your back seams a bit upwards

I'm kind of picturing changing the angle of the seams so they're a little more vertical?  Maybe?  In my head, that sounds like it would open up the armscye a little.  Is that what you meant?

Thanks!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I meant to say raise the back side seam and then adjust the shoulder seam.

YES!!!!!

[gem]

Well, that's easy enough!  Thanks!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Did you draft your own pattern, gem?? If you did, it looks fantastic!!!

Making a mockup of a bodice makes garb making easier. It helps knowing how one's body will look in the finished product, saving time and money in Alterations, frustrations of a poor fit, extra materials, etc. Which is why I make a duplicate of a Bodice Mockup so that the client and I have one to compare as to what needs to be adjusted before I proceed.

[Cilean]

I agree with Anyabu!

Your armscye is too tight under your arm take out like 1/2 inch and see if your wrinkles don't leave!

Good luck!

Cilean

[gem]

Thanks, Cilean! 

I'm thinking that's exactly what I'm going to do.  I tried it on again this morning with the S/As to the inside, and it was easier to see what it was doing, and how to fix it.  I think trimming out the entire armscye is just going to make them vanish.

Did you draft your own pattern, gem?? If you did, it looks fantastic!!!

Lady K, thanks!  And yes and no. LOL  There've been so many versions of this that essentially, yes, I drafted the darn thing.  But it has parts of previous bodices I've made, parts of the Margo Anderson pattern (which explains the extremely high neckline and tight arms), and a *lot* of tweaking and re-drafting until nothing is recognizable anymore.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When I did my Mary, QoS gown, I used the Margo pattern and did a muslin, which when I adjusted, worked out great..... I made sure I did it over the corset that I was wearing it with.



What's nice with the Margo pattern is that there is a seam allowance of 5/8" verses 1/2". That one-eighth of an inch makes a difference somehow.

Be sure to show photos, gem ,of the process for your gown.

[LadyStitch]

My pattern making tutor always says "Listen to your wrinkles. They point to all your problems."

Yours look like they are pointing to your arm hole.  (I never can spell the word right.) like the other's suggested,  adjust the arm holeabout half an inch.