Corsetry Questions part III: size & length

[gem]

Ok, so I am moving along with my corded corset plans, having figured out the cording and made my bias binding.  I'm now working on building my pattern, using my current corset from Castle Garden Creations (sorry, don't have a front view of it on me, although when I'm wearing it, it seems *way* longer than that!  The actual length, though, is only 13.5").  My plan is to add straps, and shorten the front to a more gradual curve.  I'm trying to get a nice, rounded, early Italian shape, like Jen Thompson's.

So, my questions:

1. Size
I've gained a little weight (not quite one dress size, but enough to make a difference) since I ordered that corset, and am wondering about the fit--and where to adjust on a pattern.  Here's a picture of the back:



Obviously, it seems to be too small in the waist, but it seems to fit comfortably everywhere else (the fit is actually *very nice* at the bustline--nicer even than when I was slightly thinner!).  I was thinking of inputting my measurements into the Custom Corset Pattern Generator to compare this finished corset with her pattern, and see what the differences are.  But since there's no side seam to this garment, I'm not sure where to let out for the difference in waist measurement.   



2. Length
Because (at least the size it is now) it cuts into my waistline/hips, and I can't see adding tabs to a corset for a Florentine gown, I was thinking of shortening it dramatically--like closer to the bottom of my rib cage on the sides (about where the third grommet up from the bottom is), and just a couple inches below my natural waist in front.  Am I way off here?  Will I regret this forever?  Do I really just want it to fit just a little *looser* in the waist?  I'm not planning loads of heavy skirts with this, but as it is now it's not working at all.  The padding on my hips isn't going anywhere and tabs aren't really an option, so...?  (I see now that Jen Thompson's goes just a little *below* her natural waistline... oh, now I'm confused!).

Thoughts?

Gramercy!!

[PrincessSara]

I would make it to sit around the natural waist.  If you look at those early 1500s Italian - mostly Florentine - portraits, the gowns only come to around (or just below) the bottom of the ribcage.  The front "point" can dip below the natural waistline, just to give a nice line in front. 

I can't remember, what are you going to be wearing this under?  That'll affect how long the corset is.

Operafan?  I'm sure you have some fabulous tips for this, more informed than mine anyway! 

[CenturiesSewing]

From the look of it the difference between the bust and the waist is at the back edges, so you would just need to  reshape the back section to a less steep angle. Hmm you also might put a line of interfacing along there to help keep it from pulling out of shape over time.

I second making it sit at your natural waist at the back and sides, it will be much more comfy.

[Kate XXXXXX]

1: SIZE  Do the custom corset thing, and compare the pattern as is with the extant corset.  Look at where the differences are.  Make up the quickie to compare the fit.  I found that the corset generator worked very well for me, and it too has no seams.

2: LENGTH AND FIT.  When comparing the two, take special note of the length differences at the under arm.  Try putting the extant one on with it fitting at your natural waistline: does it poke/cut in at the armpits?  If so, it is too long.  Compare it with the corset generator one...  I found that the corset generator pattern needed a slice off the bottom the first time I used it, and gave me a very shallow point at the front.  This may have been due in part to being a UK size 24 when I made it...  When I did it again for the black bodice, I added more length to the CF to get a good point.  I'd also lost a lot of weight between the two...

Both projects are on my web site, under the Hysterical Costuming heading: http://www.katedicey.co.uk