More about fitting: Sloper/fitting patterns

[gem]

Last summer, the Baroness posted a wonderful thread about sloper patterns, or fitting patterns, which you make to your own measurements and can use to draft any perfectly-fitting pattern from... or to compare commercial patterns against and know exactly where to make adjustments.

IIRC, the Baroness used a pattern from one of the Big 3, which had to be special ordered.

Does anyone have more information about this, or tips, or experiences or advice they'd like to share? 

I think I'm finally at the point in my sewing where I'm ready for this.  (Not sayin' I'm going to do it immediately  , but I am seeing more and more where it would be really handy.)

[Baroness Doune]

Well, it was this article in Threads magazine which reminded me of the sloper I made years ago.

The current version of the pattern is McCalls 2718.

Just like the version I made years ago, the pattern and instructions for McCalls 2718 are designed by Palmer/Pletsch.  In addition to the sloper pattern, there is a classic shirt, straight skirt, and shirtdress pattern included in the pattern envelope.

The step-by-step directions in the pattern are very thorough and will stand alone, but if you like a good book on fitting, there is Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto.  The book is available on the Palmer/Pletch website.

Threads magazine recently came out with the Threads Fitting DVD Series.  My boxed set just arrived a couple of days ago but I haven't had the chance to watch any of the DVDs yet. 

Am I a fit fanatic?  Yes.  But I have barely scratched the surface of this subject.  Michaela de Bruce, who's background and training is in theatrical costuming, once mentioned in her LJ that just tiny changes in the fit of the garment can subconsciously change the audience's perception of a character.  As Spock would say "Fascinating."

[Lady Rosalind]

Thanks, Baroness! That looks really useful! I'm glad you brought this up again, Gem!

[Kate XXXXXX]

For those wishing to experiment with an on-line sloper generator, this might prove useful: http://pattern.stringcodes.com/index.html

I haven't explored how much the service costs...  They do both standard and custom fit slopers.

For those who might like to try drafting their own:

http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-02.html

http://www.leenas.com/PDF/PDF_En/draw_bodice.pdf

[Elennare]

Has anyone ever seen one of these type of patterns with pants?  Or do you have to draft your own from a book?  I have yet to be able to make a pair of pants that fits me correctly...

[Kate XXXXXX]

Here you go:  http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V1003.htm?tab=skirts_pants_includes_designer&page=5

[Artemisia]

I've used the sloper instructions at Renaissance Tailor:
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_patterndraft.htm

[Baroness Doune]

A member of the forums asked me for a review of the Threads DVD Fitting Series.
Anyone else interested?

[gem]

Sure!

[Kate XXXXXX]

Me too!  I've wondered about getting that...

[Baroness Doune]

Here ya go...

OK.  I took a look at the bust and torso fitting DVDs.

It's like taking a course on fitting.   

The format of each DVD is very logical and well presented.  Each DVD is divided into titled sections, so you can either watch from beginning to end or skip to the particular section of interest.

The techniques shown are classic alteration techniques.  With the way the information is presented, anyone can follow along and do these alterations.  The visual of watching someone pin fitting or cutting the sloper in certain places to  make the alterations is extremely helpful.  And then the DVD can be paused while one does the same in real life.

Some of the techniques require a helper.  You nearly always need a helper to get accurate measurements, but the technique for checking shoulder slope requires a helper who traces the outline of the shoulders on a big sheet of white paper taped to the wall.  Pin fitting the back will also require a helper.

In most cases, the pattern alterations are done to a basic sloper.  So, I think purchasing a sloper pattern like McCalls 2718 is a good idea.  The instructions in 2718 would be a good accompaniment to the DVD set because the pattern alterations - for example, lowering or raising the bust dart - are the same.  Apparently, there are some other patterns out there that have different front pattern pieces for different cup sizes, just like McCalls 2718.  One of those patterns should also work as a sloper pattern.

Some of the alterations are with a princess seam pattern.  I can't think of any basic pattern like that but I suppose any princess seam pattern would do as they all tend to fit close to the body.  One alteration was done with a dolman sleeve.

I am always looking for ways to apply these fitting techniques to historical costuming.  And I found a couple of things that would directly apply to the 14th and 15th century self supporting gowns and bodices.

So, even though I didn't really see anything new in these DVDs, except for the light bulb moments on fitting 14th and 15th century garb, I still thought it was worth it to purchase them.  I would do it again in a heartbeat.