Gallery of In Progress Projects

[gem]

It was on the muslin, so I just cut a new piece and tweaked the pattern.

If the pressing doesn't fix it, I don't think anything would hurt--particularly if you're already committed to taking it apart. But I'm not sure it would help. You might have better luck taking the skirting entirely apart and trimming it down, shaving off some of the stretched-out edges.  Wait, here's a question that just occurred to me--did you trim your seam allowances really well before turning? That can make a huge difference in getting anything to lie flat and crisp. Very important in pieces that are turned!

***
I finally had some time yesterday to get started on my FIL's doublet. I got the whole thing cut out (it took ages; who knew a doublet had so many flippin' pieces?!) and the gold/black side assembled.



Here's a closeup of the fabrics and trim, because apparently it's hard to photograph light gold fabric on pale beige carpet!

(It looks slightly crooked b/c of a small round-back adjustment I had to do, which makes the contrast seam slightly arched.)

And I did some test layouts for the suede trim on the blue side:



That's an almost-navy brushed twill, and I love how the suede trim (left over from Milord's Gimli tunic) looks with it. I haven't figured out how I want the trim in the back yet. The skirting in back will have a vent, so I'll probably repeat the angle from the front tab... but I'm not sure where on the back of the body I should add some. I am open to suggestions!

[Ser Niall]

It was on the muslin, so I just cut a new piece and tweaked the pattern.

If the pressing doesn't fix it, I don't think anything would hurt--particularly if you're already committed to taking it apart. But I'm not sure it would help. You might have better luck taking the skirting entirely apart and trimming it down, shaving off some of the stretched-out edges.  Wait, here's a question that just occurred to me--did you trim your seam allowances really well before turning? That can make a huge difference in getting anything to lie flat and crisp. Very important in pieces that are turned!

Nope, I haven't trimmed any of the seam allowances yet.  I think I'll go ahead and trim them up, and then press like crazy to see if things flatten out.  The flounce looks more pronounced when lying on the table then when I actually have the doublet on, so I'm probably not going to go so far as to take it all apart unless absolutely necessary.

Took another picture of it hanging, looks a little crisper.  Although now that I look at it I can kind of see where the fabric is puckering a little.

***
I finally had some time yesterday to get started on my FIL's doublet. I got the whole thing cut out (it took ages; who knew a doublet had so many flippin' pieces?!) and the gold/black side assembled.


(It looks slightly crooked b/c of a small round-back adjustment I had to do, which makes the contrast seam slightly arched.)

Too funny, I was looking at that exact same trim to use for my next doublet project (the original black/gold one I had been talking about before).  I saw it at Joann's, but it was $4.99 a yard!!!  Did you end up finding it somewhere cheaper?  I'll probably wait until I can get my hands on another one of those 50% off coupons before buying.

[gem]

You know, I don't really remember--that trim has been in my stash for *ages,* and I have about 10 yards of it. This is its second use; I also put it on a rain hood I made Milord about 5-6 years ago. Because it's wider, it won't flex around curves, so I can only apply it where it can be sewn down relatively straight and flat. I'm having to rethink my trim plans for the shoulder tabs!

I'm assuming your skirting is lined, yes? If it's already sewn to the doublet body, you'll have to take it off in order to turn it inside-out and trim away the seam allowances that are inside it, otherwise you'll never get it to flatten out. Since the bottom is on an angle, the seam allowances are actually longer than the space they're currently filling, which is why they're causing that bulk/rippling. I'd just trim them right down to the stitching that holds the trim on, and see if that does the trick.

[Ser Niall]

You know, I don't really remember--that trim has been in my stash for *ages,* and I have about 10 yards of it. This is its second use; I also put it on a rain hood I made Milord about 5-6 years ago. Because it's wider, it won't flex around curves, so I can only apply it where it can be sewn down relatively straight and flat. I'm having to rethink my trim plans for the shoulder tabs!

I'm assuming your skirting is lined, yes? If it's already sewn to the doublet body, you'll have to take it off in order to turn it inside-out and trim away the seam allowances that are inside it, otherwise you'll never get it to flatten out. Since the bottom is on an angle, the seam allowances are actually longer than the space they're currently filling, which is why they're causing that bulk/rippling. I'd just trim them right down to the stitching that holds the trim on, and see if that does the trick.

