Buying the Right Sized Pattern (tips for beginners)

[gem]

Since shopping for my new machine, I've been hanging out on the forum at PatternReview, and today somebody posted a wonderful link to a brochure on fitting and pattern sizes, "Do you REALLY Know Your Pattern Size?" put out by the Big 3.  You can download the .pdf file by clicking that link.  (Note: this is intended for women's sizes.)

The brochure explains/includes:
--that the Big 3 (Simplicity and McCall's/Butterick/Vogue) all use the *same* standard size charts
--how (and where) to take measurements
--how to read pattern sizes and select the right one based on your measurements
--how to adjust for a full bust
--information about pattern ease and wearing ease
--industry-standard measurement chart
--measurement worksheet

A lot of this information most of us have to learn through trial and error; it's nice to see it all put together in one place by the pattern companies!

[Joyce "Delfinia DuSwallow" Howard]

thanks Gem for the great info, i can use all the help i can get.

[LadyShadow]

Great thank you.  That will really help me out.

[LadyStitch]

I've  had a devil of a time fitting my DDD girl for shows.  I've been buying a size larger and taking it in to fit her everywhere but her bust.  I'll try their C cup and bigger technique on her next dress. See if that helps her a little better.

[gem]

I've been afraid to try an honest-to-goodness full-bust alteration on a commercial/mundane pattern, but the Pattern Review folks really recommend the method given in Patti Palmer's book Fit for Real People.  I've used Margo Anderson's method of merging pattern sizes in a bodice with great success, but that requires you to have the pattern sizes for both your bust and your shoulder.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Patti's method is a classic and really does work.

[Elennare]

One thing to note, specific to sewing for ren faire:  if you're buying a Big 3 pattern for a bodice, make sure to check the finished garment measurements and buy the pattern based on those.  Some of them have a SIGNIFICANT amount of ease built in and it won't fit if you buy the "right" size pattern based off of your measurements.  I've made that mistake a couple of times.  The worst was 4" ease in the bust! o.O

[Artemisia]

One thing to note, specific to sewing for ren faire:  if you're buying a Big 3 pattern for a bodice, make sure to check the finished garment measurements and buy the pattern based on those.  Some of them have a SIGNIFICANT amount of ease built in and it won't fit if you buy the "right" size pattern based off of your measurements.  I've made that mistake a couple of times.  The worst was 4" ease in the bust! o.O

Same here. I tried reading through Big 3 "Know your pattern size" and it doesn't say much about pattern and design ease. It says to watch for the words, "close-fitting" but even those words are misleading. I know, I tried a civil war corset some time ago and it was a disaster.

Lots of other people had the same problem with renfaire bodices and corsets. Here is a fantastic forum specifically for corsets: http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/

And one of my favorite pattern comparisons by Shaerie raulli. She actually made up lots of different corset muslins for use in teaching a corset class which includes some of the Big 3:
http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/554657.html
http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/573049.html

I haven't tried Patti Palmers book. Got to give it a read.

[sealion]

TFS! I am so frustrated with trying to buy mundane clothing that fits in the bust without being too large and sloppy looking everywhere else that I think the time has come to teach myself how to make "real clothes".

[Kate XXXXXX]

Get yourself a couple of good fitting guides, and learn to to the Large Bust Adjustment.  After that, it's plain sailing.

[operafantomet]

My best advice is always to add more fabric to the skirt, if you're making a female garb. The times I've tried Simplicity and Butterick, the skirts have been too narrow to achieve the right look. Well, I'm aiming for a fairly historical correct look, but still - a bit more fabric for the skirts is still adviceable.