Margo Anderson split skirting/side back opening bodice

[Erynn]

I'm to the (last) point of my bodice where I need to make and attach the waist treatment. I'm using Margo Anderson's Working Woman pattern and have a side back opening bodice. The split skirting is just not clicking in my brain though with adapting it to a side back opening. Should I just cut the Side Back Skirting piece where the opening is and leave the Side Front piece the same? Should I adjust the two Side pieces so they are the same length? And then what about the back piece? Should I just have one piece in the center, or should I have 2?

Any help would be great. I just can't wrap my mind around this.

And for clarity, here is the bodice so far (Note, it wasn't sitting straight in either of these) and here is the sketch

[mollymishap]

(Hi, Erynn!)

Maybe this will help you wrap your brain around how to make attaching the skirt work:  Whether you're creating a front opening or not, imagine like the opening isn't there for right now.  Imagine that you've  made the whole skirt all the way 'round without an opening of any kind.  Now imagine that you're making an 8" or so slit at the side back at the point at which one of the openings of the bodice is in the back.  Now imagine that the when you attach the skirt to the bodice, and you lace the bodice closed, the folds in the skirt should hide the join.  If you think they wont, add some hooks & eyes. 

I hope that helps clarify it some!  If you decide you do want the skirt front opening, it won't matter, since it won't "open" in the front, it'll be "split" in the front.  It will open in the side back.

(Great work, btw!)

[gem]

Molly!  I *heart* you--that explanation was brilliant--clear and concise and completely understandable!

[sealion]

I have the instructions for the ladies wardrobe rather than the working woman's wardrobe so I'm only guessing that the bodice skirting is the same but, honestly, I find the instructions a bit unclear. Here's what I would do for the side-back laced bodice: Cut the two more pointed skirting pieces that start at the center front, then cut two pieces that fit the space from the first piece to the openings of the bodice, then cut one piece to fit across the back between the two openings for a total of five skirting pieces.
BTW- I love the shoulder treatment!

[sealion]

Okay, Erynn, now I'm totally confused! LOL Are you asking about how to make the slits in the skirt or how to add skirting tabs to the bodice???

[Baroness Doune]

Erynn,
I don't see anything in the pattern directions for using split skirting with a side back seam closing bodice.

You are going to have to play with some fabric.  Try cutting the various pattern pieces out of scrap fabric, without seam allowances on the bottom and fold the seam allowance at the side of the pieces back and pin to hold the seam allowances out of the way.  Pin the pieces to the bottom of the bodice.  See how you like the effect.  Unfold part or all of the side seam allowances, if necessary.  Cut different size pieces, if necessary.   Trim bits off, if necessary.  Keep adjusting till the pieces look right to your eye and work with the split at the side back seam of the bodice.

Then use the altered pieces as your pattern.  Add seam allowances back in.

[Erynn]

Thanks for the tips everyone! I've never done anything like this skirting before, so I was quite unsure about what to do. I'll attack the pieces tomorrow and hopefully get it figured out.

First though, I'm going to do a victory dance, because I took a closer look at my bloomers and discovered I could fix the fit problem without having to remake the whole thing. I thought I only had small seam allowances, but instead I had a big enough allowance to add about 2 inches to the waist! *dances*

[FaireMare]

It took me acouple times re-reading the post and looking at the sketch..

Are you talking abou the tabs on the bodice as shown in your sketch?  If so, Molly's Directions are wonderful!

[Erynn]

Sorry for the confusion. My attempts at describing something without witting a book always fail.

But yes, I did mean the skirting *tabs*,

[FaireMare]

No Problem....

Molly's Suggestion is what I would do.

In my expereince the 'tabs" are applied individually anyway. Usually before you turn the bodice, but I dont see why they can not be added now.