Need help fitting top of bodice (mockup pix)

[gem]

Ok, so!  I think I have a mockup for Promenade that is at least the right size, which is an enormous step forward!

But... there are still issues.  First, I'll mention that this is just broadcloth + the flimsy cable ties, so I know the canvas + good ties version will be more supportive.  However, I still have some questions.

--I apparently have a very thin (hollow?) chest.  I'd like to hoist my assets higher to fill in some of that space. What do I need to do?  Change the angle of the boning? Make it still smaller in the bust? (I've already lopped 2" off the pattern, making it 4" smaller than my natural measurements--32" instead of 36.")  I don't think what I need is more *squish,* but more LIFT.  How??  (And I realize that lift isn't really a feature of the period silhouette, but help a girl out!!)  Also, I have noticed a small amount of slipping as I've been wearing it the last 40 minutes or so, which I think has to do with the fact that I have a very narrow rib cage, so there's all this empty space below the bust. 

--I want to make the neckline higher, to more closely match Promenade (and to make room for the lower black overgown neckline) but how?  Any higher and it gapes out!  I know the drawcord (per Tudor Tailor method) will help some, but beyond that, I don't know what to do.



Any advice?  I have my next class/fitting tomorrow (Monday) night, and I'd like to be able to make some progress before then.  I'm having trouble finding fitting assistants willing to pull the garment tight enough for me. :/

Gramercy!!

[Kate XXXXXX]

This may or may not be period, but can you perhaps put a padded roll on the inside under the bust on which to rest you assets, so they don't slip down?

And lop a bit off the sides at the waist so that cinches in a little more...

To sop the gaping at the top, you will need to curve the front in a bit ABOVE the bust, like a Victorian corset.

I don't see this as too much of a problem as you are not going for strict historical accuracy.

[PrincessSara]

I think for more lift you need to take it in at the waist, especially if you have a small ribcage.  Taking more off the bust would just push things in and you'd get the "sectioned" effect.  It looks like you my have already taken too much off of the bust, cause I can see where your breasts are being forced downwards by the extra squish - just excuse my virtual hands for a second....


To get more lift, you could angle the side seams more steeply so that you have a greater difference between the bust and waist.  It looks as though you could take in the waist quite a bit, and your waist seems to be quite a bit smaller than your bust.  Angling the side seams will give you some upward pull as well as fitting more closely to your waist.

I've been having a hard time finding fitting assistants too - apparently I'm the only person around that does costuming.  We need to have a fitting party or something. 

[DonaCatalina]

My first thoughts are the differences are too severe to allow for straight up and down boning.
I would suggest angling the boning on the side slightly inward. Then you can re-inforce the upward tension by right angling the boning under the armpit area. - see markings in red-
This prevents the sideways droop.
It also appears that the waistline is just a little too large.

It might also help if you had wider boning in the three strategic spots marked on the bottom photo. It appears that certain areas are lacking in support that might be helped with heavier boning. If you're using cable ties, you might consider doubling them up.

[mollymishap]

OK, so I'll jump on the picture bandwagon with my 2-cents:

Firstly, I noticed that your straps are not pinned on evenly and you haven't boned all the channels--I know, I KNOW: it's just a mock-up.  I'm not criticizing, just pointing out that even with a mock-up, if you're not careful to be, well--careful--you're going to end up with something that doesn't really show you how the garment will fit in the end.  You might notice how the corset's fit is being distorted in how the center bone is being pulled to your right.  If the bones are themselves being pulled out of shape, it's not going to give *you* the shape you want.



So, I'd suggest re-pinning the strap on the left (your right) so that it's about where the one on the right (your left) is.

Then, I'd suggest making sure that if you're going to do alternate boning, that you actually have alternating channels boned. 

If those two suggestions don't help at least some, then I'd suggest trying out a different boning option, which should help with your smaller torso/ample girls shape: try pulling down on the boning until the ends end up roughly where my dashes are, and make sure you bone all the channels.

If you're thinking that it's suspiciously like the Dorothea boning pattern, you'd be right.  I think she was shaped somewhat like you are, and having the boning under the lower part of your breasts creates an underwire effect which may give you the support you're after.

Once the bones are pulled down, you'll be able to re-pin the sides pulling out the excess fabric that's creating that "hollow" you're talking about which allows for the undesirable slippage.

Anyway, so I hope that helps even though by the time you read this, you'll already have been to your class...

[Mythrin]

I agree with all of the above, but if you are less concerned about historic accuracy then changing a couple of lines of boning can help push the bust froward and putting the "banana"  in to serve as an underwire can help.  I have had good luck for smaller woman using a combination of hard boning (zip ties) and soft boning (hemp cord) to give a smooth look and plenty of support.  In the first photo all of the red lines are hard boning and all of the green lines are hemp boning.  I also stop both about an inch from the top edge which encourages the edge to roll toward the body and minimizes gaping.  This photo has the trim hiding this un-boned edge.  The second photo is the banana roll but I sewed it between the lining and the bodice.  The last is of it laying tight to the body - as pointed out before the waist being small enough to cinch it up makes all the difference in preventing the bust sliding down.  I have a similar build as you and this bodice is jokingly called my "wonder bodice" because I actually look like I have a bust line and am not a 12 year girl when wearing it. 

[gem]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ALL!!!!

Ok, so... using your suggestions and advice from Dev of Odd Bodkin, I have made the mockup smaller everywhere (1" in the bust and 3" in the waist  ), and I've angled the bones to match Dona C's diagram.  I actually dug out my corset from Castle Garden and copied the boning pattern in that (please, nobody ask me why I didn't think of that originally ), which has everything slightly angled, and it's not allover channels.

Molly, you must not have been lurking when I posted my boning confusion thread a few weeks ago, when I was trying to decide if I wanted Dorothea-style curvy boning or "regular," over-the-bust boning.  You can see where I ended up!  But the corset actually has a combination of both (the busk is a very wide V and comes up to the very top of the corset, but the rest of the boning is Dorothea-curvy).  This may take some experimenting.

Mythrin, I like the idea of leaving the top inch unboned--thank you!!  I'm intimidated by the banana roll, although I think the concept (particularly sewing it under the lining) sounds brilliant.

Unfortunately, I haven't had any time the last three days to actually sew the boning channels into the new canvas mockup.  I bet I'll be panicking again on Sunday night! Ha!!

Everyone cross your fingers that 3" off the waist was not insane.  I initially only lopped 2" off, but it didn't give enough angle to the side seams, so I swallowed hard and took off another inch.  I have 3" of S/A to work with.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Sometimes the knife (or scissors!) is the only answer!  Be bold, be resolute!  You will do fine.