Author Topic: Bodice Shoulder Rolls on Gown  (Read 727 times)

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Offline Don Giovanni de' Medici

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Bodice Shoulder Rolls on Gown
« on: November 12, 2015, 07:18:21 AM »
I am having some trouble with the shoulder rolls trimming the top and back of the bodice on the newest gown I am creating.  While it seems to lay better when worn it still wants to torque the straps and puts and odd bend at 45 degree angle half way round. I should mention that the rolls are stuffed. Is this perhaps just too much stuffing?
Sincero,

Don Giovanni de' Medici
Ambasciatore del Granducato della Toscana
"Dio conserva il Papa"

Offline Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

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Re: Bodice Shoulder Rolls on Gown
« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2015, 12:01:57 PM »
Photos would help.

When I make Shoulder rolls, I use Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion book on clothing from 1560 to 1620. The shoulder rolls are drawn out to look like footballs, depending on how tall you want them I trim them before I sew it all together before stuffing. Where there is room, I make darts so that the Shoulder Roll fits nicely on the straps. Stuff enough so that they are able to be shaped.

Here is a gown I made in 2014 for myself that has hand made Shoulder rolls.



"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Offline Don Giovanni de' Medici

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Re: Bodice Shoulder Rolls on Gown
« Reply #2 on: November 25, 2015, 12:53:10 PM »
I think part of the issue was that the stuffing was bunching. Also I stitched my rolls on the gown into the side seam of the should strap (in the same fashion as a for a doublet) and not hand stitch them to the top of the strap as it appears yours are Signora. I was hoping this this might better hide where the sleeves tie in. Once the sleeves are tied on it is also not as noticeable.
Sincero,

Don Giovanni de' Medici
Ambasciatore del Granducato della Toscana
"Dio conserva il Papa"

Offline Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

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  • Maker of Fyne Attyre, Royal Wardrobe Designer
    • Custom Desgns By Lady Kathleen
Re: Bodice Shoulder Rolls on Gown
« Reply #3 on: November 25, 2015, 06:20:41 PM »
I use Polyester Fiberfill in just the right amounts to get a nice shape. I know the period appropriate were rags or fabric scraps.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

 

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