I did clip the corners, and notch every couple of inches along the edge where the outside fabric joins with the lining before turning the skirting. I thought you were talking about the seam where the skirting is stitched to the doublet body, that hasn't been trimmed or clipped at all.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Looking super Sir Niall and gem.

I have the same trim as you do, gem!

Another Captain Teague coat for a Minnesota Client nwho is getting married on 15 September at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival. Captain Barbossa is the Best Man.

Progress so far...
I still have the detail work on one side to do as well as sew the cording around the added leaf pieces.



I will be working on this while I am out of town for several days at Bristol, then a Twins Game, finished o0ff with the Pyrate Exhibit at the Saint Paul Science museum. More photos will follow.

[Ser Niall]

I spent some time pressing the skirting on the doublet, and it's improved somewhat.  I'm going to leave it as is right now, and continue with making the slops.  Once the entire outfit is completed and I can see how it all looks together I can make a decision on whether or not to take the skirting out and add interfacing to increase the stiffness.

[Wickedvox]

Keep on truckin' Ser Niall, I have faith in you! To quote Tim Gunn, "Make it work!" 

Kathleen--That's going to look amazing!

Gem--as always, LOVE IT! Your FIL is going to look so very handsome!

[gem]

Thanks, all! I got the jacquard trim onto the shoulder tabs last night. Surprisingly, I was able to steam the trim into the proper curve, so I didn't have to choose an alternate (although I did tear apart my stash to find something else I could use! LOL).

And after some pondering & experimentation, I've decided to put the suede trim in a nice chevron, mid-back, on the back of the doublet. I just need to get some topstitching thread that remotely resembles the shade of brown in the suede. Six spools of brown thread, and none of them--not even the one I used the last time on this very suede trim!!--is right. 

[isabelladangelo]

Cute!     Don't forget, second hand stuff is totally period - and sewing up old holes or using patches is perfectly period for a lower middle class look.   Do you have a bumroll?  That might be a simple fix for the petticoat issue if you are just looking for a fuller skirted look.   And they are ridiculously cheap to make.  All those scraps that are too small to do anything with but you save anyway?  Awesome bumroll filling. 

My very mundane but oh so necessary project I'm working on right now at 2 am.    (Couldn't sleep!)

 

It's my raincoat!   The pattern is one I drafted myself - I wanted a really big hood because I normally have my hair back in a bun - the way most hoods are made today are for short haired people who never accessorize properly.     If I want my hood to work and cover my head, I need to make it BIG.   I need to attach the sleeves and add the buttons but that's it. 

[Wickedvox]

Silvastah--I love it!! Like Isabella said, second hand is period!

Isabella--you'll have to give me pointers on sewing that raincoat fabric; I sewed oilcloth a few weeks ago and it was a nightmare! I *love* that raincoat, and I'm with you on the hood

[isabelladangelo]

Thanks!   I used laminated cotton which is slightly easier than oil cloth.   Just sew up the lining as a full, unhemmed garment, then sew up the coat itself.  You'll have the fabric lying laminated side to laminated side while you sew so the machine thinks it's only a very thick cotton.  Leave the sleeves off both the lining and the outer fabric.   Sew up the garment all the way around, laminated side to facing lining side.  Pull it right side out through either of the armsyces.   The sleeves are done by sewing the trapezoids at the cuffs together and then sewing up the long seam to make a tube of both the lining and the fashion fabric.   Pull that through so you have a sleeve and then attach it.  This way, the machine itself never actually touches the laminated side - it just sews right through it. 

[Wickedvox]

Thanks!   I used laminated cotton which is slightly easier than oil cloth.   Just sew up the lining as a full, unhemmed garment, then sew up the coat itself.  You'll have the fabric lying laminated side to laminated side while you sew so the machine thinks it's only a very thick cotton.  Leave the sleeves off both the lining and the outer fabric.   Sew up the garment all the way around, laminated side to facing lining side.  Pull it right side out through either of the armsyces.   The sleeves are done by sewing the trapezoids at the cuffs together and then sewing up the long seam to make a tube of both the lining and the fashion fabric.   Pull that through so you have a sleeve and then attach it.  This way, the machine itself never actually touches the laminated side - it just sews right through it. 

Niiiiiiice!! Great technique! Thank you!

[LadySeasan]

Not the best picture. but the italian/tudor inspired gown (such a mashup) in progress. 

[Wickedvox]

Wow, that was *fast!* They look great!

[LadySeasan]

lol, yeah I did them last night to get them out of way. knowing me, i would have waited until the last minute.