captain's coat

[Mythrin]

Kate - I would have to probably stick to the trim solution to hide the seam because my machine does not have all the nifty stitches yours does.  I am particularly jealous of the eyelet stitch.  huuuuh (translate as a big sigh sound)

Gem - I am with Kate on that one, that is a nice jacket and I like the drape of the back skirting.  Going to have to try and get that one too particularly after your recommendation on the instructions.  Maybe the difference is the way we interpret info or the technical writer who made them up...who knows?

[gem]

Maybe the difference is the way we interpret info?

Ok, I think it's a pretty safe bet that there's no way that you and Kate could both interpret the same info that would leave a raw edge visible... and then I'd come along and somehow manage to get a finished edge!!  I'm fairly sure that's impossible, and probably the sign of the coming apocalypse! LOL  Now, ask me to interpret *ordinary* instructions in completely the opposite way of the rest of the universe, you got it. 

[Kate XXXXXX]

Oh, there are AT LEAST two different ways to get a very similar look using totally different construction methods, AND be completely period accurate with both!  Sometimes different methods are developed to get a specific look in a particular type of fabric.  Thicker fabrics need a thinner, less bulky construction.  There is NO WAY you could get that sharp a finish with a Melton cloth if it had seam allowances.  It would also leave an uncomfortable lump in the small of the back.  On the other hand, it would leave a fine silk open to complete destruction to do the same with that, so...  Horses for courses, innit?   

The Barathea frays, where Melton doesn't, so I developed a 'hand stitched' look with the machine to give the neat finish I wanted (no braid going on the pleat top here - customer's choice), along with the strength to last for several years of pretty constant use.  It also kept the bulk down in an area that would still have been awkward to clean finish on the inside.

Just to add to the mix, while hunting for a decent picture of the back of Jack Sparrow's coat, I came across this on another site...



It would appear to be a French pattern.  I found it here: http://www.yvettes.net/FutureProjectsPage.html  If you look at that center back seam, not only are there pleats, but there is also a GAP where the JP Ryan coat has a mere slit with a raw edge!  My engineering genes are trying to work that one out...

Shall we try this one next?   

[Taffy Saltwater]

A note on the above style skirt which is rounded & full - use a solid fabric.  I made one w/large medallions & the medallions ended up going sideways due to the cut of the skirt.