thinking of making a bodice *shudder*

[Auryn]

So I have been dreaming of making myself a bodice (not H/A) for years- long before I got into faire.

I saw one online today that inspired me to bite the bullet and give it a go. The thing that scares the begeezers out of me is the boning and the interlining, I'm pretty sure I can handle everything else.
I am a size 10 in commercial mundane clothes, a 30" waist and 36 A/B bust. I'm not really looking to get boobage that isnt there. I just love the look.  I am settling for using high tensile strength commercial plastic zip ties for my boning (I've been reading all the older posts)- gonna order them from one of my suppliers at work.

I have a couple of patterns for bodices from the Big 3, but I was wondering if anyone here had any instructional help/ tips/ tricks or guidance they would be willing to offer as I undertake this challenge.

Any help would be gladly appreciated.

[Genievea Brookstone]

I think the biggest tip is to make a muslin. That way you can ensure it fits right and you can make your adjustments before cutting up your fashion fabric. I have been 3 different sizes using the big3 patterns. So I trace my patterns out first using the size I am in mundane life onto paper and I use the fabric that is going to be my lining ( usually a cotton) as my muslin. Any changes I make I write on my pattern copy and go on from there

I know there are a number of threads in here that have helped me in my progress and if I weren't tying this from an itouch I would link them for you LOL.

Happy sewing!

[Deckard And Zhora]

Yeah, Genievea--that's a great idea. I started too late on mine a few years ago, rushed through it and then it didn't quite fit right. I had big gaps between my pieces but I could still wear it. Luckily I've lost 50 pounds since then, so it's now almost to big on me!

I would just say take your time, and if you do mess up a little bit, even if you're mad at it or fed up, go back and fix it. I'm mad at myself now for doing a sloppy job when mine could have been so much more. But that just means I'll have to make another one!



And practice with the eyelets to get the best look. I made Butterick B4254 pattern B and as a novice at the sewing machine, I managed it. Enjoy the experience!

[Trillium]

Don't let it scare you and take your time, read, re-read, and re-read the instructions.  Pin stuff together and look at it before sewing it.  Definitely make a mock-up first.  I usually use mine as the middle lining.  It sounds like you are close to the same size as me, the pattern that I use is the Simplicity one with the shepherdess and gypsy on the front, sorry don't remember the number!  It fits nicely, I just had to extend the bottom a little, guess I'm a little longer waisted.

It scared the bejeebers out of me the first time, but I'm not as intimidated by it anymore!

Good luck and remember that we're here to help!

[isabelladangelo]

I'd suggest a bodice pattern that does NOT have princess line seams in it.   The Elizabethan bodice by Simplicity is a very excellent pattern.  It will give you a better look, is easier to deal with when sewing, and won't have as much give.  (You do not want give in a bodice).

Interlining is very simple.   Place the canvas/duck/other interlining on the floor once you have the shoulder seems sewn (sometimes you just have a one piece bodice and don't put the shoulder straps on until later.  if so, then just lay the one piece down on the floor).   Put the lining down on top of it, face up.   Make sure the pieces lie on top of each other nicely.   Then put the outer material on top of this small pile, face down.   Sew up the edges to the point you just have to turn it.   (I sew the underarms, then the neckline/lacing front or back.  I then pull the pieces through the straps, turning it.   Then I sew up the sides.  Finishing the bottom is a matter of either bias tape or turning the edges under and slipstiching it.)


Boning channels aren't hard.  It's keeping the bones from popping through the material that takes practice.  :-)

[Auryn]

Thank you all so very much.
I think I will start reading the instructions tonight.

In regards to the boning  channel, do you make those while you are building it?? do they go into the interlining and lining, or do they go in after its all put together but before you put in the bias tape on the edges??

[gem]

Did you tell us what pattern you were using?

I've made several multi-layer bodices, which were lined and turned as Isabella described, and I've made a 2-layer corset that was all sandwiched together and bound with bias tape. 

I always stitch the boning channels into the sturdiest layers of the bodice/corset.  With my reversible bodices, that's 2 layers of heavy cotton canvas.  See here.  I then sew that layer to the lining layer of the bodice and trim the seam allowances.

[Auryn]

well, i thought I had a couple of patterns for boned bodices but apparently I don't, all the ones I have are not boned and they have princess seams. ( i seriously feel like I am missing a handful of patterns from my box)
The only thing I have is Mccalls 4861 but thats for corsets.
So I guess I need to get myself a pattern for a boned bodice, any suggestions??

[Anna Iram]

Here's a tutorial from:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/kirtlepat/index.html

I've used her corset generator and it's fit wonderfully. You can draft one out and then alter it using this how to.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/

You may still want to use a standard bodice pattern as I know this looks kind of intimidating, but if you draft this out on paper and lay it over your purchased pattern you might be able to make a few simple alterations before you cut and acheive a better fit.

Good luck.

[gem]

Most of the Big 4 bodice patterns will have either darts or princess seams.  They can be drafted out.  They will also typically run a little large, so make a mockup.  I would highly recommend Baroness Doune's extremely comprehensive page on bodices, which gives you pretty much every technique you'll need for this process.

I personally haven't had the greatest luck with the custom corset generator, but YMMV.  And you can absolutely use a corset pattern for a bodice; just use pretty fabric!  I made the Simplicity 2621 corset from a gorgeous linen damask, and I wear it as outerwear, too. Clicky.

There's no reason you can't add bones or an interlining, etc to a pattern that's been drafted without them.  My best bodices were actually made by copying an existing unboned RTW bodice, tweaking the fit, and adding a boned canvas interlining.

Good luck!

[Auryn]

I absolutely love you all.
I will finish my pirate coat this weekend and start on a corset.
Hopefully I will find some good backing fabric at joan's 50% off red tag sale this weekend.