Sewing with velvet-need every bit of info I can get.

[Selkie]

Recently, I purchased 6 yards of gorgeous gunmetal-colored crushed velvet for the sealskin I am making for my selkie costume. It has the exact appearance I've been looking for. Soft, a nice sheen to it, a sort of spotted look to it when the light hits it. Very seal-like, in my opinion. I know it is synthetic, but I'm not too concerned with that fact as I will be wearing this more as a stole than a garment that is directly against my skin.

Anyhow, I need to know how to handle this sort of material so I achieve the look I want for it. I will probably be hand-sewing this, since I feel like I'll have more control by using regular needles instead of a sewing machine. I have looked on the internet somewhat and gathered a little more knowledge, but still not sufficient enough, in my opinion. So, if someone with expertise with these fabrics could please offer their knowledge, I would be very grateful.

[operafantomet]

I haven't worked with crushed velvet, but stitching the fabric in place before sewing really is helpful for velvets in general.

[Selkie]

Stitching the fabric in place?    Do you mean setting pins in it to hold in in place or what? I'm still new to sewing, hence why I ask.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Are you talking about a stretch knit panne velvet?  Looks like T shirt fabric on the back?  Like this (sorry - non garb!) dress:



If so, read this carefully:

The sewing machine will cope perfectly well, but there are several ways to help it and make life easier.

Use a ball point or jersey needle.  They are designed for knits and will make life a lot easier.  If your velvet has a Lycra/Spandex/elastane content, use a SUPER STRETCH needle.

Pin at right angles to the cut edge, and if the sewing machine will cope, sew over them carefully.  You may want to hand baste rather than leave pins in.  This is a running stitch done on the seam line by hand.  The stitches should be about 2cm long.

Ignore the STRETCH STITCHES on your machine!  I've never found any that work really well, and doing it the old fashioned way works better!  Set the machine to a short stitch (not tiny - 2mm is good), and a narrow zigzag.  This will allow you to press the seam allowances open if you wish, and will stretch. 

Stretch the fabric VERY SLIGHTLY both in front of and behind the needle.  Keep equal VERY LIGHTtension and let the machine feed the fabric...  This is called 'taut sewing'.  Sew carefully and slowly.  This is no time for speed - you are already coping with a new technique and a new fabric!   

Wherever possible, sew in the same direction as the pile!  Like this:

________________________________________________________________  (fabric)
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (pile)
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// (pile)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- (fabric)
START--------------->STITCH DIRECTION--------------------------------->END


If at all possible, get a WALKING FOOT (also known as an EVEN FEED foot), like this:



This will give you feed dogs on top of the fabric as well as under it, and will help to feed the fabric through without stretching the top layer more than the lower layer.


Panne velvet doesn't fray and rarely unravels, so there is no real need to finish the inside, other than for neatness if the seam allowances will show.



If this is a WOVEN velvet, use a new UNIVERSAL needle and a straight stitch.  Don't use the 'taut sewing' technique, but do baste and use a walking foot.  Also, sew in the direction of the pile...  You WILL need to clean finish all the edges unless they are fully enclosed in a lining, as velvet often frays madly!

[Selkie]

Thank you. That is the type of fabric I have. At first I thought it was velvet on both sides, but it's that type of fabric. Does it have to be sewn on a sewing machine to be put together properly? I know it saves time, but I really don't have much know-how with a sewing machine.

[Kate XXXXXX]

It's much easier, and you get a much better finish.  The BEST way to sew it is with a serger  - gives this finish:



However, if there isn't one available, the method outlined above is the best way forward.

Hand stitching isn't really a good idea because the fabric stretches, and it's too easy to distort it as you sew.  It's also slippery, and slides down the threads if you just use a running stitch.  It's much easier to build in seam stretch with the machine, as sewing a seam that will stretch while not distorting it as you sew is quite hard by hand.

[gypsylakat]

I worked with something like that and the only way I could get it to feed evenly because i didn't have a walking food was to put one hand and grip the fabric from the rear of the sewing machine, and one hand to guide the fabric while holding it fairly taut (not super stretched taut just enough that it was even.

I am anxious to do something I can use my future MIL's walking foot for. she just shelled out for a new singer... and I actually don't like the machine I just wnat to use that foot.... The machine rocks and sounds like an airplane.

[Adriana Rose]

It rolls like a little pain in the rump! so make sure that you have it pinned really well!

But other than that the stuff is pretty much indistrucable!

[Cilean]

I am with Ms Kate who is our sewing maven!! If you can beg or borrow a serger? It will help you immensely!!! You will smile and dance with joy, plus it will give you a really good edge but if you don't have this, then use a good Zig Zag on your sewing machine. In my opinion? Don't hand sew it, on this type of material you will need the machines oomph of getting the job done.


Good Luck
Cilean

[Miranda]

Serging your fabric will save you a world of trouble. 

I actually prefer to hand baste parsnickity fabrics, like silks and velvets, then machine stitching them.  The basting can stay in while you sew and you don't run the risk of hitting a pin.  Hand basting also stays put better than pins do which makes the garment easier to manipulate while machine sewing.

The results are nicer too with less puckering and shifting.

[Selkie]

There's no way I could get a hold of a serger, but I will just take my time on the sewing machine. One question I had about the hand basting is do you go over the hand basting with the zigzag stitching? Or do you simply leave it there and sew the zigzag stitch next to it?

[Kate XXXXXX]

If you baste carefully just into the seam allowance, you should be able to sew right next to it ON the seam allowance, and then pull the threads out before finishing the seam allowances, if you are doing that.  Don't worry if you DO sew over the basting - it will still pull out!