Another tall hat question--Margo Anderson pattern trouble

[gem]

I've cut out the pattern pieces for the MA tall hat, but I'm stumped by the cutting lines on the brim. Has anyone made this hat before, or perhaps just have general tall hat advice that may apply?

The brim pattern piece is used for both the Tall Hat and the Flat Cap, but there are two sets of cutting lines for the outer edge of the brim, and I can't figure out why. Is one set for the Tall Hat, and the other for the Flat Cap? That would make sense, but there's no indication that I can find of which is which. Or perhaps the inner lines are for the buckram base, and the other lines include seam allowances for the fabric?  But if that's the case, then the crown and top pieces should also have the same second set of lines, and they don't. There are only three sizes to the pattern (S,M,L), so they're not multisize/grade lines.

Anyone know? Or have a rational guess?

Sorry for the poor quality image; I've not yet ironed the pattern & pattern tissue is hard to photograph well!


Do I want the outer cutting lines (blue arrow) or the inner cutting lines (red arrow)?

Thanks!!

[Rowan MacD]

   I wish I could help, but my single attempt at using the MA tall hat pattern was a disaster.  The odd looking result still sits on a shelf in my sewing room as a reminder of what epic fail looks like.  I haven't used her hat patterns since; I switched to Lynn McMasters.

    The brim pattern looks to be for two different hats.   I'm not at home, so I can't look in my directions to find which is which.  What does the book say? 
   It may just be two different widths of the same brim.....

[Lady Rosalind]

I think I just used the smaller set of lines. As long as you cut the inner stiffening, and the other pieces consistently, it should work.

Just a warning: this pattern tends to make a more Top Hat shaped-hat than a tall hat-shaped hat. I ended up messing with the shape of the crown to get it more angled the second time I made it. It just isn't an easy pattern, or a very good one (I had no end of trouble getting the brim over the crown as per the instructions on my first try. The second worked a bit better, but I had made a lot of modifications to it.

My newest hat is using the Lynn McMasters pattern, and it was loads easier.

[Rowan MacD]

  ^^I second that^^ I'm pretty sure the outside lines are for the flat cap..
   My MA hat also turned out too 'square' on the crown. 
  I also did not like the brim pattern-It looks like a '0' rather than an oval. The result was so disappointing, I almost gave up on making a hat at all.

     However, a well made tall hat was going to run me close to $200.00.  That motivated me to find something that worked with my limited millinery skills.

  The LM patterns are worth it-IMHO. 



these are my two green ones-I have one in black velveteen too....

[isabelladangelo]

     However, a well made tall hat was going to run me close to $200.00.  That motivated me to find something that worked with my limited millinery skills.

 

Really?   I bought mine for $60...  Tall Toad has them for $75 now.  The lace might need to be changed out depending on what you are trying to do (I never bothered since I only wear it for 1590's/1600's). 

[Rowan MacD]

   Isabella-I have 2 of those-also paid $60.00 each for them (Hubby and I are wearing them in my profile pic).  Though Tall Toad calls them tall hats, they are closer to arched brim riding hats in style.

"Tall' (High crowned) hat: http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/highcrownedcover.html


Arched brim riding hat: http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/arcbrimpatterncover.html

    The Tall hat I was looking for is in my post above, and I had to make them.  There are a few vendors who make the tall crowned hat shown above, but they charge out the wazoo and I didn't want to pay that if I could make it myself.

This one by Fyne Hats by Felicity was quoted to me for about $125-$150.00 with minimum trim.
http://cgi-wsc.chi.us.siteprotect.com/extras/res/js/slideshow/slideshow.html?cc=0.931894717370342&accountId=AHW050INV0PO&instanceId=d6fa5ef02773d437594494f17768eca7&sort=byuploaddate&parasite=http%3A%2F%2Ffynehatsbyfelicity.com%2F1687.html%3Fcc%3D0.05227660235591358%26sort%3Dbyuploaddate%26limit%3D30%26offset%3D0&filter=&jumpTo=0531fffb7c3928ee532e5b844314253a59b5&LC=en_US

[Stuben]

     However, a well made tall hat was going to run me close to $200.00.  That motivated me to find something that worked with my limited millinery skills.

 

Really?   I bought mine for $60...  Tall Toad has them for $75 now.  The lace might need to be changed out depending on what you are trying to do (I never bothered since I only wear it for 1590's/1600's).

Thanks for the website Isabella! I seen that site before but could not find it again until now. 

[gem]

I know this thread is from last year, but I finally have an answer to my "what's that extra cutting line?" question! This hat project never ended up going anywhere, but I am back at it again.

I mentioned in the first post that the same brim pattern is used for the flat cap as the tall hat. Well, I just happened to glance at the instructions for the flat cap as I was flipping through the manual, and it says "Two options for brim width are included." Ha!! That extra cutting line *is* for the flat cap. HOWEVER, I still don't know which one you're supposed to use for the tall hat! 

Still dithering on what I'm doing. I am supposed to be constructing the Lynn McMasters arched brim hat, but I don't really care for the style on me (mocked it up in poster board). But I'm committed to making *some* hat appropriate to my merchant garb, and these are the patterns I have.

[Dinobabe]

I know this thread is from last year, but I finally have an answer to my "what's that extra cutting line?" question! This hat project never ended up going anywhere, but I am back at it again.

I mentioned in the first post that the same brim pattern is used for the flat cap as the tall hat. Well, I just happened to glance at the instructions for the flat cap as I was flipping through the manual, and it says "Two options for brim width are included." Ha!! That extra cutting line *is* for the flat cap. HOWEVER, I still don't know which one you're supposed to use for the tall hat! 

Still dithering on what I'm doing. I am supposed to be constructing the Lynn McMasters arched brim hat, but I don't really care for the style on me (mocked it up in poster board). But I'm committed to making *some* hat appropriate to my merchant garb, and these are the patterns I have.

I haven't read the above posts so forgive if this has already been mentioned.
There is a FB group for Margo patterns that may be helpful.  Margo is very good about answering questions.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/75588713725/