Advice needed about boning in a McCalls’ pattern.

[Kehle]

I'm using the pattern shown here http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4696.htm for my newest top. I don't know how to alter patterns yet, but this one does not call for any boning. Is that going to be a problem? Should I brave stepping out of my protective little box to try and add some boning and if I should, how do I go about that?

The way the garment is put together doesn't really leave places for the boning to be slipped in, should I alter how it's put together and then use bias tape around the edges? If I do that would I need to do it around all the edges, or could I get away with just doing it around the bottom and maybe the outside of the arm holes. I wouldn't want it to get in the way of any fancy trim I'd want to add.

Has anyone tried this pattern before and how well does it hold it's shape without boning?

Thanks. ?

[gem]

Egads. Where do I begin?

I have not made THAT particular McCall's bodice, but I have made *a* McCall's bodice pattern, and I'm guessing this one is probably pretty similar.  Here's what you need to know, even before you get to the issue of boning, since boning is only part of the story:

1. They run large.  Check the finished garment measurements to make sure they haven't added any ease (ideally, you want the measurement that *matches* your own, or is slightly smaller).  You may have to gown down a size (or several) to get the proper fit.  I remember seeing a photograph of this bodice made up, in the McCall's catalogue, and it didn't even come close to fitting the model properly.  It hung on her like a sack.  A bodice should be VERY FITTED.  If it's too loose, it will be uncomfortable and it will look sloppy.  So SIZE THAT BABY DOWN!

2. The princess seams.  Those seams that create the contrast center panel are designed to gently curve over the bust.  That might not get you the support/look you want in a bodice, since "curving gently over the bust" is generally exactly what you *don't* want a bodice to do.  You want it to compress and lift.  If you're not very full-busted and/or you're planning to wear a bra under the bodice, this might be OK.  If you'd like the option, however, you can always draft out the princess seams.  Here's a link to some super instructions on how to do just that.  If Lorraine sees this post, I hope she posts her fabulous pictures of bodices with and without princess seams, so you can see the difference.

3. What you line it with.  I'm not sure what the construction of that bodice is, but you always have the option (which I recommend) of interlining it with two layers of heavy cotton canvas, which is where you'd place the boning.  Even if you DON'T decide to use boning, the canvas will go a long way toward adding structure and helping the bodice, as you say, "keep its shape."  The gown I'm wearing in my avatar has boning only at the lacing edges--otherwise, it's stiffened only with canvas. It's very sturdy, even after a few seasons' hard wearing.  It does have a few horizontal wrinkles, however, which more boning would prevent.

4. Boning.  I'm not sure where you'd place the boning with the princess seams, but here's an example of a boning diagram to get you started.  A lot of us use heavy-duty plastic cable ties for boning, which will be stronger than the boning you can buy in your fabric store.  You want the heavy-duty ones, though.  They're usually about 36" long and 3/8" wide (see here, in comparison to "normal" cable ties.).

5. Further reading.  A site I recommend frequently is my friend Baroness Doune's page on bodices.  There's a ton of fantastic reading there.  Baroness Doune teaches a workshop on bodice fit that some members here have taken and recommend highly.   There's also another recent, really long thread on bodice fit that discusses a lot of these issues.  Tigrlily's Bodice Thread.

Good luck!  Creating a properly fitted bodice can be challenging, but it's worth it!

[Kehle]

 Wow, that's a lot of information. I feel overwhelmed. 

I'm afraid of garments that are too fitted. I get hot easy and if I feel constricted in anyway I'll think I can't breath and may panic. I'm very big up top and don't really want too much compression (as that's very uncomfortable) or too much lift for fear they might pop out the top.

I like the princess seams. I plan on putting a contrasting piece in the middle. Besides that, I'm a big girl and want the vertical lines.

I actually haven't bought the lining yet, and will be limited to the stuff on the $1 a yard rack at Wall-Mart. Canvas sounds interesting though.

I'm still absorbing everything you said, thanks for responding. ?

[Dinobabe]

I have made this bodice and it does fit large.  The shapes of the pattern pieces aren't quite right either.  I would follow the redraft instructions and you can just upsize the top so you aren't so constricted.  Make it out of cheap fabric or even newspaper first.
This is also a great thread
http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=6107.0

Check out your local fabric store in the remnants sections.  Great finds for a great price!  Good looking garb doesn't have to come at a price! 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Making a bodice can be overwhelming at first.

I do concur with gem that using Cotton Canvas Duck, at least 2 layers, will give your bodice a better fit, then you main fabric and a sturdy cotton lining. I believe in underlining Bodices with the Canvas Duck for good measure. The bodice wears better over the years.

[Elennare]

I have made this bodice.  I wasn't going for historical accuracy, so I left the princess seams in.  I think they look pretty.

When I made it, I decided to make it fully reversable-green with black contrast on one side, and black with green contrast on the other.  I sewed one side ("outside"), then sewed all the seam allowances down to make boning chanels (press to side, sew to garment).  Sewed the other side ("lining") together and then sewed the outside and lining together. At this point I added boning along the lacing edges by sewing the edges of the seam allowance from sewing the outside and lining together to make the channel.  I then turned and finished it.

I had two take several inches out of the bust, and adjust the waist as well, to make it flow smoothly.  I didn't realize just how much I needed to take in until I had finished the bodice (didn't make a good enough mock up).  I also didn't realize that the straps were too long until I tried to add the sleeves.  Then they get pulled down my shoulders.  I have yet to fix that problem.  It doesn't give much lift (you won't be showing much cleavage), but having boned it and taken it in so it fits quite snugly, I get pretty good support-don't have to wear a bra under it.

It won't hold it's shape w/o boning at least along the lacing edges-they will pucker like no tomorrow.  I still have a bit of an issue with it puckering on the sides...one of these days I'll get around to putting stiffer boning in to fix that...probably at the same time I fix the straps.    If you don't bone the rest of it, it won't give you much, if any, support-espically if you don't adjust the fit so it's tight.

All that said, it's a very pretty bodice.  How much work you will need to put into it will be determine by how you want it to fit and how historically accurate you want it to be. 

[Adriana Rose]

For the super annoying lacing puckering run a zip tie or a cable tie about 1 or 2 inches away from where your grommets will live and that will keep it from being naughty.

[Elennare]

Oooo...Good idea!  Have boning on both sides of the grommets.  Would it also work for fixing already existing issues?  If I just added another boning channel next to my grommets, instead of trying to squeeze a cable tie in the channel along the lacing edge that was made for featherweight boning?  That would be a way-easy fix if it would work...