Blackwork on a constructed shirt

[Sorcha]

All~
I love look of Blackwork accents and mediocre at needlepoint so I thought I'd try my hand at it on an chemise.

I found great patterns by doing a search here and finding this link:
http://www.geocities.com/monstonitrus/a_and_s/blackwork/blackwork.html   Thanks Sagittarius!

So here's my question...  What's the easiest way to transfer those samples onto an existing sleeve or collar?
The samples are on graphs and that would work great for needlepoint fabric but how about a collar in linen??

[tigerlilly]

I think in period people used to actually count the threads of the fabric they were stitching on.  If you prefer to not go blind, you can try waste canvas.  It's sort of a canvas mesh grid that you stitch over (being careful not to pierce the threads of the grid) and then pull the canvas threads out when you're done. I've done a chemise this way, and it worked great.  Experiment on scraps first until you get the hang of stitching over the canvas. 

You could also try printing the pattern out on iron-on transfer paper, transfer the pattern to the sleeve or collar, and then stitch over it.  Just be sure the transfer lines are thin enough to be completely covered by your thread.  haven't personally tried this, but it should work.

[Muffin]

Sorcha, talk to Goody!! She is awesomely fantastic at Blackwork!!!

[gem]

Any sort of embroidery will be 100% easier if you do it on the fabric *before* cutting it out or making it into anything.  It's just more manageable.  Working on finished garments adds a level of PITA that's just not necessary, in this needlewoman's opinion.    (I've been doing embroidery for almost 30 years--yipes!--and I *still* curse and swear at working on finished pieces.)

The patterns you link to are for counted blackwork, which are wonderful if the fabric you're working on is meant for counted needlework.  For a finished chemise, where you're not counting the threads of the fabric while you stitch, you'll want a pattern for surface embroidery (not-counted).  Crisp geometrics in blackwork tend to work better if you can count the fabric threads, ensuring that each stitch is a consistent length.  You might look instead for patterns for surface embroidery blackwork, which will be curvier in appearance.

What I would actually recommend, which might be the very, very easiest thing for you, is to stitch a *strip* of blackwork for your collar and cuffs, and apply that to the existing garment.  That way you can use a nice, say, 28-count linen (which is a good size for those new to counted-thread embroidery--not too large or too small.  Look in the needlework section at Michael's, Hobby Lobby, or JoAnn.  You'll probably find the following brands: DMC, Wichelt or Zweigart, Charles Craft, and MGC Textiles.  Any will work.), use the counted blackwork charts you've picked out, do the stitching, then apply the stitching to the finished chemise.  This is what one of my needlework buddies (on cast at Scarby) did for her court ensemble a couple of years ago.

Good luck!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

http://www.blackworkarchives.com/bw_bord.html

The source for Blackwork designs.

Also try http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ There are some how to's regarding to Blackwork.

Good luck!!

[isabelladangelo]

In period, they actually drew the designs on to the fabric.  Just use a pencil and have fun.   

[gem]

Not just in period!  Sketching the image onto the cloth is the first step in *lots* of surface (non-counted) embroidery.

[Cilean]

Hello you are going to love me!

Check out these from the Extreme Costuming.
https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/home.php?c=22&d=185&w=24&r=Y

No you can do several things, you can use carbon paper or copy paper which is pretty simple. you can use a transfer pen and paper you copy on one side and then you rub it and it goes onto the smock.  You can also make a copy of the pattern and then if you iron it onto the place you want to use the blackwork on.

Cilean

[gem]

Cilean, I *do* love you! LOL

Do you know if anyone else carries those patterns?  I like RH for research, but I refuse to give them any of my money.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Here's a handy idea that I used for woodburning designs onto leather...

Take Tracing paper or waxed paper, trace over the design, then use carbon paper under the tracing paper to draw the design onto the fabric that is to be embroidered.

There is so much to learn from these boards!!  I am amazed with the brilliance of all of the minds here.

[Adriana Rose]

Not to take from the discussion here but how would Blackwork look beaded? I would love to do it.. I just was wondering if it would work..

[Cilean]

Cilean, I *do* love you! LOL
Do you know if anyone else carries those patterns?  I like RH for research, but I refuse to give them any of my money.

The actual person is from Extreme Costuming
http://extremecostuming.com

I would suggest you speak with her since they are her designs and perhaps you can purchase from her instead of RH.

Hope that helps!
Cilean
**Feeling the LOVE! LOL **

[Master James]

Here are a number of blackwork sites that I've found quite helpful.

http://www.prettyimpressivestuff.com/blackwork.htm
http://blackworkarchives.com/
http://www.angelfire.com/zine/kiarapanther/embroidery/bw.html
http://www.skinnersisters.com/

Enjoy!

[Dayna]

Blackwork often included beads or spangles, so I don't see why you couldn't do the same.  As for how do you do it, you count, yes, count, that's what magnifying glasses are for.  And after a while you get pretty darn good at knowing how long your stitch should be so you cheat a little.  Most of my work is on 28 or 30 threads to the inch, that's 15 stitches per inch, which is tiny, another reason for using a magnifying glass.

