Bodice Lace Placement

[Leyla]

I'm thinking it's time for a new bodice. I know it's best to try them on first, but MNRF doesn't offer the WAY awesome bodice vendors that other fairs do.  At MNRF there are two types of lace-ups. Front laced, or the very cheap starters with no boning and about 5 or 6 panels and laces. As such, I've only ever had the chance to try on front laced bodices.

So, what do you all prefer?  What are the pros and cons of other laces?  What do you think of having multiple laces (i.e. Moresca Max with the back and two side laces)? How does it affect the fit? I'm not the tiniest person and I worry that I'll look even less so with extra lace openings possibly gaping open.

Any thoughts?

[Tygrkat]

I own 2, a front lacing 'starter' bodice, and a well-made & well-boned, custom-fitted back lacing bodice. I much prefer the back lacing bodice for obvious reasons (it fits PERFECTLY), but also, I feel like 'the girls' are more supported with that one, and I am by no means tiny either. 

I've not tried on a bodice that laces in more than one spot, but I know that they are more adjustable, giving the wearer a more customized fit...and if my budget allowed, I'd be all over a Moresca! 

[Margaret]

I have two types of bodices; one front lacing only one that I ordered from The Lady and the Fool and on that laces in the front and also on the sides from Morseca.  Both are boned along the lacing edges, the ones from The Lady and the Fool also have boning that runs in a diagonally in the front.

Yes the Morseca is more adjustable, but I find that if there is a gap at the side lacing edges, it tends to dig in to my sides.  I don't get that witht the front lacing only ones.  I tend to like those more.  The support I get from them is good and they are very comfy.

[Master James]

M'Lady makes most of her own garb but did buy one bodice from Oddbodkin and she loves it!  She got the custom made one because she is short bodied and the "off the rack" ones just don't fit her at all.  It laces on the side and the front and fits her perfectly!  Unless you have an "off the rack body" then this might be your best bet.

[Dev]

I have one with two front laces (they come down in a V-shape), and I've worn single-front-lacing ones.

The two laces, even both in the front make it more adjustable, I guess because the tension is shared between two sets of laces instead of one, but I'm not really too aware of bodice-physics.

From what I've seen, personally, front and back laces work best on particular curvy people; side laces are better on thin people or those with low-set hips.

Also, another personal observation is that back laces look nice no matter what the arrangement of the other laces, as opposed to no back lace.

[Ludovi]

I have worn bodices that laced on the sides and ones that laced in the front, and it has been my opinion that the ones with side and back lacing, unless you are able to tie it nearly shut, will irritate the arms, and your sides (the one I had borrowed was laced beneath the arm).

Back lacing, I do not mind. I actually find it more comfortable (and appealing)  than the front lacing for the reason that you do not have to spend time constantly adjusting the laces to make it appear even. Though, that may just be my own personal preferance.

I tend to agree with Dev, when it comes to the sidelacing and backlacing corsets, I believe Sidelacing works well if you have lower set hips, or a narrower body frame in general. For those of us blessed with ample curves (like myself), I have noticed that Back and front lacing tends to be more comfortable.

[analise]

I bought a "starter" bodice from Bullseye at MDRF several years ago and it was okay, but I never really loved it (it was basically a piece of upholstery fabric with some boning and laced up the front). Then I bought a bodice that laces up the sides, back, and the front from Unicorn Clothing (also at MDRF). It was lovely! (Is, still, but I've taken to wearing another bodice more often). I liked that I could "adjust" it if my size fluctuated a bit. But yes, it did have a tendancy to dig in on the sides, especially on long days.

So then I got a "Tudor" bodice from Fantasia (MDRF again). And it's become my favorite bodice. It laces up the sides and front and does a very good job.

However. I bought a bodice from Damsel in this Dress (online, sent my measurements) last year that, because it also involved heavy sleeves and long tails down the back, I don't wear often because it gets hot, but if I did? It'd probably be my favorite. And it only laces up the front (but the boning she uses is really nice, and she makes her bodices a bit longer than normal so they tend to keep things in place better instead of getting the "muffin top" effect under the bottom of your bodice. )

And then I ordered another bodice from DiiD this year. Just got it in the mail yesterday and I'm very pleased with it and can't wait to wear it out when MDRF starts up next month! (though really I bought it for something I'm putting together for faeriecon).

So, uh. Really, you need to try on, I think, to get the best idea of how something will work for you. But all of that said? I really have to recommend Damsel in this Dress for doing an amazing job sight-unseen. And as far as laces go: I seem to best prefer front lacing. I had a corset that only laced up the back and it was a belch to manage to do it myself and still look presentable so I didn't keep it very long. Laces on the sides could possibly dig in and be uncomfortable. So that's me.

[Khaalis]

Jus to throw in another $0.02 worth here.

No, I don't wear bodices, but I have worked with a clothier at faire doing dressing and have 2 women that I dress each week for faire. I just have to point out that their is SO Much MORE to the fit of a bodice than what kind of lacing it has. If you have ever worn a bodice that ever gave you problems or caused you pain, it is because you were wearing an ill-fitted bodice. Not only are there various Styles of bodice, there are different cuts within a style. Obviously a custom fitted bodice is always the best option, but not everyone chooses that route. However, many women do not realize how important the sizing really is. 

If you are buying a bodice "off the rack" you really need to try them on. The worst ones to buy are the ones that have only one lacing. The best always have 3 (either front or back, depending on the style and the 2 sides). It is also a misconception that you should have a bodice so tight you can't breath. The purpose of having side lacing is to let out the bodice to fit comfortably. You should also focus on how long the bodice is, both overall and especially the front. If the bodice is too short or too long it can cause curling of the boning, or cause uncomfortable jabbing in sensitive areas. Similarly you should make sure the arms fit correctly. Many times I hear woman complain that the bodice digs into their underarms or into their sides. This again is from being ill-fitted. Also, youif a bodice is laced and tied correctly, you shouldn't ever have to fidget with it.

As a reference, a good seamstress/tailor will take roughly 20 measurements for a proper fitting of a bodice. Compare this to your standard "off the wrack" which is a uniformed template of roughly 4-5 sizes (S, M, L, XL, etc.).  No 2 women have the same body figure and measurements, yet they try to squeeze themselves into a generic sized bodice and then wonder why its not comfortable.  Even with a custom bodice, you need to think about what style you will be more comfortable in. Front lacing (wench bodices) come in all different varieties. Some are cut for under-breast, some over-breast, some are more like cinches or a corset then a bodice, etc. Noble bodices are a whole different ballpark as well. Each style of bodice will feel different and fits different body shapes differently.

Just something to think about.

[Leyla]

Thanks for all the awesome feedback!

Looks like I'm going to have the wonderful opportunity to go to Bristol for the first time this year. I'm going to give Pendragon a shot, and maybe peek around to see what other costume vendors they have.  I'm certainly in need of a new bodice, I pulled my garb out to prepare for the coming weekend and can't cinch my old bodices closed anymore. Ugh!