Garb Planning Class~ Please Provide Feedback!!!

[Cilean]

Hello All!!

As the New Year Begins!!! I thought it might be fun to think of creating a gown.  I have been working on a set of helper themes for New to Sewing and New to the SCA or Faires who are hoping to get a complete Gown.  So many people ask so often I have set up a class or it will be a class at the next collegium.

So please check these questions out so that you can add your information, I will begin with my own set as I am making a gown that will be using this class for an example.

Let's Get Started!!


Planning Your Next 16th Century Garb

#1.  Research! Please show examples of what you want the garb to look like:

#2.  The Purpose of the Garb?

#3.  Where will the Garb be worn? ( Hot Sun, Camping Event, Indoors, Coronations or in the Mud)

#4.  How Do You Handle Climate Extremes?  (Can your body handle extreme conditions eg heat, cold, rain?)

#5.  How Authentic will the Garb be?

#6.  What Time and Country is the Garb from? (Be specific please don't mix 1500 to 1555, or 1600, don't go more than 10 years for each decade will have fashion changes.)

#7.  Are there any Practicality or Comfort Considerations?

#8.  What will be the estimate for a Budget?

#9.  Fabrics~ What materials will you use?

#10.  Make a Design board: Please draw out your design for your garb, then if you have them place the fabrics swatches on the board, you can also make a virtual board by adding the fabrics on a drawing then taking a picture of what you will be making.

#11. Explain all of the parts and pieces of Garb you will need, what you already have and what you will need to create to complete the Garb.

#12. How are you planning to create this gown? Will you be draping and drafting a pattern on your own?  Will you use a commerical pattern and which one? Why did you choose this specific pattern?  Why did you pick this commercial pattern opposed to others?



Okay so this is the end of what I have for the classwork, if you all can think of more questions please add them!!

Cilean

[Cilean]

Here is my example of what I will be making next year!

Planning Your Next 16th Century Garb

#1.  Research! Please show examples of what you want the garb to look like:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Cilean/ResearchOnGarbToCreate?authkey=U325EuAi34Y#5284719384314258290

http://picasaweb.google.com/Cilean/ResearchOnGarbToCreate?authkey=U325EuAi34Y#5284719504874277234
Thanks to Tudor Tailor for this gown shot.

http://www.deserttorch.cascades.bz/images/DTT/Misc/Puleyn's.jpg

http://www.flickr.com/photos/clanwolfhaven/185644921/in/pool-4yc

http://www.flickr.com/photos/clanwolfhaven/185644920/in/pool-4yc


#2.  The Purpose of the Garb?

This is a Tourney Season Garb for the SCA. It will be made to help me handle the heat of Northern California.


#3.  Where will the Garb be worn? ( Hot Sun, Camping Event, Indoors, Coronations or in the Mud)
I have never dealt with heat very well, and this gown will be

#4.  How Do You Handle Climate Extremes?  (Can your body handle extreme conditions eg heat, cold, rain?)
I have always been affected by the heat but  now that I am getting older the extreme are bothering me more. So I am modifying Elizabethans in order to lighten the load and make it still as fashionable as I can but feel better in the Summer camping season.

#5.  How Authentic will the Garb be?
I don't hand sew due to Carpal Tonal Syndrome so I try to finsih edges with hand stitches.

#6.  What Time and Country is the Garb from? (Be specific please don't mix 1500 to 1555, or 1600, don't go more than 10 years for each decade will have fashion changes.) 1560's to 1570's closed Jerkin Gown with a Kirtle, I think I will do some basic embroidery for the neckline and arms of the kirtle (which will be detachable)

#7.  Are there any Practicality or Comfort Considerations?
The Kirtle will made from Linen and the Gown from Cotton Upholstery Fabric  lined in Linen.

#8.  What will be the estimate for a Budget?
the Linen is not in my stash, it is $12.00 per yard and I will have to pick up 5 yards for the kirtle. Silk embroidery thread is also not in my stash so I will have to add that at $3.25 per skein and I will pick up 4 of those.  So we are looking at a total of $73.00 for this project.

#9.  Fabrics~ What materials will you use?
Kirtle will be made from Linen that is shot with silver.  The gown will be Cotton upholstery material that is cotton and green with Fleur de Lys pattern.

