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Good Bodice pattern?

Started by Adriana Rose, September 02, 2008, 05:58:10 PM

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Adriana Rose

I am on the hunt for a new front lacing bodice, I would love to have it be long lined so that it goes down to my hips rather than my waist. I had a baby last year so I have a tad more fluff on my tummy and the standard patterns that I have found dont do any thing pretty for my tummy!

So does any one have a pattern that would work for me?

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



Alter Years make good paterns for Bodices that lace in the front as well as back and are simple to make.   http://www.alteryears.com/

PAY-005

PAY-009

I use the PAY-009 for Bodices for front as awell as back lacing with great success. Good luck!!!
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

isabelladangelo

What it sounds like you are looking for is a (late!) Victorian corset pattern.   You might want to search using those terms to see what comes up.

Hips are actually very period.  By the middle of the 16th c, those without hips, were wearing bumrolls to make themselves look bigger.   Hips meant you wouldn't die in childbirth and were considered an asset.  So, wear a regular, renaissance bodice and you'll have the period shape. ;)

Tygrkat

Quote from: isabelladangelo on September 03, 2008, 05:55:05 AM
What it sounds like you are looking for is a (late!) Victorian corset pattern.   You might want to search using those terms to see what comes up.

Hips are actually very period.  By the middle of the 16th c, those without hips, were wearing bumrolls to make themselves look bigger.   Hips meant you wouldn't die in childbirth and were considered an asset.  So, wear a regular, renaissance bodice and you'll have the period shape. ;)

...Yet another reason to LOVE Renaissance garb  ;D
50% Endora, 50% Aunt Clara.

Adriana Rose

 :D

Thanks for that!

I am attempting a victorian corset soon, but I wanted a nice front lacer that would be fairly easy to attack since I am gonna probably need a constant supply of chocolate to get me through making the vic!

gem

Do you have a bodice that currently fits you well?  If so, you can use that to draft a really great pattern.  After you have the basics down, you can then change the dip in the front to make it longer, alter the neckline, change where it laces, etc.  Even if you're working with a bodice that's a little too big or too small, you can still use it as your jumping-off place, and then tweak the mockup/s as necessary.

1. Take the bodice, and unlace it everywhere.

2. Get some paper to do your drafting on (I like the gridded back of wrapping paper for this)

3. Lay the bodice out as flat as you can on the paper, and carefully trace around each piece.  (So, say, a basic front-lacer will be two fronts and one back, and you actually only need to trace one of the fronts).  You'll have to kind of fuss with the straps to get them to lie smoothly, but it's not that hard.

4. Set bodice aside, look at pattern.  Smooth out any wonky lines.  Make alterations (longer in front, higher in the neckline, whatever).  Make a note of where you need to add seam allowances.

5. Cut the whole thing out of muslin or other cheap fabric to test the fit.

6. Repeat steps as necessary, until the muslin fits you like you want it, and then use the muslin as your pattern for the fancy fabric.

Good luck!!  I've been making *all* my bodices (and gown bodices) this way for a couple of years now.  Very easy!

FortuneRose

Quote from: isabelladangelo on September 03, 2008, 05:55:05 AM
What it sounds like you are looking for is a (late!) Victorian corset pattern.   You might want to search using those terms to see what comes up.

Hips are actually very period.  By the middle of the 16th c, those without hips, were wearing bumrolls to make themselves look bigger.   Hips meant you wouldn't die in childbirth and were considered an asset.  So, wear a regular, renaissance bodice and you'll have the period shape. ;)

Eh, I'm in the same boat ....  but its not the hips that are the problem...  its the stomach pooch left behind after the baby.  It makes the bodices curl oddly.  I have just been wearing "fluffier" skirts to try and hide it a bit.
LLVW

isabelladangelo

It sounds like you just need a better bodice.   Try putting in thick cable ties or steel boning rather than the stuff from Joanns.   Most of the store bought bodices only have featherweight boning and that won't hold most people in.   

Dayna

Indeed, cable ties are the way to go, especially at first until you get everything exactly right, and if you don't want to or have the wherewithal to work with steel boning after that, it's still a very good way to bone bodices and/or corsets.

Featherweight, ridgeline, etc. are for prom dresses you wear only once for a few hours and people who don't need to put any stress on their fabric.  The only people I've seen who successfully use them in garb are people who don't have anything to squish. 

Dayna
Dayna Thomas
Nixie's Mom
Bristol FoF Hench
Education Goddess...yeah, right
FoF Merchant Liason/Merchandizing Maven

Adriana Rose

Gem you read my mind!

I was looking at my moresca max and I thought that i could turn it into a front lacer!

Now I gotta get me some boning!

Lady Ophelia

#10
Hi there! (wow, first post ^_^)

I'm very much into costume making and wearing, and have found that if you don't wish to go through all the hassle of making an 'authentic' Elizabethan corset (with the steel boning, layers of bias interfacing, etc.), you can get away with wrapping your trouble areas with an Ace Bandage -- seriously! The large ones that cover broad areas do nicely (I use them religiously when dressing up in kimono, as you are supposed to have a 'tube' shape....and my bust sort of prevents that).

Begin by holding up your bust and wrapping from armpit level (or wherever you can safely start without showing under your chemise) downwards, making sure not to put too much spacing between passes. Start out loose at first -- because after a few rounds of the bandage, you will definitely feel the pressure (haha). You do want to feel comfortable still. Continue until bandage runs out (I can usually get six or seven passes out of one, without stretching too much...but I'm fairly small boned. Those with a 36" bust and 24-26" waist will probably get four or five good turns no problem). Creates a good 'V' shape.

Wear two if one doesn't quite hold you in -- or if one falls short of total coverage.

They are breathable, they are cheap, and they are fairly lightweight and take up little room underneath your clothing. I have several on hand for emergencies!

Go about wearing featherlight boning or a regular bodice. Sure, you won't look like you could take a cannonball to the ribs and walk away unharmed (feel sorry for the cannonball) -- but you will be able to breathe (providing you didn't wrap too tightly) and still look good.

^_^
I fart in your general direction!

Your mother was a hamster and your father smelt...of elderberries!!

shaunalee

I use a standard civil war corset pattern and then add 2 inches all the way around at the waist.  Then use 3/8 inch flat steel stays where the pattern calls for 1/4.  This allows the corset to sinch in at the waist but will not bend over the belly.  It gives a very nice smooth look.