Starting to Sew Clothes for the first time...

[DonaCatalina]

Wash your fabrics before you cut, by hand if neccesary.

Dona, a question for you.  I, too, will work on my first skirts on Monday night.  A friend who sews is going to help me.  When I wash the fabrics, will the cut sides unravel?  Do I need to sew a straight line at their edges before I wash, or will the fraying be minimal?  It's cotton fabric.

Thank you.

After looking at the marvelous things everybody has made for over 2 years, I'm finally going to try making something!

Renee

The selvages will be ok, but anything that has been cut should be zigzaged to keep it from raveling.
If its less than 12 yards. I just sew the ends together before washing.
After washing I cut the seam open and have a fairly straight edge.

[nliedel]

Breathe in, breathe out, repeat. Put on pretty music. Did you say you had a pattern? What does it suggest fabric wise? You can do this, you really can. Believe me, if I can learn to flat fell a seam, anything is possible.

[Cilean]

I will further explain why I stated not to use Commerical Patterns and why I gave 3 different sites to help out.

#1. From what I gather the OP is a beginner, so I am using the premise that they are at that level in sewing as well.  Having spent time researching, I now know how to futz with the Commerical Patterns to get the look I am trying.  However, I never could have done that when I began.  The 3 sites I gave have specifically been designed with new and older sewer's in mind who are looking for a 'period' look and not a stage look. 

#2. Fabric choices- Margo's information that comes with her patterns give some really good advice, TudorTailor's Book is really a great choice to have to help you get the fabrics and the look you want/need, Kass McGann's site is also full of information and helpful hints.

#3. All 3 have Yahoo (and others I am sure) Groups, so that you can ask every single question you have always wanted or needed to ask, and they are really good at answering all of the questions.  If the people who created the pattern is not there, then there are wonderful sewer's on the lists who have encountered something that possibly could help you. So there is a built in support system, something not found in the Commerical Patterns.

So this is why I said that throwing out the commerical patterns and getting really good patterns from these sites would help in the long run.  I just wish when I began way back in the day that we had such to work with!!! How far my garbing would be if that had happened!!

So yep the Big 3 you can get cheaply, but then Caveat Emptor, the information on the patterns is not typically helpful for reenactors (unless you are doing the civil war things).

I still say, why waste the time and effort? Get a really good pattern and then you are starting out on a good foot!

Cilean

[Kate XXXXXX]

Because they are an easy place to start when you know nothing at all, they have some fun ideas for those who don't want 100% authenticity (and some GREAT ideas to build on for those going the fantasy route), and when on offer, they are cheap enough that you can buy two or three copies of a pattern, so it doesn't matter of you bollix it up first time round.   

Margo's patterns are great for those who want authenticity without the bother of drafting for yourself, but are very expensive.  Worth every penny (I do have some), but not a cheap option if you are just starting out and unsure of your liking for the craft.  Ditto The Tudor Tailor patterns: expensive to buy, or a big drafting investment in time to scale up from the book.  Not everyone enjoys that aspect of costuming, either.

Also,  while I find drafting and fidgetting with patterns and fabric a great solace in times of stress, others find the whole thing very stressful and want to start with something pre-tested, so don't want to start with that aspect.  Again, some people don't know how to go about the research: and we were all at that point somewhen!   

Basic sewing skills, some fabric off the sale tables, and a cheap sale offer pattern are sometimes a really  great place to start.  You can gain expertise and confidence,  and  come out with a relatively fast and very wearable first project.  I've often found when teaching that success like this early on is the trigger that  leads on to stuff like the Margo patterns, drafting for yourself, and other more complex, or just more scary (for some!) aspects of costuming.

There is nothing wrong with jumping in at the deep end and starting your historic costume adventures at a much higher level, if you already have good sewing skills, but a person new to sewing AND costuming might like to start at a simpler level that is easier to service, in terms of patterns, fabric, trims, and all the rest of the stuff needed for whatever branch of costuming appeals to them most.

[Baroness Doune]

Books!!!
Don't forget the books!
Books are helpful for learning basic sewing skills and as a reminder reference for more advanced sewers.  Here are a couple I have in my collection:
The Complete Book of Sewing - DK Publishing
Complete Guide to Sewing - Reader's Digest

Books specific to making garb:
The Tudor Tailor by by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies

I also find the manuals that go with Margo's Patterns to be extremely helpful.  The manuals are about the same size as the The Tudor Tailor book, but there is the extra bonus of the patterns.

The easiest place to start is with the information on the Elizabethan Costuming Page.
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/
For making corsets or bodices, which are the most difficult part of garb because they must be properly fitted to look right and be comfortable, the Corset Pattern Generator found on the Elizabethan Costuming Page is enormously helpful.
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/index.html
Once you have created a custom pattern with the corset pattern generator, you can use the instructions located on the same website to make a corset
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/corsets/howsew.html
or modify the pattern to make a bodice
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/kirtlepat/
or modify the pattern a little more to make a kirtle or petticoat bodies.
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/makekirtle.html

I use the pattern created by the Corset Pattern Generator to size corset and bodice patterns.  The method I use works for any pattern, whether one of the big 3 or one of the more historically accurate patterns.
The technique.
http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/tebodiceworkshop.html
The bodice that inspired the technique.
http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/renbodice.html
And before that, there were corsets.
http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/perfectcorset.html

I am making an Effigy corset this weekend using The Tudor Tailor pattern and sizing it via the above referenced technique.  I will taking pictures of the process and will provide a link to the webpage when finished.

