Bodice Shoulder Rolls on Gown

[Don Giovanni de' Medici]

I am having some trouble with the shoulder rolls trimming the top and back of the bodice on the newest gown I am creating.  While it seems to lay better when worn it still wants to torque the straps and puts and odd bend at 45 degree angle half way round. I should mention that the rolls are stuffed. Is this perhaps just too much stuffing?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Photos would help.

When I make Shoulder rolls, I use Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion book on clothing from 1560 to 1620. The shoulder rolls are drawn out to look like footballs, depending on how tall you want them I trim them before I sew it all together before stuffing. Where there is room, I make darts so that the Shoulder Roll fits nicely on the straps. Stuff enough so that they are able to be shaped.

Here is a gown I made in 2014 for myself that has hand made Shoulder rolls.

[Don Giovanni de' Medici]

I think part of the issue was that the stuffing was bunching. Also I stitched my rolls on the gown into the side seam of the should strap (in the same fashion as a for a doublet) and not hand stitch them to the top of the strap as it appears yours are Signora. I was hoping this this might better hide where the sleeves tie in. Once the sleeves are tied on it is also not as noticeable.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I use Polyester Fiberfill in just the right amounts to get a nice shape. I know the period appropriate were rags or fabric scraps.