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Author Topic: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited  (Read 7235 times)

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Offline Escarlata

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Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« on: September 03, 2008, 06:53:09 AM »
Long long ago and far far away .... oh wait, wrong fairy tale.

Anyway, back on the old boards, we had a thread for a group of us who were working with this pattern. I think the rest of you all got finished. I never did but am back on the project now, thanks to the Ranger who kept Prussia occupied and out of the middle of the pattern pieces. I need some advice please.

Here are a couple of key points before I ask questions:
  • I am NOT going for historical accuracy
  • I am using recycled material - cotton velvet upholstery grade, not stiff, almost no nap, limited quantity
  • I have cut the front and back pieces
  • I've had to narrow the godet and cut as four pieces rather than on the fold

Now for the questions:

  • What is the purpose of the front and back extensions? If it's just to add length to the hem, I did that by cutting the front and back longer. Do I still need the extensions?
  • They call for a hem facing that is almost a foot deep. Is it really necessary? I'll have to piece material to do it.
  • Other than restricting the length of my stride, what kind of problems am I going to run in to for having narrowed the godet and having to seam it?
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Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2008, 10:01:35 AM »
Long long ago and far far away .... oh wait, wrong fairy tale.

Anyway, back on the old boards, we had a thread for a group of us who were working with this pattern. I think the rest of you all got finished. I never did but am back on the project now, thanks to the Ranger who kept Prussia occupied and out of the middle of the pattern pieces. I need some advice please.

Here are a couple of key points before I ask questions:
  • I am NOT going for historical accuracy
  • I am using recycled material - cotton velvet upholstery grade, not stiff, almost no nap, limited quantity
  • I have cut the front and back pieces
  • I've had to narrow the godet and cut as four pieces rather than on the fold

Now for the questions:

  • What is the purpose of the front and back extensions? If it's just to add length to the hem, I did that by cutting the front and back longer. Do I still need the extensions?

I shouldn't think so.  If you look at the pattern envelope, the picture doesn't have a seam across it.  The extensions get added to the pattern before cutting.  They print it like this to save paper.

[quote/]
  • They call for a hem facing that is almost a foot deep. Is it really necessary? I'll have to piece material to do it.
[/quote]

Make the facing out of some lesser fabric.  The whole thing may need the width for weight...  Experiment a bit with something less grand than the velvet.

[quote/]
  • Other than restricting the length of my stride, what kind of problems am I going to run in to for having narrowed the godet and having to seam it?
[/quote]

None...  Just be careful when pressing the seam.

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2008, 12:05:48 PM »
Thanks, Kate, I appreciate the answers. They were just what I was hoping to hear. Well, not the hem facing part, I was really hoping to do away with that part. I wondered if weight was the purpose.
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Offline Anna Iram

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2008, 01:36:14 PM »
Esc, mine is made from a lightweight fabric and has no facing or trim at the hem at all.  I've noticed no problem with it needing more weight. I do wear it over an underskirt and I do have the side pieces (godets?) Mine are actually made a bit longer than the front or back as I was told that was how it was done. I then wear it knotted or tucked . I should think even with a narrowed godet you could still get that look.

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2008, 01:46:38 PM »
Thanks, Anna. I've seen yours in person and couldn't remember you having the wide hem facing.

I'm planning on using a contrasting bias tape to bind the edges of the neck and side openings. I wonder if I could just run a zigzag stitch on the raw edge to prevent raveling and then put the tape on without the interfacing?

Curved seams are NOT my friends. I never seem to get them to lie smoothly.
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Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2008, 03:04:44 PM »
That seams (giggle) like a perfect way to finish the edges to me.  The interfacing gets applied to the facings, and if you miss those out and bind the edges, there's no place for the interfacing in your construction.

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2008, 03:31:00 PM »
YAY!!! I hoped it would work that way. Thanks, Kate, for the confirmation and the chuckle.

OK, the next phase of this project won't happen until sometime Friday when the seamstress who's making the underdress (strange fabric choice, my machine just won't handle it) brings it over for a fitting. We'll make the corresponding "adjustments" to the overdress and then I can begin sewing.

See, nothing is ever done just the way the pattern is designed with me. I have to tweak it to make it my own. Thus the NOT historically accurate disclaimer.
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Offline uhurainmi

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2008, 04:21:16 PM »
 Escarlata,
I am thinking of making just such a garment. I think I know what you are talking about. Would you be so kind as to post a photo?

