Bodice help

[Margrett]

Most of my bodices are four layers--the duck/canvas layer IS the boning layer (and is often my mockup as well, which then converts to being the boning layer), then I add a lining layer on the inside and a fashion fabric layer on the outside.

Margrett

[Dayna]

Yes, what Margrett said, sandwich the boning between two layers, then apply a front fabric and a lining.

Dayna

[tigrlily64]

I've always seen the outside and inside referred to as being made out of fashion fabric-what exactly does this mean?  Any fabric that looks good?  Or should I stick to a certain fiber content/weight?  I know natural fibers are always the best, ny other recommendations?

[Lorraine]

The outer fashion fabric is usually a brocade, damask, silk, or velvet. I do the outer fabric, two layers of duck for the bone channels (or 1 layer if I'm using bone casing), and cotton twill for the lining since it's not as rough but almost as strong as the duck.

[tigrlily64]

What about for a peasant?  I'm guessing less expensive fabrics would be used.  Also, Baroness Doune refers to making a turned bodice.  I'm guessing this means you sew it inside out, the turn it, but I really can't picture it, especially with the boning.  How does this work?  And is there any way to make an unturned bodice?

Also, if anyone's curious, I made two mock-ups, size 8 and ten, and decided to make the ten.

[Lorraine]

To make a turned bodice you sew the boning channels, sew one edge shut (for mine usually the neckline and straps), turn it inside out, sew the sides, insert the boning, and handstitch or edgestitch the bottom closed. Most people use upholstery fabrics for peasant, or you could go with wool if you wanted to stick to natural fabrics.

[Dinobabe]

I did a turned bodice.  Sewed the boning into the lining first, sewed that into the fabric, turned the whole thing.  The plastic zip ties are very flexible!

[tigrlily64]

Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to buy cotton duck for the boning channels, and upholstery fabric for the outer layer.

I'm still really confused about sewing a turned bodice.  Is there any way to do an un-turned bodice?

[Taffy Saltwater]

If you don't want to turn it, you could finish it w/bias trim.

[Goody]

After all the reading I've done over the years I believe 6 layers is right. In the bodice I'm  making I did 2 muslin layers for the boning, then canvas on either side, then front fashion fab, and inside/lining.

Most of my bodices are four layers--the duck/canvas layer IS the boning layer (and is often my mockup as well, which then converts to being the boning layer), then I add a lining layer on the inside and a fashion fabric layer on the outside.

Margrett

That is how I did my first few but liked having canvas in between the boning and fashion fabric so you can't see the boning channels through. I believe this is a tip I got from Lady Kathleen ?? but instead muslin she uses all canvas?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Goody!!

When I do a Bodice muslin, I do that so the client I am making a bodice for, gets the correct fit. My muslin is an exact copy that I use for the actual pattern for after adjustments are done to avoid poor fit.

The actual Bodice itself is underlined in 2 layers of Cotton Canvas Duck where I make the boning channels. If the fashion fabric is too light, I underline it with Broadcloth to give it more stability. Then the lining underneath. There can be 4 to 5 layers all together.

Hope this helps you.

[Goody]

Thanks Lady K!

[Lady Rebecca]

With my middle class (front lacing) bodice, I used sew-in interfacing (the heaviest one they had at Hancocks) and sewed it to the cotton lining. Then I did boning channels out of bias tape (31 in all) and used cable ties for the boning. I found this awesome sort of country-colored plaid quilted upholstery remnant, and used that for my outside. I stitched the outside to the inside, and used burgundy bias tape (it matched the burgundy of the plaid) to bind it all. Then I added waist and shoulder tabs of cotton, the quilted fabric, and iron-on interfacing, which I turned at the edges, And the finishing touch were hand sewn cotton burgundy shoulder rolls. I'm really pleased with it, and it's pretty much as stiff as a corset, because of all the boning.

My gown bodice was fairly similar, but the boning was laid out very differently (it laces up the sides of the back) and I used canvas interlining (that I attached the boning channels to), instead of interfacing.

[tigrlily64]

Does anyone have any clear, step-bystep instructions for making a turned bodice?  Preferably with pictures?  Thanks in advance!

[Lady Rebecca]

Does anyone have any opinions to if a turned bodice is better than a bound bodice or not? I haven't tried one, but it seems like it would be very difficult.