Plus size bodice

[LadyStitch]

Due to budget constraints I have been asked to make a bodice for one of our plus size actresses.  My first fitting was a disaster.  I made her a size 24 which is actually too a smaller than what was recomended, and it was STILL too big.  without redrafting her ANOTHER fitting shell. Do you have any Big 3 patterns that you would recomend for a 46 high bust, 50 bust, 44 under bust  48 waist  person? 

I only have the chance for 1 more fitting before I HAVE TO sew it up.  I'm near desperate. 

[mollymishap]

Well, I'd suggest trying to drape your own pattern.  With just one more chance at it, it's either that or she'll have to make-do with whatever you can produce.

Try reading this article from the sempstress and see if it helps you out.    She hasn't uploaded pics yet, so it may be a bit confusing.  Try googling "drafting a pattern" and see what other articles may help you out.

Draping a pattern isn't that complicated once you get over the fear of it.  Do some reading on the subject, practice the skills, and you'll never have to rely on a commercial pattern again.

[sealion]

I think the problem may be the fact that the big three include a modern ease in the pattern sizing. For the correct fit you want little if any ease at the waist and you want the bust of the finished bodice to be 2-4" less than her body measurement (the larger her cup size the more of a difference). Lay out the pattern pieces and measure to find out which size to cut for her measurements rather than using the guide on the back of the envelope. HTH

[Taffy Saltwater]

Does another plus-sized lady have a bodice your new member can try on?  I have used a purchased bodice as a pattern, which worked out really well.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

What can help with Plus Sized Women are these tips.

Total Bust:  (without Bra on), less 1". (That will give better support and some lift.

Midriff: (just below the breasts) A pattern can be tweaked to accomodate Midriff measurement.

Waist: Some bodices cinch the waist an inch or so.

Bust Height: (From the shoulder at the neck to center of the breast. ) This measurement is helpful in determining  strap length and fit at the shoulders.

Bust Length: (From the shoulder at the neck to Natural Waistline) This is a vital measurement to make sure the finished edge of the Bodice hits where it is supposed to. See my Profile Picture as to how Bodices should fit.

Back Length: Measured just below the neck to Natural Waistline. I take off 3 1/2" from that measurement where the finished Bodice edge begins. That will also determine side seam lengths. The front piece side seam length should measure the same.

Using these helpful measurement tips will ensure a better fit for Bodices for women who are fuller in the bust, waist, back, etc. Making a Muslin also helps to make alterations beforehand to assure a proper fit.

[Lorraine]

I did a plus size bodice using the custom corset generator and some minor tweaks to the measurements (the generator only takes 2" off your measurements, but the larger you are the more you can "squish"). The only thing I would change for next time would be to reduce the length at the sides, not the underarm measurement, but to the sides of that measurement, since she really didn't have a waist per say. Also, I wouldn't do the bias tape at the bottom again, it needs the boning to go all the way to the bottom. Even with three layers of duck cloth the bottom half inch started to roll up over the course of the day. To give you an idea on size, she has a 54" waist and a 56" bust, FFF cup. Next time I'll do piping along the bottom and turn the whole thing right side out. Here's a pic showing how it came out