[tigrlily64]

I am a beginner myself, and I would definitely say it's a lot easier not to use commercial patterns.  I startd with my chemise, and making that basically out of rectangles from a pattern I found on a site (I think it was reddawn) was a lot easier than using any pattern in my home ec class.  Plus, since you basically make your own pattern using your own measurements, it's pretty much guaranteed to fit.  However, that's just my 2 pence.

[gem]

There is nothing wrong with jumping in at the deep end and starting your historic costume adventures at a much higher level, if you already have good sewing skills, but a person new to sewing AND costuming might like to start at a simpler level that is easier to service, in terms of patterns, fabric, trims, and all the rest of the stuff needed for whatever branch of costuming appeals to them most.

Not to mention much cheaper!  Which is a huge consideration when you're new to a hobby.  $30 for a pattern is a pretty big investment, particularly on top of fabric and notions (and she may be starting with the basics--she may have to buy pins and scissors!).  I don't think most new seamstresses or tailors are probably ready for the emotional committment of a $30 pattern, an expensive book, or a pattern they have to draft themselves.

Likewise, I've been sewing for a while now, and still find online instructions and scale-up-yourself diagrams in books to be the hardest option (among the following: commercial or pro pattern, drafting & draping, or using a diagram). 

Since we don't know the OP or her sewing level or what her innate skills are, it's impossible for us to know what she is going to find most workable.  So that's why we're lead to recommending the resources she's going to find most easily *available.*  There's no sense making this journey more difficult by saying, "No--you can't use what you bought at JoAnn--it's wrong!"  I know one costumer on this board who's been making drool-worthy costumes for a bit now (she'll have a big announcement in the coming weeks)... and she told me she's *still* intimidated by books like TUDOR TAILOR! 

Everybody's skills are different; what everyone brings to the forum is different.  As Kate said, there's nothing wrong with pointing out the resources the diehard H/A among us rely on... but we don't want to tell people that's the *only* way they can participate in this hobby.

Besides, the OP didn't say what she was interested in making.  Maybe she wants a fairy costume or a pirate outfit to wear to her local fair....

[Cilean]

size=11pt]

I have had the worst time sizing up from a books!!  There is a class I am going to take hopefully over the summer which I hope will help me out on that subect.  I have had some success with fabric draping which seems to be easier for me. I thank the Sewing Gods for the Internet, because it gives me a chance to deal with so many people all over the world.   I tend to work more for H/A than anything else, I believe in using machines to achieve the look I want.  I have been working on 1 gown for the past year, more on just beading and pearling, I just want it to be done so I can wear the bloody thing!   


Cilean
[/size]

[mellingera]

Speaking for myself, as someone who just started to sew anything last spring, I would not have known where to start with books and drafting, nor did I have much money for something I was that new to trying to buy expensive patterns (however woeth their cost). I didn't know enough to realize JoAnn's put commercial patterns on sale for $1.99 EVER or sent 40% coupons to you home like candy! That being said, I bought a commercial skirt pattern at Walmart, some cotton broadcloth, and "splurged" on a home dec fabric for the front section of the skirt. Basically, without knowing, I had made an underskirt with a pretty built-in forepart... But the point is, I was able to do it all by myself (this was before I had found R/F), it was fun and exciting, and I was able to build my skills from there. Now I have a hankering to try my hand at this pattern drafting hoopla and have ordered myself a copy of the Tudor Tailor for myself. Had I been given that book at the begining, I can say for myself- I likely would have not bothered with any of it.

My point with that long winded tale, is that each beginer is different, not just in sewing skill, but in patience, dedication to new endevors, and creative ability. Your personal level on each of these continueums determins which route will work best for you. Those of us who want to be able to make a wearable finished product with minimum of hassel and expense find a good start in commercial patterns and from there can go where our hearts (and budgets) lead us.

*steps of soap box*
The original question was:

I am starting to make my own garb for the first time..and have no clue where to start! Any help would be great...
I have a sewing machine and patterns...I am even confussed on material! Help!

Dracconia, what pattern do you have and how accurate are you looking for? I think you may get more datailed direction if we know more about what you are trying to make.

{moderator} YEAH! now there is a fantasic question! {/moderator}

[Artemisia]

I never used patterns, even when I started this madness three years ago.
Reddawn's site is where I got my start too.
Then I learned the value of a well drafted sloper.

I read dress diaries, ask help from sewing forums, subscribe to Threads magazine and even send emails to select few for help when needed. This approach has always worked for me. (knockonheadknockonwood)

Though I have to admit I do have a small collection of fantasy garb patterns just waiting for me to break them open.

[FaireMare]

The theme I see right now is patterns...

Please remember that not everyone can figure out patterns from directions in a book.  I bet many of you started to learn the basics of sewing from patterns.  Some are terribly gifted in the engineering department. Most of us are not.

