Starting to Sew Clothes for the first time...

[Dracconia]

I am starting to make my own garb for the first time..and have no clue where to start! Any help would be great...
I have a sewing machine and patterns...I am even confussed on material! Help!

[Cilean]

What the heck happened to this site?


Okay so you want to sew, if you have any commerical patterns? Throw them out!

If you are new? I would suggest going for the patterns made specifically for people who want to do Faire and SCA.

Plus? They come with good advice about fabric information and lining and that sort of thing.

www.MargosPatterns.com

www.Reconstructinghistory.com

www.TudorTailor.com

All 3 of these sites have Yahoo Groups as well so that you can ask as many questions as you want as well as here!!

I hope these help!
Cilean

[Hoowil]

I don't know about throwing commercial patterns out. I've never used them myself (for garb, anyway), but some can be an easy place to start, and I've heard mention of a number of them on the forums. Granted, most can use some adjustments. Looking for more h/a patterns, and costuming sites is a good idea though.

Do you have a general idea of what you want to do? Class, region, and specifec era can effect design and fabrics used.

My number one suggestion, regardless, is get lots of muslin, or other cheap fabric. Anything on clearance. If its around or under a buck a yard, try it. Then practice. Alot. Do not try a new pattern in the material you want to use in the end. Mock ups and practice runs can help fix sizing issues, and get you used to working with the fabric. And if/when something goes wrong, you've not lost or ruined your material. Its an extra step, and can take extra time, but if you start off with linens, or brocades, or even silks an velvets for upper class garb, and have a problem, it can get rather expensive. Or be a real pain the the rear end if it means you have to find more material that matches.

Second suggestion, get a bigger closet. Garb making turns into a fabric habit that can be nearly unbeatable  .

There are some awesome sewers around here, and they are generally very willing to help out.

[sealion]

If you tell us which patterns you have purchased we can make fabric suggestions and let you know what adjustments you might want to make. And, yes, sewing garb is addicting! 

[DonaCatalina]

I use commercial patterns. Sometimes as many as four different ones at the same time.

For fabrics, try to stay with natural fabrics like cotton and linen for your first efforts. Cotton is easier to work with than 100% linen because 'generally' the weave is tighter.

Wash your fabrics before you cut, by hand if neccesary.
Have someone take all of your measurements before you cut any fabric. Compare these to the measurements on the pattern.

keep a supply of white backed wrapping paper on hand so that you can trace pattern pieces for re-sizing. This is especially true if you need to enlarge the pattern in any sopt.

Lining your bodice with cotton duck or even just cotton helps your garment hold its shape. It also improves durability. The forepart of my bodices can be as much as 4 layers thick. I try to limit the underarm area to 2 layers.

Think about you might be able to sew the trim on before you assemble anything.

Just a little bit to start with here.......

[Athena]

I'm also a beginner and I use commercial patterns. You can get them for peanuts when JoAnn has sales, and the skirt & chemise patterns are easy. Take your time and start off with simple projects. Keep a seam ripper close by, it will be your best friend! 

[mellingera]

I just started making garb last year. I use commercial patterns, but I alter them to suite my needs (like drafting out darts and princess seams). After following a pattern once or twice, I have learned how to mix and match pattern pieces from different outfits together.
As for the seam ripper, Athena is spot on with that one...
I second Dona Catalina post in its entirety. I have not yet been brave enough to venture towards linen yet and I also add at least 1 layer of sturdy fabric as an inner lining for bodices.
This is where the dress diary thread would be handy.... stupid hackers...
Here is mine, if it helps... http://ladyselwyn.renspace.com

[uhurainmi]

my sister in law calls it 'picking out seams' and she also calls it the 'ZEN OF UNSEWING'. hahahaaa!

There is a wealth of dress diaries on line http://muse.redserenity.com/links.html and wealth of good sewing advice here. People are really helpful for even the most basic questions. Good luck to you and remember to post some pictures along the way.

Cindy

[Hoowil]

keep a supply of white backed wrapping paper on hand so that you can trace pattern pieces for re-sizing. This is especially true if you need to enlarge the pattern in any sopt.

I use brown wrapping paper, like the stuff for packages. You can get big rolls of the stuff, and it holds together pretty good. Wrapping paper that has the grid on the back can be real useful though.

[Annastina]

This site I really like http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm is great for instructions in simple sewing without patterns.  I've made a skirt and a chemise.  The skirt is great, and I plan on making more.  The chemise didn't fit right, but now I know what corrections to make.

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

Wash your fabrics before you cut, by hand if neccesary.

Dona, a question for you.  I, too, will work on my first skirts on Monday night.  A friend who sews is going to help me.  When I wash the fabrics, will the cut sides unravel?  Do I need to sew a straight line at their edges before I wash, or will the fraying be minimal?  It's cotton fabric.

Thank you.

After looking at the marvelous things everybody has made for over 2 years, I'm finally going to try making something!

Renee

[gem]

Lady Renee, it depends.  I *always* zigzag linen before washing (but I run my linen through three or four times for shrinkage).  A basic cotton broadcloth will fray a little, but it won't completely fall to nothing in the wash.  I don't bother stitching the edges.  If you're worried, do a test snip and see how much fraying there is.  It's the fabrics that fray if they're *looked* at you want to worry about: satin, tapestry, linen, etc.

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

Thanks, gem, for the advice.  I shall heed it!  Hope my first attempt comes out decently.  I want to wear the skirts to RenDezvous.

[Lady L]

I use commercial patterns too. I also make changes to them and combine sleeves from one with a bodice from another, for example. They are a good place to start and when you feel comfortable with sewing, you can branch out to drafting your own patterns or buying the more complicated historical patterns. A chemise or blouse are quite easy to make, as they are not fitted and have a lot of room. Skirts can be a rectangle, with a waistband or casing at the top and hem at the bottom. Do you have anyone that can show you the basics of sewing to get you started? If not, there are instructions online. Reddawn is a good site, as mentioned before.

[Kate XXXXXX]

There's nothing wrong with using a commercial pattern.  Just be aware that they are very variable as to historical accuracy, fit, and readability!  you'll get used to them!  Just be sure to buy to measurements, not what you are used to wearing in ready to wear clothing.

Start with something simple like a chemise.  Ask if you get stuck!  I see you have help, so be sure to keep pestering the help with every little question!  Anything you need to know in addition, just ask.

Now I'm dead nosy about these things...  What machine are you using?  I love sewing machines...