Projecting and Enlarging Patterns?

[peggyelizabeth]

I've used an overhead projector and made sure that there was a box on the pattern that equaled 1 inch, so I was able to easily know if it was in scale or not.

On smaller items I've scaled patterns up on the computer and yes, taped the pieces together to make the pattern. I used the same trick to make sure that the scale was correct as I did w/ overheads, it's time consuming and I used a fair amount of tape, but it works well.

[Lady L]

Where are you all finding paper big enough to draw patterns? School supply stores or Michael's or something?

No, husband brought home a huge roll, it must be 6 feet tall and who knows how long. It's white paper, no lines or grids. It's heavier than text weight, but not as heavy as card stock. I will have to ask him where he got it, but I know it was free.
End of a roll or something like that.

He said he got it at a manufacturing place. I don't know where you live, but here in MN we have some paper mills and Wisc does too. Maybe you could ask there. He said the roll weighs about 200 pounds.

Here is a diagram I made up to explain better what I meant about enlarging a pattern.



Now, however long you want the center back to be, is how much you multiply and then just plot the points on the paper. Connect the dots on the paper and you have it. You can get a french curve sewing sloper, if you can't draw the curves. ( I think that's what it's called)

[Artemisia]

::prints out topic and places in sewing binder::
God I love you guys.

[Artemisia]

 

Okay, I tried the plot/grid thing and it didn't work for me.
My problem is finding the correct angle to line up a point.
For example, I place my ruler at the shoulder point. Now how do I know the ruler is at the correct angle? Should I use my yardstick to line up a shoulder point with the bottom waist point as reference? Should that work?

Also, are there any books on the subject?

[Lady L]

Yes, "Make Your Own Patterns" by Rene Bergh is a very good one. I got it with a coupon at Joanns. Measurements in inches and centimeters. Shows you the very basics of pattern drafting. They start with a rectangle and tell you what points to plot.
Also includes patterns that are quarter scale and info on how to grade patterns up or down.  They measure from the bust point, radiating outwards to enlarge the diagram, for example.

"The Medieval Tailor's Assistant -making common garments 1200-1500" by Sarah Thursfield (measurements are in centimeters though) has excellent diagrams. Planning directly from personal measurements to make a block, then from block to pattern. They also have 121 patterns and diagrams.

Both books explain the steps far better than  I can on here.

[Tixi]

"The Medieval Tailor's Assistant -making common garments 1200-1500" by Sarah Thursfield

Ooooh... I will definitely try to pick that one up - Most modern books on the subject of pattern drafting make use of a lot of those irritating darts.
Thanks!

[lady serena]

Here is a site link from Burda that says you can enlarge a pattern up to 3 sizes bigger. It is for Burda patterns but I don't think that it really matters, I'm sure one of the seamstress can correct me if I'm wrong and please do if I am.  I don't know if works yet as I'm going to give it a try soon hopefully.
http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/636

[Mythrin]

I bought a roll of painters paper at Home Depot - 4 ft wide and who knows how many feet long - for about $9 and have been using it for years to draft my patterns.  It is heavy weight and durable and cheap.

[Artemisia]

I have The Medieval Tailors Assistant. It's an excellent book! I started with only the basic tunic sloper and in a couple of years graduated to drape fitting the venetian you see in my avatar.

"Make Your Own Patterns" by Rene Bergh sounds excellent. Will pick up a copy.

I also have another How to Make Sewing Patterns but that book was next to useless to me.

I'd rather first learn how to enlarge an existing pattern so I can really understand the drafting process. Then I'll graduate to drawing my own.

Lady Serena that link will be useful to me. It explains alot.

I use packaging paper - guess painters paper is of heavier stock. To make sure I've got my lines straight I first use gift wrapping paper with the grid on the back - thanks to Mags for that one.

Woohoo, lots to learn and do!

[VIII]

I don't know if works yet as I'm going to give it a try soon hopefully. http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/636

Yep, that is exactly how I do it!  It takes some work on the curves, but it works.

[Lady L]

For example, I place my ruler at the shoulder point. Now how do I know the ruler is at the correct angle?

Maybe you won't get the *correct* angle on the first attempt. Recently, I drafted a bodice pattern for my granddaughter and  made up a muslin. I needed to take off a quarter inch from the outside edge of the shoulder seam, because her shoulders are a little more slanted, but it wasn't off by much.
I think you would get close, but then everyone's shape is different, so you need to make adjustments, according to your personal measurements. But then, if you know that you always need to "take in" or "add to" somewhere, you could just transfer that info to the next patterns you make.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I don't usually have much problem, but I do have basic drafting skills and I use dot & cross paper...  A set of French Curves helps!   

[Lady L]

I think practice helps, as with anything.
Today, I was talking with my daughterinlaw on the phone. After we hung up, I measured and drew a pattern for my granddaughter. I even surprised myself that it came out exactly right on the first attempt! By the time my daughterinlaw arrived (a few minutes drive across town) I had the seam allowances added and cut out the pattern. 
I just eyeballed drawing the curves and it was perfect! Usually, I have to fold it in half to make both sides even. I must be improving.
My advice is, just keep at it.

[mollymishap]

Well, here's what I do to enlarge a pattern from the small ones you find in books and such: I use my cutting mat & tailor's chalk.  If you go to my website & scroll down to the middle of the "Dorothea" page, you can see what I mean. 

Since doing it this way produces just a larger version of the pattern in the book, I still will probably have to make alterations to it so that it fits my body, but I can't even start to explain how I go about doing that.  It's just one of those things that, like LadyL said, takes practice, and I'm sure the authors of the books already mentioned do a muuuch better job than I ever could at explaining it.

[GirlChris]

molly: That is BRILLIANT!!!!