Basics for choosing fabric

[DonaCatalina]

This is not meant to be a snarky thread, so please don't make it so. This is just some simple suggestions for people with less experience to consider when chossing fabrics. Please feel free to add anything helpful.

1. Does it feel good in your hand?
   If it is shiny and pretty but feels scratchy and stiff when you hold it, it's probably going to uncomfortable to wear.

2. Is it polyester?
   No matter how nice it feels in the fabric shop, once you're at Faire, polyester will feel like you're wearing a plastic garbage bag.

3. Does it remind you of your uncle's old recliner?
    If it makes you think that, chances are it will make you look like your uncle's old recliner.

4. Is it a natural fabric?
     Fibers like cotton, linen and silk are cooler and more comfortable to wear,improving with age. And contrary to modern usage, shirts and chemises were not regularly ironed. As often as not, they doubled as bed clothes.

[Aiacha]

- Is there a plastic backing?
     Seems like a no-brainer, but remember the remnants that you may pick up which are rolled up.  I had a wonderful piece of tapestry like fabric with an extremely cool print I found in the remnants, but when I got it home and unrolled it, it's had a plastic back, which meant I wasn't going to use it for the bodice, because it wont breathe.  I did use a little of it for accent, however.

[Sorcha]

Is it washable?
If it is or if you want it to be (faire is a hot and dusty place) wash it first to be sure shrinkage is kept to a minimum after the garment is constructed.
If it's not washable, be honest with yourself about the cost of drycleaning.

[operafantomet]

Is the pattern good for H/A garbs?

In Renaissance clothing (especially Italian, which is my field) unpatterned fabrics are occuring a lot more than patterned fabrics. Lots of trims and accenting details are however added, to make it look rich and ornamental. But there are many examples of patterns in the cloth as well. And it just looks and feels so right! But...

Rule number one: pick a symmetrical pattern. Pomegranate patterns are always successful, but any symmetrical motif will give you a nice result (as long as we're not talking DISNEY motifs and the likes...  ).

Rule number two: Apart from a few special dresses, the pattern of the fabric seldom differs in colour from the background colour in period fabrics/garbs. Two exceptions: white and black fabrics often have contrasting motifs.

EXAMPLES OF PATTERNED FABRICS IN ITALIAN RENAISSANCE DRESSES:







Browse through the nice galleries Bella at Realm of Venus has made, gathering surviving Italian Renaissance fabrics and samples. It'll give a very good clue on what looks period. As usual with surviving pieces, they display the finest of the finest, often meant for clerical robes, and might give a "false" idea of what people wore. On the other hand, many upper class women donated their finest dresses to churches, so the fabrics could be re-made into clerical robes after their death. So...

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/exttex15.htm
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/exttex16.htm

[Welsh Wench]

Does the colour look good on you? It doesn't matter how gorgeous a fabric or pattern is, if the colour is not flattering, you will  look either garish or washed-out.
It doesn't matter if it is 95% off--if it doesn't look good with your skin tones, better to pass it by.

Also FEEL the fabric. Does it drape well? And does the fabric you want fit the project you have in mind?
A heavy tapestry will NOT work for a chemise. On the other hand, if you need a dress with more substance, a light cotton may not work.

[TiaLD77]

#1 How often are you going to wash what ever you make of the fabric you are looking at?
#2 How well will this fabric hold up after Multiple washes? (some chenile, velveteen's etc Shed copiously when washed)
#3 is it going to fray like the dickens when sneezed at from the opposite end of fair?

[chriscat53]

I am working mainly from Vecellio in terms of picking fabric for garb. Since Vecellio is not in color, and he does show contrasting patterns in fabrics for garments worn together in the late 16th Century, I wonder what the colors looked like. Even with the earlier gowns ca. 1530-40, sleeves are of different fabrics, and some with fur, slashes, etc. and often in portraits, solid colored (lower) sleeves don't harmonize in color with the gown. I wish I knew more about Renaissance ideas of what was a good contrast in color. Victorians had some very strange but popular color contrasts like brown and blue.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

My basics for choosing fabrics for garb....