My suggestion is to do what you feel comfortable with and what you can get assistance with on a local basis.

{05/18/2008}  due to people being technical...  many of you starting leanring to sew by using patterns.  Not all of us got that "gem" of a teacher who taught you to sew with out a pattern.

[Baroness Doune]

Originally posted by Fairmare:
I bet many of you started to learn the basics of sewing from patterns.

Not really.  I learned the basics from my Home Economics teacher.

To learn sewing techniques from a pattern assumes one knows how to read and/or interpret a pattern.  Some do not.  Knowing where and how to take measurements and choosing the correct pattern size is a challenge for many.  The back of the pattern envelope is just so much gibberish unless one knows some sewing terminology and how to find the information needed. 

Sewing books and/or classes can help in that regard.

Sewing books need not be expensive.  That's what libraries are for.  If the local library does not have the book, try ILL.

If there is a Joann ETC nearby, the store will offer basic sewing classes.  Plus there is the opportunity to try out some of the newest models of sewing machines. 

Other options for classes are Adult Education classes offered by a community college, County Extension Office, etc.

[silverstah]

Wow - you've received some great advice here!   Since it sounds like you want to start with commercial patterns, I thought I'd throw in my .02 about which ones are good to start with.

Personally, for historical costume, I prefer Simplicity over McCall's or Butterick.  Simplicity seems to have the best designers for historical accuracy, and has a nice range of simple styles to more complex stuff for you to grow into.

When working with historical patterns (or any pattern!), it's always best to do a mockup (sometimes referred to as a "muslin") before cutting into your good fabric.  Different patterns will lie on the body differently, and commercial patterns have a huge amount of ease that you need to take into consideration when fitting historical bodices. 

http://simplicity.com/assets/3623/3623t.jpg - Simplicity 3623 - their basic 'Celtic Ensemble'.  This is a great basic pattern that gives you a chemise, skirt, bodice and overdress.  When making this pattern, I'd be sure to make the skirt to wear under the overdress (they show just the chemise and dress) - or else it'll look like you're running around in your undies!

http://simplicity.com/assets/3782/3782.jpg - Simplicity 3782 - This is their current Elizabethan pattern, and it's the best one out there in the big 3.  The red dress with the doublet bodice is pretty much spot-on.

Those are my two favorites out of the current Simplicity catalog.

As others have said - when choosing fabrics, try to stick with natural fabrics as much as possible (like linen, wool, cotton, etc).  They are much more comfortable than man-made fabrics like polyester.  Poly will trap the heat next to your body, which will make you miserable in the summer heat!

Google "dress diary" and you'll come up with a TON of websites dedicated specifically to recreating historical costume.  I've learned a lot just by reading those diaries - there are a million tips, tricks, and techniques out there to help you out.

If you're just starting out, I would second the suggestion to look into a basic sewing class through your local fabric store or community college.  You can definitely teach yourself, but most folks have an easier time of it if you have someone show you the very basic basics first.

Good luck!

Good luck!


{moderator} WOW... this was an excellent Response!  I am printing it for our costuming meeting next week.  Thanks. {/moderator}

[Lady Anne Clare]

http://simplicity.com/assets/3623/3623t.jpg - Simplicity 3623 - their basic 'Celtic Ensemble'.  This is a great basic pattern that gives you a chemise, skirt, bodice and overdress.  When making this pattern, I'd be sure to make the skirt to wear under the overdress (they show just the chemise and dress) - or else it'll look like you're running around in your undies!

http://simplicity.com/assets/3782/3782.jpg - Simplicity 3782 - This is their current Elizabethan pattern, and it's the best one out there in the big 3.  The red dress with the doublet bodice is pretty much spot-on.

I too prefer Simplicity over the other two companies, but that's not saying that I don't have patterns from the other two.  The two above mentioned patterns I have.  I've made the first one (the dress on the right) as my very first garb and am making the second one (also the dress on the right) as we speak.  I can say I got confused on how to put on trim for the shirt on the first pattern and I messaged simplicity for clarification.  Sure enough I did get a response a day or so later, it felt condescending in tone but it had the info I was needing.  I suggest reading through the instructions before you cut anything.

I'm also a beginner garb maker but I like the challenge of making whatever it is my heart desires regardless of sewing level.

Good luck and most of all have fun 

[CountessofPhoenix]

I've been sewing for 37 years. I've been making garb for fair for 8. I've had many request for portraits wearing my garb constructed out of bargain fabrics and patterns from the big 3. I feel as "authentic" in my polyester garment as I suspect others do their H/A costumes. It was my understanding that all of this is supposed to be fun. I do want to do a more h/a garment, time, talent, and funds permitting. I just would hate for someone new to all of this to feel discouraged that they are doing it wrong. I agree with our moderator please ask questions. One of them probably should be the price that they are looking to invest. A 99 cent pattern and $1 a yard fabric can make a person feel like a queen. Creating something yourself is one of the greatest rewards around, and sewing is rapidly becoming a lost art.


{moderator} thank you.... you put it so wonderfully well. {/moderator}