Where do you get buckram?

[gem]

I've been reading Kat's Purple Files Tudor diary, where she's stiffened a bodice with a layer of buckram (which I'm now anxious to try):

http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat's_1st_Tudor_stiffening_Investigated.html

Anyone have a source for this?  I did a quick Google search, and wasn't sure what the differences (if any) were between buckram for hatmaking, buckram for bookbinding, and the sort that would be useful for stiffening a bodice.  I'd hate to get the wrong kind!

Anyone?

Gramercy!

[LadyOren]

I've purchased it a my local Joann's,  Hobby Lobby.  Also try searching for someone in your area that makes hats, or sells hats supplies, buckram is used alot in hatmaking.
Best Wishes.

[Lady L]

I also bought some at Joanns, but the thing is with buckram, it can NOT get wet. I really didn't like that idea, so I never used it. Maybe there is a different buckram for bodices? Otherwise, it would seem quite useless, because everyone does perspire.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I checked witha  vendor at Bristol last year, La Paloma Hats,  as to where she gets her buckram...Judith M Millenery Supply. http://www.judithm.com/

I jjust ordered a 10 yard roll of heavy duty buckram that can be wetted,blow  dried to be blocked before covering. http://www.judithm.com/shop/?keyword=buckram&page=shop%2Fbrowse&Search.x=12&Search.y=8

The problem with the buckram I was getting from JoAnn's, I had to use 3 to 4 layers and it would still sag. I had to use a heavy interfacing  known as a Stabilizer to make brims stiff enough.

[gem]

Lady Kathleen, is this the buckram you bought?

Heavyweight Buckram

It says "heavily sized," which has me a bit worried.  Do you know if it can be *re-wetted?*

I suppose I could always order some and experiment; it's not expensive....

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Yes gem!!!

It's very sturdy and measures 30" wide. I also  use a 20 giage millenery wire for Brims and Crowns when I do hats. Sibgle fold wide bias to sew over the  wire.

It was my friend, Donna, who owns Fyne Hats by Felicity, that gave a grart workshop at Costume Con in Des Moines, about how buckram can be dampened down witha wet cloth, then blow dried. I do tghat after I have the Wire and bias sewn on. It's a slick procedure.

When i am finished with this roll, I am going to order the Theatrical weight. That's even heavier.

I also ordered some Millenery Grosgrain ribbon, also known as Petersham, to shape for when I use it for the brim edge. You see pertersham on men's hats in particular and as inner sweatbands.

[irish]

Sagging buckram.......don't I know that! It was the best JoAnn's had, too!
I added so much buckram to make a Cavalier hat and the darn thing still sagged! He was happy with the hat, I wasn't! LOL!

[Margaret]

Yeah - I never use buckram for garb.  It never seems stiff enough and you can not get it wet.

Horse hair canvas works well instead of the buckram.  I can get it locally at Haberman Fabrics, but I am sure you could google it and find an internet supplier.

[isabelladangelo]

For hats, I use plastic canvas.  It works and you can get it wet without worrying.  I learned when I was seven what happens to buckrum when it get wet.  My flip flopped Mickey Mouse ears put me off the stuff for life!

For corsets, canvas.  There is, if you can find it, linen canvas which is great stuff.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I use Plastic Canvas for French Hoods mostly. I did use Plastic Canvas for a Tall Hat once and did not like it. I had a hard time sewing with it and broke a slew of machine needles, that I had to do it by hand. The hat did not turn out well and tore the whole thing apart and used Buckram instead.

I personally perfer Buckram for Hat making. I never use it for garb. Cotton Canvas Duck is the perferred material for underlining Bodices and Corsets. Then using the Heavy Duty Cable ties for the boning rather than the metal boning. Much more comfortable.

[mollymishap]

Gem, if you're planning on using the "heavily sized" buckram for your bodice, my guess is that your perspiration and body heat *must* affect the sizing's performance, since in essence your body is acting like a giant steamer, you know?

Maybe looking at the manufacturer's suggestions for usage may help since my guess is that the sizing used for millinery will react differently if used for other purposes.

I believe Syrilla has a period recipe for paste which *was* used in period for stiffening of garments (vs. millinery), so she may be able to weigh in on this topic.  You might be able to use un-sized buckram and just use period paste to achieve the same effect?

[Syrilla]

Either, the link is broken, or I no longer have the link.  However, I do have a old washing method of starching / stiffening... Some I have tried, or seen tried, others sound interesting.


   For general laundry purposes, cooked starch is the customary standby. Following is a general recipe for cooked starch, which may be varied to suit one's needs.

