Making Bloomers?

[midnightferret]

HI,

So I went over to http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm and found an easy chemise to make. (It wasn't really a pattern, but I had to start somewhere.) I made it, and wore it under my Greycat dress last year at TRF! I need ot make more! In different colors! With different sleeves and... oh yeah, bloomers.

I have this leftover fabric, and I was thinking that if Dawn had a "pattern" for bloomers, I would be all set. But she doesn't. There are, however, drawstring pants. I'm a little wary of pants. I used to make those simplicity 1hr or less drawstring rayon pants when I was in college, but that was a long time ago. There was a pattern. And I was thinner! In any case, is it just a question of making these pants but making them short, then adding the elastic in the legs?

Also, incidentally, I need someone to tell me how to finish seams: I just clipped the ones on my "test" chemise and put fray check on them, but I'd rather do something nicer. I have no idea what I used to do with them, and my "Singer: best sewing book ever" is in storage. It's a looooooong way from here to really making my own garb, but again, I've got to start somewhere.

[mieljolie]

I cheated and bought some drawstring linen capri pants.  Then I cinched in the legs with a drawstring.  I dont see why shortening a pant pattern wouldn't work. 

As for seams, I seem to like "french" seams, though they aren't necessary.  You just sew the wrong sides together, turn inside out and sew the right sides together to cover the raw edges.

[Margaret]

In any case, is it just a question of making these pants but making them short, then adding the elastic in the legs?

Quick answer - yes.  

Bloomers are just so much fun to make!   All the obnoxious fabric and patterns that you cannot use on the *outside* you can use on the *inside*!!  

As for finishing seams - I don't have a serger to finish my seams with - so, if it is fabric that will not fray all that much, I just sew another seam about a 1/4" away from the first.  If it's stuff like linen or silk, I will do a fell seam.

Here's a good description of how to do it;  http://www.vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-04.html

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

I've yet to go near my sewing machine after nearly 3 years of saying, "I'm gonna do it this week," but I've got tons of patterns "just in case."

Pajama pants, for example, Simplicity has about  9 different kinds, either drawstring or elastic waist.  I prefer elastic waist, because no one can see them, and when you're in a tiny privvy trying to keep skirts from dropping into the loo, it's one less thing to worry about, not having to untie and tie a drawstring, especially using one hand.

I haven't looked, but I'm guessing that McCall's probably has around the same variety to choose from.

[Lady L]

Yes, I agree with Lady Renee,
I would find an easy pajama pants pattern and I also would use elastic. You can finish the seams with a zigzag stitch, I use that quite a bit.

[Randal]

I use the same pattern for my pants and my wife's bloomers. It's a simple pajama pants pattern that consists of one piece. You cut out two legs, sew the inseams, turn one leg inside out, place one leg inside the other, and sew the crotch. I then hem the legs and add an elastic waistband. For bloomers I shorten them, and add some lace.

Randal

[Taffy Saltwater]

I like leaving the pantaloon length almost pant-length, then make an elasticized ruffle of the bottom 3 or 4 inches.  This gives the bloomer a nice poofiness & makes it easier to walk.  Others love bloomers that are open on the bottom, which permits for air flow.  For this I recommend commercial linen capris - add a little ribbon or trim if you want to dress the legs up.

[midnightferret]

Thanks so much for all your help! I am going pajama pants pattern hunting soon. In the meantime I may work with what I have and try the breeches pattern and make them short with elasticized ruffles.

Speaking of which, I had a book that showed you how to do the ruffle, and it looked like all there was to it was to fold the hem under, sew across however far in you want the "ruffle part" to be, then sew again further in so you can put the elastic in. I've avoided it so far, but is that really all there is to it?

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

I'm replying to Taffy's post.  My bloomers are open on the bottom.  One of my Dubuque friends, a professional seamstress, suggested that there's more airflow without the elastic on the bottom.  On days of 100+ degrees at Bristol in July and August, I really appreciate that.

However, if I was planning to have the bloomers show in some way (hiking up skirt, wearing under an Irish dress), then I'd put the elastic at the bottom, as I think it would look better.

