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Underskirt Advice

Started by Celtic_Fae, May 20, 2009, 10:35:30 PM

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Celtic_Fae

The overskirt will be made of cotton velveteen. However, since I've only seen gowns where the forepart was "faked" (i.e. sewn as one piece to the overskirt) with no separate underskirt, I have no idea as to what materials to use for the underskirt. I have a pattern, that's not the problem. My question is, can I use the material I want for the forepart for the entire underskirt, or is that a no-no?

Lady Rebecca

That's what I did when I made my gown, but I wanted it to be as usable as possible, so I can mix and match all my pieces with future projects. Of course, even with the fabric on sale, the underskirt alone was about $80.  :-[

Hoowil

I would venture that making the entire thing out of the forepart fashion fabric would make it easier to deal with, as you wouldn't habe to worry about the other fabric showing, but for weight and cost it would be easier to make only the visable part out of what you want shown. But thats just me. I wonder if you could make one underskirt out of three (or more) panels, each with a different material so as to have three (or more) foreparted underskirts in one....
Well, thats my two bits.
Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for thou art crunchy and taste good with catsup.

Celtic_Fae


Tygrkat

That's the way the underskirt for my noble gown is made - most of the skirt is a lightweight cotton, which kept expense low and is more comfortable in warmer weather; and the forepart is made of the dupioni silk that the chemise is made from - it came together beautifully,  and didn't eat up my entire budget  :)
50% Endora, 50% Aunt Clara.

sealion

It is completely acceptable (and historically accurate) to make the underskirt of a plain less expensive fabric with just the front panel make of the more expensive fabric. If the forepart is elaborately embroidered and/or beaded you may wish to make it completely seperate and just baste or pin it in place so that it can be removed when the underskirt is laundered.
Cindy/Ciana Leonardi di Firenze/Captain Cin

DonaCatalina

Quote from: Tygrkat on May 21, 2009, 05:57:13 AM
That's the way the underskirt for my noble gown is made - most of the skirt is a lightweight cotton, which kept expense low and is more comfortable in warmer weather; and the forepart is made of the dupioni silk that the chemise is made from - it came together beautifully,  and didn't eat up my entire budget  :)

I've done it all three ways. Having the heavy cotton brocade for the visible part and lightweight cotton for the rest does lighten the load, and the expense.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Lady Rebecca

Quote from: Hoowil on May 21, 2009, 01:58:02 AM
I wonder if you could make one underskirt out of three (or more) panels, each with a different material so as to have three (or more) foreparted underskirts in one....
Well, thats my two bits.
That's such a neat idea! I never would have thought of that before.

LadyShadow

I agree.  I might have to try that one out.
May the stars always shine upon you and yours.

Royal Order of Landsharks Guppy # 98 :)

captmarga

Quote from: Lady Rebecca on May 21, 2009, 09:38:06 AM
Quote from: Hoowil on May 21, 2009, 01:58:02 AM
I wonder if you could make one underskirt out of three (or more) panels, each with a different material so as to have three (or more) foreparted underskirts in one....
Well, thats my two bits.
That's such a neat idea! I never would have thought of that before.

One of the ladies on cast down here at Scarborough has such a skirt.  While I find it a nifty idea, I also see drawbacks.  It has Rrrrr'd (angel tears from the sky) several weekends down here this year.  This results in a rich soupy slurry of dark brown mud.

The hemlines and often higher on our gowns are about guaranteed to have mud on them somewhere.  If the RRRR is really bad, the dress can be soaked.

We're about to have our final weekend, which is three days.

Apart from my leather bodice (though I have two of those), I have three underskirts, two overskirts, and three chemises washed and ready for this weekend.  I also have a R-day closed skirt I can use if the lanes are badly muddy (as two of my underskirts are white-based).  This way if the lanes are icky, I don't have to run home and wash everything.

Having two full interchangeable underskirts, even of the same color, means less over-night emergency washing and drying.  That's the main drawback I see, other than having a full set of clothing in which to dress others (which I have done as well).

That's me, I guess.  I rarely remake older stuff, which may be why I have everything from Greek to medieval, Fantasy Tudor, Tudor, Elizabethan,  Victorian... etc, etc.

Capt Marga
Corp Capt Marga, Dame Den Mother, Scarborough Royal Guard.  Keeper of the Costume Closet.  Artist, Rennie, Etc, etc, etc

Celtic_Fae

I happened upon this gold jacquard for only $7.98/yard. Would this be a suitable underskirt material or should I look for a more silky material for an underskirt? I'm thinking that the velveteen overskirt would be made of navy blue or hunter green.




DonaCatalina

I would try to see the two fabrics together. They may look great apart;
but you may not think so when they're right on top of each other.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Celtic_Fae

What would be the best material for an underskirt? Jacquard, taffeta, brocade, other? Forgive me. This is my first BIG female garb project.

Adriana Rose

Like the others have said there is a wau to lighten the pinch on your wallet is to get enough of the fabric that you want for your forepart and then use a lighter fabric like linen, cotton, or something on that keel.

then you cut the forpart out of the pretty and then you can cut the rest of the skirt out of the lighter weight materials.

But if you want to go with the fabric that you find nicer, all the ones that you listed are very nice!

Imestra

Oooo, green & gold! Yummy color combo!
We are all of us in the gutters, but some of us are lookin at the stars

mollymishap

Kathryn, you can do whatever you like or your budget allows.  I've seen foreparts that were incredibly rich (and therefore only covered the front of the (separate) underskirt, and I've seen others that were OK and went all around as it were (I have both kinds). 

Hoowil, I have had the thought of multiple panels, but the problem with that idea is that our backsides tend to require a longer length of fabric in the back, so when you turn the panels around, you'd wind up tripping on the hem.  Conversely, you could just make the hems even all around, but then you'd wind up with the hoops showing in the back unless you wear a petticoat under the underskirt.  My suggestion would be to make up those panels separately and then pin them to the underskirt one at a time as you need them. 

But anyway, back to the main question.  Know your budget, your time, and your fabric Katheryn, and you can go on from there.  If you're on cast, I'd be asking these questions of the costume director.  If you're a patron, wear what you like and have FUN!!!

Miranda

I have one underskirt made of a neutral brown linen.  I can use it with any of my foreparts and any of my gowns.  To fasten my foreparts to my skirt, I use the super sized sew on snaps.  It works really well.

If you use a neutral color, or one that corresponds with the color of the overskirt, it is far less jarring if the underskirt does get exposed.
Lady Margaret Howard -The Order of St. Thomas More.