what is all included

[firefairy]

I want to create a noble dress. what i need to know is what other pieces will need to be made to go under, over, around, or through. to make it as H/A as possible.
your help will be welcome

[gem]

You didn't say what period/region, but here's a good start for the pieces to a complete Elizabethan ensemble:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/overview.html

Those will vary somewhat depending on time and place, but that should get you started.

[Mythrin]

Gem is right, the time and place makes a big difference in the "silhouette" that is desirable.  The more extreme the silhouette the more likely you will need a corset to change the shape of the torso and farthingales to change the shape of the hip/skirts.  An example is Tudor, which wants a very smooth flat shape to the torso with all the size and emphasis being low on the body - huge skirts, huge lower sleeves as apposed to the early Elizabethan period that elongated the torso with a "V" and wanted the shoulders to look larger and at the end of the Elizabethan period to have the hips turned into a "table top" practically, the elongation of the torso was very extreme and the ruff became a wagon wheel.   Generally Germans and Italians in the same period as the Tudors were less worried about changing the shape of the body and the natural bust line was apparent and the skirting was closer to the body. 

If you are going for one of the styles that changes the body's shape you will need to start with the underwear in order to get the fit of the gown correct.

[Julianne]

well gosh...It also includes how much you care to spend and how much time you want to devote to being so "historically accurate".

I feel myself every inch the noble Lady and quite well entitled to the Historically Accurate given certain time periods and also certain Faires...(some are more given to the "entitlement" of H/A than others) depending on what I'm wearing.

Technically being "historically accurate" would include complete hand stiching and materials (everything from cloth to colour to undergarment parts) that may not be readily available.

Time period of the renaissance era is also a particular instance.....1450-1600....quite a generous fashion era and which country do you want to represent?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Noble ensembles usually are made up of the following items..........

Corset- To give the look of the period being recreated or replicated. For the "silhouete". Corsets can be tabbed or untabbed depending on what one wants.

Farthingale- The underslip necessary to give the skirts fullness.

Chemise- With a high neck and ruffs at the wrist and neck or low necked with a drawstring tie. Can be long to the knees or short past the waist. Some are worn open to show some skin if a woman in single or closed if she is married if going for Historical correctness.

Bumroll- A stuffed cresent shaped undergarment worn under or over the farthingale to give support for the skirts.


Partlet- A shorter version of the chemise that ties just under the bust line.

Under skirt with forepart- Worn over the farthingale. The forepart can be embellished with trims and beads to get the desired look one is going for.

A Forepart embellished with  trims and pearls.

Full Overskirt-The Overskirt can be a seperate piece or attached to the bodice. This example is a seperate piece that clasps in the front, cartridge pleated, hemmed, has added trims and pearls.

Bodice-Worn over the corset. Made to be worn with detachable sleeves or without, depending on the warmth of the day when at faire. Shoulder and waist treatments usually adorn a bodice. There are loops or rings sewn inside the armhole area to tie the sleeves to. The bodice is underlined with two layers of a heavy cotton canvas Duck for additional support/shape and fully lined.

Lined Detachable sleeves- A seperate piece with ties and filigree aglet ends. Sleeves can match the Bodice fabric or that of the Forepart if one desires.

Headware- A hat or French Hood or some kind worn with a netted snood or coif finishes an ensemble. A French Hood with Drape.. A two tiered FRench Hood with Drape later added..

Italian Bonnet with Hatband and Plumes-

Then there are other accessories like Jeweled Belts.

Feather fans are the Elizabethan version of Air Condiditoning that can hang froma  belt or from rings sewn onto the waistband of the Overskirt that is hidden by the bodice tabs.

Making a Noblewoman's ensemble does take a bit of time and money. Budget is important as to how much you are willing to spend. Even when all the materials needed for a Noble ensemble are bought on sale and with coupons  can total upwards to $300 or more.

Hope this helps you.

[Master James]

I think everyone has covered everything very well however as you may have seen in another post, a tabbed corset is probably the way to go since the tabs ride over the hips and prevent the boning from digging into the hips.  The biggest thing with fabrics if you want to come as close as possible to H/A is to obviously avoid polyesters, rayons and the such and stay away from prints.  You want something that is woven with the pattern on it not printed on it.  The only "print" that is H/A for the 15-16 centuries that I know of is embossed velvet.  This is where a pattern like flowers or geometric shapes are pressed into the velvet.  Also you want to be careful with any fabric that you get that you avoid backing as that will prevent the fabric from breathing at all and will be like wearing a rubber suit, which is obviously NOT good.  Have fun making it an we'd love to see it when its done!

[Miranda]

  You want something that is woven with the pattern on it not printed on it.  The only "print" that is H/A for the 15-16 centuries that I know of is embossed velvet.  This is where a pattern like flowers or geometric shapes are pressed into the velvet.

They did the same thing with silks.  It was called "stamping" and was accomplished with hot iron stamps in the desired shape or design.

In all honesty, for a first gown, I would recommend a solid color for your primary gown fabric with any patterned fabrics for the accent pieces like foreparts and sleeves.  It helps avoid the "I'm-A-Couch effect" and it makes it easier to augment your wardrobe with additional pieces like foreparts and sleeves in the future.

[Cilean]

I want to create a noble dress. what i need to know is what other pieces will need to be made to go under, over, around, or through. to make it as H/A as possible.
your help will be welcome

Would this not be better answered in the sewing section? If you look you will see a questionnaire I just put up regarding making garb! I think it would be helpful for you!

Thanks!

Cilean

[firefairy]

Thank you everyone that replied.
I have made several simple pieces before and have a huge stash of fabrics.
with any luck I should be able to construct what I want and make coordinating garb for my three sons.

[gem]

Oh, you didn't say you would be MAKING this! 

Join us in the Sewing forum for tons of knowledge and lots of wicked enabling.

...And we want pictures.