Good luck with your surcoat.

Cindy
Fortunately, ah keep mah feathers numbered...for just such an emergency.

Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2008, 04:47:29 PM »
YAY!!! I hoped it would work that way. Thanks, Kate, for the confirmation and the chuckle.

OK, the next phase of this project won't happen until sometime Friday when the seamstress who's making the underdress (strange fabric choice, my machine just won't handle it) brings it over for a fitting. We'll make the corresponding "adjustments" to the overdress and then I can begin sewing.

See, nothing is ever done just the way the pattern is designed with me. I have to tweak it to make it my own. Thus the NOT historically accurate disclaimer.

OK, you'll have to tell me about this fabric and your machine?  Why won't they play nice together?  What is the fabric?  And which machine do you have?

And as for not following the pattern...  Well, WHO does THAT???   :o :o

 ;D ;D ;D

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2008, 09:49:06 PM »
Cindy, the pattern I'm working with is the Burda 7977. There are quite a few members who made the outfit last fall but I never got around to getting mine done. I don't know if any of the pictures survived the hackattack. Maybe someone will post a picture of their completed dress or point us to the correct thread to see them.

Kate, you're getting all the confessions from me today. The poor machine in question is a Singer Student machine, very basic, but tough as nails. I love it but ... I'm not good to it or with it. If the material stretches at all, I end up with a huge mess. Plus I don't have the right needles for this material. The material I chose stretches ... a lot! Enough that we're not going to have the back lacing on it, it'll just go on over my head.
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Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2008, 06:20:00 AM »
Darling, ya GOTTA be nice to your sewing machine!  Then it will play nice with you...  Give it a good clean every time you use it, check the manual for lubrication advice (it may not have any, in which case DO NOT OIL!  Leave lubrication to the service engineer), and use a new needle of the correct type and size for every project.  Tough fabrics may require more needles per project as they do get blunt.  If you hit a pin or otherwise damage the needle, change it right away.  Take the machine for servicing every year - more often if you use it lots!

For stretch fabric, you MUST use a stretch needle of the correct type for the fabric (well, that goes for ALL fabrics, really!).  Ball point/knit needles are for T shirt type knits, Stretch & Super Stretch for knits with Lycra/Spandex.  Use the right size needle for the weight of fabric.  For woven stretch fabrics, you might need a microtex needle.  ALWAYS use good quality needles.  I like Schmetz.

If you can, lessen the presser foot pressure for working with finer fabrics of all types, and get a walking foot (like this, for those who have never seen one: http://www.clotilde.com/images/products/closeups/4212_1.jpg)  A walking foot has built-in feed dogs that grip the upper layer of fabric that's traveling through the sewing machine and feed it through the machine at the same time as the machine's feed dogs, which grip the underside of the fabric. This helps keep the layers from shifting apart as they move through the sewing machine.  It's especially useful with stretch fabrics, things with pile, and multiple layers.  I also use it to help keep checks and stripes lined up...

For stretch fabrics and those that are inherently stretchy even without Lycra, and for bias cut things, I always use stretch seam techniques.  Ignore the stretch stitches on the machine: they tend to be slow, lumpy, thread-hungry, and not very stretchy!  Use a small stitch and a narrow zigzag, like this: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Bridesmaid_horror_story/stitchingjpg.jpg  Look at the RIGHT half of the picture, where I replaced the original paler stitching.  It's not easy to see as the thread is a really good match!  Use a 3 step zigzag to neaten the edges.

Never give up!  Never surrender!  It's fabric.  You REALLY gonna let something with fewer brain cells than an amoeba get the better of you?   :-* :-*

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #11 on: September 04, 2008, 08:47:18 AM »
*chuckling* I'm not letting it win, just choosing the battles I want to fight. Kathleen, my seamstress, does some wonderful work for me at a very reasonable price. That leaves me time to do the simple straight line, easy fabric sewing and to work on FaireNews.

