Last Promenade bodice mockup thread: Making the neckline higher? (image heavy)

[gem]

Ok, so!  I have one that fits!  Yay!  Excuse the taken-in-the-mirror pix; these are from my class last night.

There are a couple of tweaks I'm going to make to the final (like making room for eyelets! Ha! And making the front armscye shallower so I can add another couple eyelets and tweak the fit in the bust even more.), but basically, I'm just about there.



But, as you can see when it's draped with the damask, the neckline is still way too low--we're at corset-height here:


So... any suggestions?  I mean, the neckline of a gown is *supposed* to be higher than the neckline of your corset, so what am I missing?

I tacked a 2-inch strip of canvas in place, and pulled it taut to the straps, and it did draw the neckline closer in, but I'm looking for advice on how to finesse that, without resorting to a separate strip like that.



I was looking at Drea Leeds's red kirtle, and tho' the picture is absolutely teeny, you *can* see where the boned part ends and how it slants inward *above* that, fitting snugly to her chest. Does anyone know how she did that?

Two more questions:
1. The straps right now are cut as integral with the back, and come down over the shoulders and are sewn to the neckline.  I would prefer that that seam be somewhere less visible (except, duh, I'm covering it with beading and trim, right?  So why do I care??).  Heck, I'm asking anyway!  I *wanted* the seam to be just behind the shoulder, but my instructor thinks that I won't be able to cut the straps as integral with the front piece, and still have them give any support.  Yes?  No?  Does it now not matter? LOL

2. The damask I'm using is a finely woven cotton, and I don't want all those ridges from the boning to be so visible.  The pattern obscures them some, but I'm wondering if there's some way of lightly padding them (like with really thin batting), without adding too much more bulk or heat (so, of course, not batting!).

Gramercy!  And do a little happy dance with me, too!  I may be able to continue sewing after all! (I told Milord that if I could not get this bodice to fit properly, I was selling my machine and finding a new hobby!)

[Marietta Graziella]

Gem, I can offer no help.  I just wanted to say that I think you're lovely.

Happy sewing! 

[Genievea Brookstone]

The only thing I can think of to help hide the boning ridges is perhaps a thin cotton layer? With the corset I am making I double lined the inside because I actually didn't like the feeling of the duck with just one layer of cotton and inturn helped to also hide the boning from the inside. I know you are talking about the front but it could serve the same purpose and it doesn't add any more bulk of you just use the one extra layer.

Just an idea from a newbie

[Kate XXXXXX]

Try a layer of cotton flannel (from quilting shops of you can't find it elsewhere) between the boning layer and the fashion fabric.

As for how Drea did her bodice - ask her!  Send her an email.  She was very helpful the time I needed to ask her something.

[Elennare]

I'm far from an expert on this sort of thing, but here's what I would do to make the neckline higher.

I assume you're taking the mock-up apart and using it as your pattern?  Going with that idea, I would leave the extra strip attached to the mockup.  Get it adjusted exactly how you want it, then take the mock-up apart in whatever fashing you were planning to to make your pattern.  Leave the strip attached, and pretend that it's part of the front and not tacked on when you're cutting out your fabric.

If you want to be extra sure it'll work, make a second mock-up.  Or at least a second copy of the front, if the whole thing would be too much work.

[gem]

Cotton flannel!  Yes, that's what I was trying to remember.  My sewing class is at a quilt shop, so they may have some (or can point me to it). Cotton felt is what I was trying to remember; my brain was melting.

Elennare, I think that's what I'm planning to do.  I also think I'm going to cut the entire neckline higher *and bone it all*.  Anea posted a link in Chris's lacing thread, to a diary with an amazing silk kirtle, which immediately showed me I'm probably just not cutting the thing long/high enough to begin with.  It also looks like there's much more room for me to work with in making the armscye shallower.

I am wondering how to make it higher without making it *wider* (and thus larger/looser in the bust), so if anyone has suggestions there...

Kate, I *did* actually email Drea Leeds, shortly after posting this thread, but I've yet to hear anything back.  At least now I have a plan if I don't hear back!

[operafantomet]

Anea posted a link in Chris's lacing thread, to a diary with an amazing silk kirtle, which immediately showed me I'm probably just not cutting the thing long/high enough to begin with.  It also looks like there's much more room for me to work with in making the armscye shallower.

Glad you found it useful/inspirative! Eva make the most wonderful garbs, I love reading about her research and progress on projects. Be sure to check out her other work as well (especially the Uvdal dress!):
http://web.comhem.se/~u31138198/costumegallery.html