Attaching a skirt to a bodice, on a noble gown

[Valencia]

I made a noble gown that is currently in two pieces; the bodice, which closes in the back, and the skirt, which closes in the front.  The skirt is knife pleated.  I wore the gown to faire yesterday as it; and predictably, the two pieces don't lay as nicely as they could. I don't want to cut a slit in the back of the skirt to permanently attach the two pieces, because I think it will disrupt the lines of the knife pleating (maybe I'm wrong on this?) The other option I thought of was to permanently mount one side of the skirt to the bodice, and then use hooks to attach the other side of the skirt after I put the two pieces on.  Does anyone have thoughts / feedback on this? Or a better idea?

[lys1022]

I have four pairs of grommet holes in my skirt waistband and my corset, one pair on each side in the front and one pair on each side in the back.  I use a small length of lacing and pass it through the skirt then the bodice, tying it in a bow.  This serves several purposes:

• it keeps the skirt and the bodice lying properly against each other
• the weight of the skirts keeps my bodice from sliding up during the day (especially when I sit down)
• the bodice holds the skirt up so that it doesn't slip, causing me to trip and it keeps the weight of the skirts off my hips so I'm not sore at the end of the day.

I find that it's really a lot more comfortable and there's MUCH less clothing slippage! 

[Valencia]

I have four pairs of grommet holes in my skirt waistband and my corset, one pair on each side in the front and one pair on each side in the back.  I use a small length of lacing and pass it through the skirt then the bodice, tying it in a bow.  This serves several purposes:

• it keeps the skirt and the bodice lying properly against each other
• the weight of the skirts keeps my bodice from sliding up during the day (especially when I sit down)
• the bodice holds the skirt up so that it doesn't slip, causing me to trip and it keeps the weight of the skirts off my hips so I'm not sore at the end of the day.

I find that it's really a lot more comfortable and there's MUCH less clothing slippage! 

The grommets are built into the bodice? Do you have any pictures? That sounds like a great idea, and still keeps the pieces separate.  I would love to see pictures. I hand sew my eyelets, but I'm assuming I could do that with this idea, right? Thanks for posting this!

[Baroness Doune]

I put thread bars at the junction between the skirt waistband and the pleating/gathering of the top of the skirt - 2 or 3 thread bars in the back (center back, if possible, and below the side back seams) and 2 in the front (I suppose you could say directly below the apex of the breast.)  Then I sew hooks to the underside of the bodice to match the location of the thread bars on the skirt.   I have done this for years and I have never had gapiosis.  I first found out about the technique from Period Costume for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett

Attack Laurel recently posted this in her LJ.
http://attack-laurel.livejournal.com/72581.html
I thought it was an inspired solution.

[Valencia]

ooh, thanks, Baroness Doune! That's kind of what I was thinking about, I must have heard you say that before. That will be a fast and easy fix I can do before next Sunday! Thank you!! 

[Baroness Doune]

I use upholstery thread - 2 doubled strands - then do a buttonhole/blanket stitch with another doubled strand over the first strands.  32 buttonhole stitches works well for the large hooks I use. 

Then all the needles are pushed through to the wrong side of the skirt and tied off.  Use a surgeons knot to tie off and a dab of Frey Chek because the nylon of upholstery thread does not want to hold a knot well.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Thanks for posting the picture of the Hooks and Eyes that are recommended for period clothing, Baroness.

These particular ones are sturdy, can be tacked down. and will hold up beautifully. I use these ones a lot for Gowns, Doublets, etc.

[lys1022]

The grommets are built into the bodice? Do you have any pictures? That sounds like a great idea, and still keeps the pieces separate.  I would love to see pictures. I hand sew my eyelets, but I'm assuming I could do that with this idea, right? Thanks for posting this!

I will try to remember to take some photos tonight before I start re-packing my faire things for this weekend.

Yes, the grommets are built right into the bodice.  I like this better than the hooks because my overskirt is VERY heavy, and I've had hooks unbend on me before. *grin*  This way I don't have to worry about that.