1) Color. How it looks against the skin. Some people are COOL complected(Blue Undertones) and WARM(Gold undertones). Golds or Yellows  on someone with Blue undertones in their skin makes them look sallow and washed out. I learned that from selling Cosmetics many years ago. Saves money on mundane wardrobes as well.

2) Breathability. Natural fibers as much as possible. The ability to wear layers of garb even in warmer climates.

3) Cleanability. Though most of the garb I have I hand wash with AMWAY's L.O.C.  or gentle cycle wash. Gets the dirt out and does not harm fabrics. I seldom Dry Clean anymore. I do hand clean my bodices with a clean wash cloth and then line dry.

4) Durability. Is the fabric going to hold up for years after many wearings and washings? My garb is going on 6 and 7 years already and still looks pretty darn good.

[Randal]

Let me add one:
Cost. Can you afford it, and are you willing to risk wearing it? By the end of a day at faire I am covered in dust, sweat, beer, henna, paint, grease, food, and any number of other nasty substances. Since I'm wearing garb that I can replace for a reasonable price, I don't stress over it. If I had a doublet with several hundred dollars worth of material, trim, and effort invested, I would be much less able to relax and enjoy myself. I'd be stressing over staying clean.

Randal

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I can see your point Randal. Peasant wear is supposed to look worn out, dirty, etc., if that is one's character.

I have noticed that Nobles tend to be more concious of what they are eating, drinking, their surroundings, etc.  Which would make for the ease or lack thereof when wearing garb. Fabrics fir Noble wear does tend to stretch the wallet somewhat.

[Miranda]

I have noticed that Nobles tend to be more concious of what they are eating, drinking, their surroundings, etc.  Which would make for the ease or lack thereof when wearing garb. Fabrics fir Noble wear does tend to stretch the wallet somewhat.

I think the concept of the stretching wallet is relative.  My current nobles gown cost me less than $150 to construct. (Granted I already had stays and a farthingale.) My new Clouet gown (silk taffeta) will be coming in at $134.
That however,is due to months of bargain hunting (getting unbelievable prices on cotton velvet and silk taffeta), setting forward with a strict budget (giving myself a cushion in case I needed that extra spool of thread), and doing all of my own construction.

That being said, check the ability to take dye of that 75% off fabric, that has the icky color but is otherwise okay.  If standard grocery store rit isn't going to pass mustard, invest in some of the more expensive jacquard brand dye (5.00 a pot, but its great stuff and comes in a whole lot more colors).  Over dying stuff gives a whole new life to otherwise questionable colors. 

I buy a lot of my fabric on the internet, so I have to depend a lot on communication with vendors.  I've had about a 98% success rate with things being perfect (one green I bought looked entirely foresty on the net and turned out to be granny smith green in real life.)  Many vendors will send swatches if requested, or sell you very small yardages so you can play with it.

The great thing about natural fibers is as a rule of thumb, linens generally always behave like linens, silks behave like silks, etc.  You can frequently anticipate what you are going to get.

[Randal]

Miranda, I think you demonstrated my point perfectly. Cost is a deciding factor in choosing fabrics. You spend months bargain hunting and searching out the best deals. I tend to choose materials based on initial cost, the ease of cleaning, and the durability, in order to reduce the frequency and cost of replacement.

Randal

[Don Giovanni de' Medici]

I have a few that have yet to be mentioned:

Skill: If you are making your own garb, one should consider whether or not they have skill with the particular fabric they are working with.  Certain types of fabrics are less cooperative under the foot of a machine, especially fabrics that are somewhat stretchy or delicate fabrics with a nap such as velvets.  I am always up to learning something new, but be aware that it may take extra care and even possibly extra fabric for mistakes.  Which brings me to my next point...

Time: Consider how much time you have to create a garment.  If you are pressed for time try to work with fabrics, cuts, and patterns you are familiar with.  If this is your first time, give yourself extra time to "learn-as-you-go" as you most certainly will.