Went and looked, it's a Singer Graduate, model 6705. My Mom picked it up 20 some odd years ago at a school surplus auction. No manual, missing one foot which is compensated for by a block of wood in the sewing table, etc, but it does what I ask of it. It needs a good service badly but our only shop went out of business. I've not been able to find another less than an hour drive away and then they want to keep it for at least a week. So I blow it out with canned air and hope for the best.
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Offline Anna Iram

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #12 on: September 04, 2008, 10:17:19 AM »
I hear the thud of half a dozen seamstresses hitting the floor in a dead faint from that canned air comment. ;D

Esc, it may be thata longer search will bring up an exact manual, but if not perhaps this will help you with the basics:


http://tinyurl.com/62d522

Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #13 on: September 04, 2008, 11:12:34 AM »
 ;D ;D  Yeah, like someone once said, suck, don't blow!  ;D ;D

I use a gadget that fits the Dyson, like this: http://www.centralvacuumfactory.com/images/AT421-2.jpg

SweUSA has a 6704 manual you can buy...  Just scroll down.  http://www.sewusa.com/Sewing_Machine_Manuals/Singer_Sewing_Machine.htm  It may be worth it as they may not be all that different.  Yay!  Another site says that's the one to use, if you scroll through THEIR list!     :D :D

Nothing wrong with old sewing machines.  I got plenty of them!   ;D
« Last Edit: September 04, 2008, 11:13:45 AM by Kate XXXXXX »

Offline uhurainmi

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #14 on: September 04, 2008, 08:50:38 PM »
Thanks Escarlata,

Duh! I just looked it up. That is EXACTLY the kind of thing I want to make but had no pattern. I must be in tune with the universe at least a little bit, things have been coming TO ME like this, a lot lately.

Cindy
Fortunately, ah keep mah feathers numbered...for just such an emergency.

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #15 on: September 09, 2008, 09:06:32 AM »
Update:

Kathleen brought the underdress for a fitting yesterday afternoon. We decided the width of the back needs adjusting, apparently I'm fairly narrow through the back. The length was almost perfect so she'll be putting the hem in and I expect to have it this afternoon. I'm looking forward to having this outfit for the winter, in spite of the modified sleeves, as the materials are warm. Yummy for warm clothing.

We adjusted the neckline of the overdress to match the mods I'd requested to the underdress and I sewed it up last night. Having seen how the under needed adjusting in the back, I wasn't surprised when I put the over on and found that I'll have to make essentially the same changes.  What did surprise me was where the bottom of the side openings fall. They are much lower than I expected and much lower than I want. When Kathleen brings the under back today, I'm going to ask her advise on methods to adjust that. I think I know what's necessary but want a more experienced seamstress to take a look at it with me.

Anyway, things are progressing and I'm looking forward to how this will turn out. It'll be different, that's for sure.
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Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2008, 09:14:36 PM »
Update:

All the adjustments have been made, it now fits the way I wanted it to. Had help getting the hem pinned up today (one of these days I've got to get a dress form) and I'll tackle the hem tomorrow. Then there's nothing left but trimming all the strings and packing.

New dress to debut at MnRF on Fest Friday. Here's hoping for the best.

The outfit won't actually be complete until I get to see Ladyfair and her other half (Hi Dave!) in February. They're going to make the finishing touches for me, just a bit of bling.
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Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2008, 02:10:25 AM »
Glad you got that all sorted out.   :)

Do we get to see pix now, or do we have to wait until February?  (If so I shall pout!   ;) )

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2008, 06:20:23 AM »
Not til February, Kate, but at least until after the weekend. Camera's already packed for the trip.
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Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #19 on: September 23, 2008, 06:56:29 AM »
OK, pouting on hold...   ;D

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #20 on: October 13, 2008, 10:50:40 AM »
Would you believe that I've only seen three pictures of me in the dress and none of them really show it.

MG caught me giving her fella a kilt check, you can see the colors but not much else:



*chuckling* The other two are pretty much the same and one of them would get this thread thrown to John's Inn. And, no, it wasn't a kilt check in that one, but a banana *shrugs* would you expect anything less?

The surcoat will get some work, it's ... sloppy is really the only word to describe how it looks and feels. I know it's not period accurate, and I don't know how it will look, but I'm seriously considering putting some darts in it. As it is, I do a ducktail (folded over pleat like men do to the backs of the shirts when tucking them  in) in the front and back after I get the belt on. I think I'm just going to sew those in. I'm also going to figure out a way to attach the belt (lobster claws sewn on, I think) at the back waist to keep it in the position I want.
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Offline Anna Iram

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #21 on: October 16, 2008, 09:41:19 PM »
I had the same experince with mine. After wearing a bodice that cinches and keeps everything in place, it feels odd to wear something so loose. Mine, too, shifted about on my shoulders as I moved about, so the neckline always felt a bit askew.