#10.  Make a Design board: Please draw out your design for your garb, then if you have them place the fabrics swatches on the board, you can also make a virtual board by adding the fabrics on a drawing then taking a picture of what you will be making.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Cilean/Fabric#5284746503381625330



#11. Explain all of the parts and pieces of Garb you will need, what you already have and what you will need to create to complete the Garb.

A. Smock~ Made already, I will be using the Elizabethan Smock with a collar
B. Pair of Bodyes~ New needs to be made.
C. Bum Roll ~ Made already
D. Corded Petticoat ~ New needs to be made.
E. Petticoat
F. Kirtle ~ New needs to be made and embroidered.
G. Gown ~ New and needs to be made.

#12. How are you planning to create this gown? Will you be draping and drafting a pattern on your own?  Will you use a commerical pattern and which one? Why did you choose this specific pattern?  Why did you pick this commercial pattern opposed to others?

Mixture of Draping the use of toiles or mock ups to make patterns and Margo Anderson's Patterns.  It is a combination of all of them.


Cilean

[gem]

I think this is a great idea, and I would so participate in a planning class!! 

Your filled-out version was helpful; at first I wasn't sure what "what's the purpose of the garb" meant.

I would say, though, that the question about what parts and pieces the garb will need presupposes that the person taking the class already *knows* this... and if s/he knows what parts/pieces s/he needs, then why would s/he be taking the class?  You know what I mean?  Unless you mean this as a worksheet to be filled out and completed as they go through the lessons...?

(One last thing; puts on Editor Hat   Your answer to question 7 on Practicality and Comfort is actually the answer to question 9, on fabrics.  I was thinking the answer should be something more like, "The tourney grounds are hot and dusty; the garb needs to be washable.")

Good luck!

[Margaret]

You should put something in there about;  How do you plan on getting dressing in the garb.


Nothing is worse than planning and creating a beautiful back laced gown and then realize you are not going to have anyone to help you get into the durn thing.

[Randal]

I think that question #6 should also include class, as lower classes would be further  out of style, affecting  the warning against mixing time periods.

I also think that question #9 needs expanded to include authenticity/appropriateness and any special skills needed to work with the chosen fabric.

Just my 2 cents...
Randal

[redkimba]

Nice questionnaire.  I was thinking that you might want to include a question on whether this particular garment will ever be entered into a contest. 

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

Here's a response from one who only knows how to hem and to sew on buttons.

I wouldn't be able to answer questions 5,6,9,10,11 and 12 if I was in a new-to-sewing class.  Because I don't have a clue, and that's why I would need to take the class in the first place.

These questions are a step above Sewing for Dummies, which I, as a non-sew-er, would need to start with.  Having said that, maybe a noble gown wouldn't be my first attempt, but I'd like to start with a chemise and skirt.

If you plan to use these questions for people who don't sew, then they are too intimidating.  If you use them for people with prior sewing experience, then they sound great.

[Cilean]

Awesome answers and suggestions!!



To Randal:

#6 is an open question it does not make a discernment of class structure, so you can design peasant gear up to nobility. I do have to admit, since I am making this for either the SCA or for Faire Folk as I teach people from either venue.  The SCA would veer towards Gentry and above of the past historical populace, but also it is up to the person who is envisioning this garb. 


To redkimba:

You are so right about the competition information so I have added it to my list! Because if you are going to add this to an SCA A&S competition you want to make sure you have a research paper to back up what you have done and how you achieved your design.  Thank you for the input!!!

To Lady Renee Buchanan:

This questionnaire is just part of the class, but the first thing I mention is to #1 Research!!!  Each of the questions are set up so that you will be able to answer the next one down the list.  As such I also will include a (hopefully) helpful bibliography of basic and not so basic books on costuming, clothing creation, and accessories.  I have been compiling websites as well so people can find that special fabric and I give a little spiel on eBay and Craiglist! I have gotten some awesome things from Craigslist!


To Margaret:

Do you mean if you are heading to faire without escort and you have a back lacing gown? Is that not how you meet new people? Giggle!
I will add it in the Construction/Patterns question.  If you are single and shy you need to get into your garb by your lonesome so that is something to think about.  I was never really shy at faire so I had people lace me in all the time!   

To Gem:
You are right when I was writing that up it did not flow, so I just put it down as it was, I think I would change it for others, I will have the outfit done to show how I have gotten to the end result.

I also thought of another Question: How much time are you  leaving for your garb to be made and how to estimate, which is always a hard thing to do.

Cilean