Dayna

[Goody]

Sorcha, talk to Goody!! She is awesomely fantastic at Blackwork!!!

Well, I wouldn't go that far but Ive tried my hand at a few items. As i don't have a lightbox I taped my pattern (copied and blown up from blackwork archives) to my glass dinig rm table. Then i put a buffet lamp underneath and traced using a sewing pencil/pen.

If your fabric is thin enough  to see the pattern through you could do the same. my only regret on my chemise sleeves is that I made the stitches bigger and they catch on jewelry and such.

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

Sorcha, talk to Goody!! She is awesomely fantastic at Blackwork!!!

Well, I wouldn't go that far but Ive tried my hand at a few items. As i don't have a lightbox I taped my pattern (copied and blown up from blackwork archives) to my glass dinig rm table. Then i put a buffet lamp underneath and traced using a sewing pencil/pen.

If your fabric is thin enough  to see the pattern through you could do the same. my only regret on my chemise sleeves is that I made the stitches bigger and they catch on jewelry and such.

I agree that Goody is incredible with a needle.  We saw her chemise at Bristol this summer, and I was blown away.  It is absolutely gorgeous.  As is all the other garb she has made.  She is a fantastic seamstress!

[Cilean]

So I think if you pick apart the side seams of this done Shirt you can put your design onto the shirt without worrying about the 3D effect.
You can then spread out the sleeves and add the design, then use either silk like Splendor Silk Floss.  There are many floss out there and you can of course use the stuff from Michaels as well.  So there is no real need for you to 'have silk'.
http://treenwaysilks.com/mini_skeins.html

You can also add to the cuffs by doing the embroidery and adding it to the current cuff.

Also if you have some extra money??

Check out this Janet Arnold's Book on Shirts and Smocks and Neck stuff has just been published!!  You have to order from the UK but heck? It is so worth it, mine arrived while I was in Alaska, so I just now had the chance to look through it.  It is stupendous! YUMMY and this one has color pictures!!!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Fashion-construction-neckwear-accessories/dp/0333570820/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1227762722&sr=8-1




Good Luck,
Cilean

[operafantomet]

I second the suggestion of "Patterns of Fashion 4". It's a lovely, lovely book, with lots of nice closeup pictures.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

If  this newest Janet Arnold book is not on Amazon US or Half Price.com by next March, someone I know is going to England next March. I will have her get a copy for me. The Corset making book looks interesting as well.

Hmm!!  So many books, so little money!!!

[operafantomet]

If  this newest Janet Arnold book is not on Amazon US or Half Price.com by next March, someone I know is going to England next March. I will have her get a copy for me. The Corset making book looks interesting as well.

Hmm!!  So many books, so little money!!!

This link might be of some comfort?
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/workbox.htm

[Tygrkat]

This may belong in another place {if so, my apologies, and feel free to move it, mods} but since I got the pattern I used from this thread, I thought I'd share my results here! 







This is my first attempt at blackwork. I think I've read that it should ideally look the same front and back - it doesn't even come close  - and counting stitches was out as the fabric I used was just leftover from another project. 


The pattern I used is here : http://www.blackworkarchives.com/bw_pome.html .


I traced a pattern onto the fabric directly and then stitched over it...I know that isn't really how you're supposed to do it, but I really haven't done any embroidery in over 10 years (and didn't do much to speak of before then...lol!) and I just wanted to get my fingers used to those motions again...it was LOADS of fun and I'm looking forward toward improving my technique (after another 'refresher' piece or two!  }

[gem]

I traced a pattern onto the fabric directly and then stitched over it...I know that isn't really how you're supposed to do it

Lovely!  Well done!  In surface embroidery (vs counted work like cross stitch), you absolutely DO mark the pattern onto the fabric first.  In period, they used a technique called "pouncing," where they had a little cloth bag full of some kind of dusty substance, and the pattern was perforated.  They'd lay the pattern over the fabric, and gently tap the bag-of-dust against the stencil pattern, so there was a faint dotted impression of the pattern on the cloth.

[Tygrkat]

Thank You Gem!  I am quite proud to have completed it so soon after I started it (I finished it in a couple of sittings) especially given there are incomplete projects (most from last winter ) looming in my closet...


"Pouncing" (reminds me of my kitten ^_^) sounds like a great way to transfer patterns...I wonder what one would use as a modern equivalent?

I taped the pattern to the back of the fabric (already on the hoop) and shined my husband's giagantic flash light behind it ( and held it with my knees  ) and drew the pattern on with a fine-point marker...there has to be a much easier way...LOL!!

[gem]

Well, that's how I do it, too (altho' I use the sliding glass door and a bright sunny day. LOL  Milord got a light box for Christmas, though....).  I know you can still buy pouncing supplies from needlework suppliers.  A modern option is to do an iron-on transfer--they sell iron-on transfer pens/pencils at JoAnn.