My thoughts, for their worth, was to wear a more form fitting under dress so the looseness of the overdress reveled the figure beneath. If the chemise/underdress is loose it looses it's lines entirely.

Do you know the impact this gown had when it first became a fashion? It was considered the devils creation because it was so provocative to see "inside" of a womans gown .  :)

Offline Escarlata

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #22 on: October 17, 2008, 06:35:02 AM »
My underdress fits very nicely *chuckling* the material has spandex in it. And can you imagine the scandal with my modified sleeves? They are a bat wing style, long and full enough to keep me warm but open and loose enough to give lots of little glimpses. And we'll not even imagine which stake I'd have been burned on for the adjustments to the neckline *wicked grin*

I remembered seeing the problem you had with the shoulders slipping around at Ft Myers last year, Anna, and added a button to the top of each shoulder seam on the underdress. The overdress shoulder seams were left open the width of the buttons in the center of each seam. Slip the buttons in and the whole thing became one unit. It came together nicely and I was pleased with the outcome on that part. The buttons have the added benefit of allowing me to attach my pin tabs if I decide I want to wear them.
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Offline JaimieEnchanted

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #23 on: March 11, 2015, 09:58:57 AM »
I sincerely wish I had found these comments when I started making this pattern! :)  I am on a beginner's dressmaking course in England and the instructions were not easy to follow -they seem to assume a certain level of knowledge!  When the pattern said 'easy', I thought it meant for anyone, but it seems to be something which is probably easy if you are a more experienced seamstress, rather than a notice needlewoman like me! :D  I had the same issue as Esc with the extension pieces, which transpired to be pattern extension pieces (to be stuck onto another bit of pattern, before cutting out)! Sadly, it took me a while to figure that out on my own!  Thank you very much for the questions, comments and guidance here - it's a massive help  :-*  I am still in the middle of making mine - facings are sewn on and edge stitched, I am about to set in the sleeves, which fills me with dread, but hope I will get there! 

Offline isabelladangelo

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #24 on: March 11, 2015, 10:31:53 AM »
Just an FYI, people have been born since this thread was created and are now old enough to at least read most of it.   Please be careful when resurrecting old threads like this. 

Offline operafantomet

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #25 on: March 11, 2015, 03:41:56 PM »
Just an FYI, people have been born since this thread was created and are now old enough to at least read most of it.   Please be careful when resurrecting old threads like this.
I find it opposite - instead of having nine threads about the exact same topic/pattern/whatever in a forum, I find it more convenient to gather everything in one thread and read from finish to start.

Offline mollymishap

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #26 on: March 11, 2015, 10:15:46 PM »
LOL!  I got a good chuckle out of re-reading it, though it is quite the blast from the past.  I remember the hack of the old forum like it was yesterday...except it was 7 (gasp!) years ago. 

But anyway, back to the topic at hand:  JaimieEnchanted!  Welcome to the forum!!!  Please post pictures of your process, it may well be that others have had/will have similar experiences as yours and who knows?  Maybe your work will help some other seamstress down the line as well!

Gem, were you one of the people who was working on this pattern?  Maybe you can weigh in as well, since Kate seems to be AWOL.  :(   

Offline gem

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #27 on: March 12, 2015, 11:15:36 AM »
Gem, were you one of the people who was working on this pattern?  Maybe you can weigh in as well, since Kate seems to be AWOL.  :(

I was not! And I'm surprised that this thread is entirely new to me! (Not so very surprised; I was AWOL from pretty much everything in Sept of 2008 due to family/work commitments.) But like the others said, it's like a whole new thread! LOL

Offline Lady Rosalind

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Re: Burda 7977 Sideless Surcoat - Revisited
« Reply #28 on: April 01, 2015, 09:45:48 AM »
Gem, were you one of the people who was working on this pattern?  Maybe you can weigh in as well, since Kate seems to be AWOL.  :(

I was not! And I'm surprised that this thread is entirely new to me! (Not so very surprised; I was AWOL from pretty much everything in Sept of 2008 due to family/work commitments.) But like the others said, it's like a whole new thread! LOL

LOL, my first thought when I started reading this was that we had gotten hacked again, then I looked at the dates. Wow! I can't believe how long ago that was!

 

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