    * 1 to 4 tablespoonfuls starch
    * 1 quart boiling water
    * 1 cupful cold water
    * 1/4 teaspoonful paraffin or lard

Blend the starch and cold water to a smooth paste, and then gradually pour in the boiling water. Add the paraffin or lard next. Boil the mixture until clear, stirring constantly, generally for 5 to 10 minutes. Strain while hot. If 1/2 teaspoonful of borax is added with the paraffin or lard, it will help to whiten the clothes and also make the starch smoother.

For a stiff dressing, the starch should be made very heavy; that is, more starch should be used in the mixture. When cooled enough to handle, such starch should be like a very soft jelly.

    Uncooked or cold starch also has its place in laundry work, although, because of the difficulty in ironing garments starched in this way, it is wiser to use a stiff cooked dressing, which produces practically the same results.

There are various brands of commercial starch to use for cold starching. Such starches are simply blended with cold water and are generally used for collar bands and cuffs, or wherever a firm, stiff finish is desired.

    Borax dressing is used to stiffen laces, fine voiles, or organdies. A solution of borax made with 1 teaspoonful of borax to 1 quart of hot water is very satisfactory.

Garments stiffened by borax must be ironed before they have dried, as the dressing is not heavy enough to warrant the dilution caused by sprinkling.

    Gum arabic makes a good stiffening agent for crisp lawns and organdies, particularly in dark colors. It may be purchased in powdered or lump form, but if possible the powder should be procured. Let 1 or 1 1/2 tablespoonfuls stand in a quart of hot water until dissolved. Strain the solution and, when needed, use 1/4 cupful to 1 quart of water for average stiffness.

In using this dressing, allow the garment to dry after washing and then wet it thoroughly with the gum-arabic solution. Allow it to dry again and then dampen for ironing. Roll the garment treated with the gum arabic firmly in a towel, and after it has stood 15 to 30 minutes, iron as you would iron a starched garment.

    Rice water forms another medium for stiffening laces. To prepare this dressing, wash 2 tablespoonfuls of rice until it is perfectly clean, and put it in a saucepan with 1 1/2 pints of water. Boil 4 minutes, strain, and then allow the lace to stand in this water for a minute or two. Iron the lace from the wrong side while damp, placing a damp cloth over it at first.

    In the process of stiffening, the following precautions should be noted:

The hotter the starch is, the less danger there is of its sticking.

Turn the garments wrong side out before dipping them into the solution and hang them on the line in this way.

Wring out as dry as possible from the rinse or bluing water all garments that are desired to be very stiff, and be sure that these are the first things to be dipped into the starch.

Put white clothes into the starch while it is very hot.

In starching a garment or part of a garment with heavy starch, dry the garment first and then starch it. Rub the starch in thoroughly until every part of the material, even though there are several thicknesses, has taken up enough to be wet. Then stretch the surface, smooth it, and wipe off all shining starch with a soft, damp cloth. The garment is then ready for finishing with a hot iron.

[Artemisia]

I just bought 3 yards of Joann buckram for a sewing tote.
Nice to know that it'll sag and I can never wash it.
What would you guys recommend for a stiff, washable bag such as this one?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Use Cotton Canvas Duck for underlining bags that can be hand washed, hang dry, then ironed.

Buckram is usually used for Hat making.

[Artemisia]

Use Cotton Canvas Duck for underlining bags that can be hand washed, hang dry, then ironed.

Buckram is usually used for Hat making.

Thanks for the quick reply.
Stupid McCalls wants me to use buckram.

I guess I finally have hatmaking on the list! Can't let that buckram go to waste, ya know.

[Kate XXXXXX]

If the buckram is for the base, use pelmet weight Viline/Pellon, the sew-in type.  Goes floppy when you wash and iron it, stiffens up again when it cools down.  Or you can get bag bases like these: http://www.u-handbag.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=224

[gem]

Kate, "pelmet weight" is not a term I've heard in the US (I think a pelmet is like a valance, right--for going over a window?)--do you have a link to something similar so we can see what you mean?

[Syrilla]

Has anyone used Translucent Buckram?  A friend gave me a bit of yardage, It is only 5" wide, and has the look of buckram, but of a plastic feel.

[NicoleBridget]

For claification...Lady Kathleen, if you wet it once and blow dry it does that make it stand up to wetness in the future?  Also, does anyone know if any kind of spray-on moisture repellant would work? 

[Kate XXXXXX]

Kate, "pelmet weight" is not a term I've heard in the US (I think a pelmet is like a valance, right--for going over a window?)--do you have a link to something similar so we can see what you mean?

Here's da bunny!