~Ryan

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

Thank you to all who have been posting hints.  As a nonsew-er, these tips are invaluable, because most of them are things I wouldn't have thought about, because I don't know what I don't know.  If that makes any sense.

Please keep them coming. 

[Margaret]

Don't always believe the 'Dry Clean Only' label.

If you find some nice fabric at a good price, but don't want to pay for dry cleaning:  Buy a 1/2 yd. of the stuff, sew the edges so they don't fray and toss it in the washer.  Odds are it will wash up just fine and save you the expense of dry cleaning.

[isabelladangelo]

I will say this:  I have never spent more than $100 on fabric alone for any of my gowns. Ever.  The vast majority of my gowns cost well under $50 for the fabric.  Sign up for those coupons from Joanns, Denver Fabrics, Hancock Fabrics, and Fabric.com.  Right now I have three 50% off ones for Joanns to use this week.  I've gotten notices quickly about all the specials that fabric.com has.   

Also, look at ebay.com once you get use to seeing fabrics and knowing what the fabric content most likely is based on looks.  I've gotten some wonderful deals off of ebay before on fabric (22 yards of blue linen for $35 for example...) and it's a great place to buy if you know what you are doing.  There are a few guides to help those that aren't as experienced with online fabric shopping up on ebay.

Also, check out flea markets, thrift stores, and antique shops for fabric.

[Cilean]

First of All Welcome to the Madness. If you are new, then the first thing I need to tell you is really 1 word: RESEARCH!!!


RESEARCH:

#1. Your Time Period- What was worn in the 1400's might not be worn in the 1500's, or styles of course.  Pay close attention, one would not wear early Tudor in 1560's particularly the Upper Crust and Nobility. 

#2. Your Country of Choice- In Italian City States you could wear Linen as outwear, however if you lived in England Linen from what is known would not be used as an      Outer Fabric wool would be your first fabric of choice.


#3. Your Venue- Are you going to be wearing this inside or outside? Will you be cooking? How about walking in dusty or muddy or icky places?? 
Most of Faire people will want something that could be brushed out like Cotton Velvet or Velveteen as well as wools with some 3M Scotchgard it makes the gown easier to care for. If in the SCA and during Feasting Season, I would then use Silks and such, because I will be inside less likely to have my silk taffeta stained from outside sources.


#4. Plan for the entire outfit-
Most people don't figure on the cost of the outfit from the skin out.  Of course this is more for females than for males, however the men have to add more depth into the actual jerkins, so remembering that you have to also have corresponding underthings, to make the outfits work.  We have found even how you put your hair up helps the hats and coifs fit. So while you budget for the outer gown, you must think about Kirtle fabric, Pair of Bodyes fabrics and tools, Farthingale fabric and reed and stockings as well Smock fabric.  All of these are needed to make a complete outfit! 


#5. Your Budget- there are 3 parts to a budget for an outfit that I would give to people who are beginning:

Time

Effort

Money

If you don't have one of the components, you need to double up on the other 2, eg- if you have no time for a gown to be created then you need to expend more effort and money.

If you can't afford anything but dupioni because you found it at $5.00 a yard and it does not have any huge slubs, then perhaps you can add some embroidery to the fabric so that it will look like what you need it to be.  Which means you need to add more time to make the gown awesome, or you could find some iron transfers to make it look like a portrait. So then once you have the knowledge by researching you will know what you will need, when you see 6 yards of wool at Joann's from the 1/2 price bin and then 50% off again?

By researching your outfit then you will know exactly what you need, and what is required to make it a reality.


Cilean

[Seamus Ex Machina]

Thanks to all of you for this thread!  My better half requested and received a new sewing machine for Christmas, with the stated purpose of expanding our (already embarrassing) garb collection.  Your tips are very appreciated.

[LadyShadow]

Thank you for the helpful tips.  I am getting into sewing garb and does it ever make the head spin if you are not very familiar.