[Adriana Rose]

I really like the simplicty harem pants for bloomers, i just cut them off to knee lenght and add elastic on the bottoms.. easy peasy

it took me like 20 minutes to make a pair

[Taffy Saltwater]

To cut bulk at the ruffle, use a extra wide single fold bias tape sewn in the wrong side of the fabric where you want the elastic & just hem your ruffle.

[mieljolie]

To cut bulk at the ruffle, use a extra wide single fold bias tape sewn in the wrong side of the fabric where you want the elastic & just hem your ruffle.

That's a good suggestion.  I never have liked elastic rubbing on my skin.  Though it's probably more victorian-ish, you could also dress it up by using some kind of eyelet lace on the right side in place of the elastic casing and run a ribbon through it.  Something like these:

http://www.laceheaven.com/le13eybelaiv.html
http://www.laceheaven.com/le216wheylaw.html

[Margaret]

I never bother with elastic at the hem of my bloomers.

I usually go with the most obnoxious lace I can find.

[Maeve McMayhem]

Bloomers.. I found an awesome way to make them! I bought a pair of scrub pants at Walmart and some lace, dyed the lace to a pretty blue..cropped the scrubs, added elastic and the lace. Worked beautifully! Not to mention, you can have a ton of different bloomer colors and lace as well! I went with black bloomers and ocean blue lace.. It is fabulous.

[Adriana Rose]

The crazier the color the better! my favorite pair have lime green lace!

[Badra]

Along the pajama bottom lines, The Drunken Damsels cannibalized some scrubs to make bloomers.  We made pouches out of the parts we cut off.

[Taffy Saltwater]

My faves are black w/a wild tea pots/cups print.

[wyckdblyss]

I have been (actually, my mom is using it...since  my sewing skills are limited) using a pattern from Simplicity that has 3 different lengths...shorts, capri, and pants, this way I can have any length I want...and I agree, the wilder the colors and patterns the better!

[Randal]

I use a simple pajama pants pattern for making bloomers for my wife. Use the cheapest material you can find to make a test pair with, then once you're happy with the fit, make the nice ones. Wild colors and patterns are great, but stay away from the man-made materials. Go with linen, cotton, silk, etc.

To finish seams that don't show you can always try a pair of pinking shears. My machine will do an overcast stitch, but you can get similar results by first sewing a straight stitch, then going back alaong that seam with a zigzag that reachs from the straight stitch, to almost the raw edge. Practice on some scrap first.

At the waistband and the cuffs, simply make sure that the raw edge is folded under before hemming. Pressing it with an iron first will make it much easier to manage.

Randal

[bellevivre]

Ok, really, no need to waste money on pattens.

Lay out a pair of PJ bottoms so that the rise (the scooped part of the body) is shown (like this:

|         \
|          \
|           \
|            ----
|                 |
|                 |
|                 |
|                 |
|                 |
|                 |
--------------

Ok, trace that out- there's your pattern. Now, Make 4 of those, allowing at least an inch of seam allowance (more if you want baggier)

Then, you can just drawstring or elastic at waist and hem- tadaaaa!

I will say, if you are wearing bloomers to avoid chafage, too roomy can be bad if you dont have some sort of closure at the leg...

[Rubiee]

I will say, if you are wearing bloomers to avoid chafage, too roomy can be bad if you dont have some sort of closure at the leg...

I will agree with this 100%. Chafing = bad.
I don't use a pattern for my bloomers either. I'll usually mock one with muslin, if it works then I have a secondary pair of bloomers.

....I really should make an outrageous colored pair for this year. That sounds like a ton of fun!!!

[Tink]

I haven't tried making bloomers, yet, but with all of these suggestions, I can't wait to make some!  I've been using wrap pants to cut out the chafing.  I like them because they're nice and airy, but they're a pain to untie and retie every time I visit the privy.  Has anyone tried making wrap pants with an elastic waistband?

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

I had a Hancock's fabric coupon in my purse with the intention of buying lightweight material to make another pair of bloomers.  On the way I stopped at Goodwill.  Found a pair of cotton pajamas for $2.99.  With an elastic waist and drawstring.  Hot pink and yellow paisley.  So I bought them with the intention of cutting the legs up to capri length, and I have new bloomers.  I couldn't buy the material, thread, and elastic for that, not to mention the time to make them.