If you could make garb to match a portrait........

[operafantomet]

The Mona Lisa! I had a grandmother who was crazy about it (and Leonardo da Vinci), and it seems I inherited her obsession...

I think if the painting was cleaned it would have a more even colour scale than above. The one above has "cleaned" the sky like the newly restored Ginevra de Benci, but the dress seems pretty unaltered, with only a light yellowing of the sleeves.

It looks like the gown is a full gown tied in the waist (rather than a tight-bodice-and-full-skirt) and it was a popular style in Tuscany. The neck opening has a fine golden embroidery which looks "allegorical", a sort of Vinci knot pattern which can also be seen in the "Lady with Ermine" portrait and the Sforzfa castle ceiling decorations (both in Milan).
VINCI KNOTS: http://www.emis.de/journals/NNJ/images_number1/Rosin01b.gif
THE DRESS EMBROIDERY: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/pisslei/monares4.jpg
ANOTHER DRESS WITH EMBROIDERY: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/pisslei/monasmock.jpg

SIMILAR DRESSES:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/siena/pinturicchiosiena1509.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/milano/luini1520s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/bdgiovanni1488.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/bartolomeolucca1515b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/brescia/romanino1510brescia.jpg

The only striking "attribute" in the Mona Lisa painting is the embroidery on her dress, so the pattern of the embroidery has been intepreted in many, many ways. One reason for this is that Leonardo loved puns, according to his note books, and would often give a clue on the sitter in the motif (Galé= Cecilia Gallerani, Ginepro= Ginerva de Benci etc). He took a special interest in Vinci knot patterns. "Vinci" is a sort of decorative basket braiding, and also his last name. This (and other elements) has made many believe the painting might be a self portrait. Some link the pattern to different dynasties. I personally see the embroidery as fictional (cause it doesn't correspond with the dress pleats underneath), but I'm not sure what to think of why it was added and what it's supposed to mean.

If one use basic colour skills on the sky, it will give this conclution: the sky appears green, but the sky looks blue (if somewhat misty) in most other Leonardo painting. Granted the sky in the Mona Lisa painting once was blue as well, there must be a yellow vanish layer on top distorting the original colours. Blue + yellow = green, right? If the same applies to the dress, the sleeves would still be yellow, but not as dark as they are now, and the dress would not be in this muddy green-grey nuance, but have a bluer teint.

Leonardo da Vinci worked basically with three colours for female outfits; seagreenish blue, mustard/golden yellow and clear red. It can be seen in the "Lady with Ermine" painting, as well as various Madonnas:
LADY WITH ERMINE: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/milano/ceciliagallerani.jpg
ANNOUNCIATION: http://www.artchive.com/artchive/l/leonardo/leonardo_annunc.jpg (this dress also remains a tad of the Mona Lisa)
MADONNA BENOIS: http://www.zeno.org/Kunstwerke.images/I/11k0085a.jpg
MADONNA OF THE CARNATION: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/8/8f/Madonna_of_the_carnation_EUR.jpg/300px-Madonna_of_the_carnation_EUR.jpg
MADONNA OF THE ROCKS: http://www.fotos.org/galeria/data/522/3Leonardo-Da-Vinci-Virgin-of-the-Rocks---London.jpg (London version)

It seems quite likely to me that the same colour scale (minus red) was used in the Mona Lisa. Whether it is because it was fashionable or Leonardo's favourite colours... have no idea. Red and blue are the traditional colours of the Madonna (blue reflecting her heavenly/celestial connections, and red emphasizing the grand emotions), so it's not an unusual choice per se. It also appears in other dresses of the era.

The sleeves on the dress seems to be tie-ons, with the chemise sleeves poking out at the shoulder. It was a very fashionable touch in Florence ca. 1480-1520 (and it also makes a comeback in the mid-1500's):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/botticelli1475.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/raphael1506.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/sarto1513.jpg

Her dress is actually quite fashionable, but it's hard to spot it under 500 years of grease and dirt. The right shoulder and left sleeve is also covered by a transparent black shawl which distorts the view a bit, and makes the sleeves look larger than they are.

My quick sketch of the dress:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/pisslei/monalisaorange.jpg
(the sleeves should be narrower, and the neckline more square)

I hope this helped a bit... I'm not a 100% sure of what the colours and details are, but the dress can easily be placed within contemporary dress fashion (as I hope the examples above has shown). It's just so hard sometimes to look past her all-too-familiar face and the mentioned grease and dirt...

[Tudor-Diva]

Operafantomet, your take is great!  I have just been wondering what to do about the waist, is it tied, or is it constructed to be fitted.  Of course ease of construction could win out on this one and I could just go with the tied waist.  Honestly, this body dress could be made just like any chemise.  How's THAT for ease!  Thank you so much for your comments and insight.  I've had much discussion amongst friends about how to best build this and I'm feeling much more confident now in the direction to go.

[isabelladangelo]

Actually, the Mona Lisa's outfit is a post-pregnancy gown.  You can read all about it here:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/entertainment/5384822.stm

You can see the same style here:
http://www.wga.hu/art/t/tiziano/10/1/06vanity.jpg
and here:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ab/Alessandro_Botticelli_Portrait_of_a_Lady_%28Smeralda_Brandini_.jpg

There are variations on it through out the 16th c in Italy.   It's non-restictive and looks to be worn with "short pair of bodies" beneath it normally. 

[verymerryseamstress]

operafantomet, great research!  Well done! 

[silverstah]

WOW, operafan - amazing research!  Thank you for sharing it here!

[DonaCatalina]

You never see anything this simple at Faire......but I love the color combination.

[operafantomet]

I hadn't though about that, but you're right - that colour combo would be smashing!

[Artemisia]

I found the opposite - a portrait that matched my garb. (see my icon)


Now I need those sleeves! 

[Lady Rosalind]

You never see anything this simple at Faire......but I love the color combination.

He he, I love this color combo, which is why I use it! http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=3212.15 - Photos from Celtic Lady, from DMRF this year, second pic.

I really love this painting! I may have to make something similar!

[operafantomet]

You never see anything this simple at Faire......but I love the color combination.

He he, I love this color combo, which is why I use it! http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=3212.15 - Photos from Celtic Lady, from DMRF this year, second pic.

Oh, your colour combo really is close! Very gorgeous colours, especially together.

And Artemisia, I agree about the painting. Your dress is rather similar! These sleeves: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/bonveronese1540s.jpg  reminds a lot of yours, so those two paintings combined = your dress.

[operafantomet]

I want a stripy 1530's Veneto dress!

[Cilean]

True, but I think most of us would like to be done in under two years...  I will make the attempt this winter, when things die down a bit... 

I have carpal tonal syndrome, I choose not to have surgery so no doing the loads of embroidery with my hands? Not going to happen, it is the reason I have my Designer SE, while I know you don't need the highest end machine? I have it because it fit the needs of my sewing, for what I wanted to do next.  I am now thinking about upgrading to the Diamond because of the awesome expanse of the embroidery hoop, the down size is the embroidery feature is now always on your machine. It is HUGE, and I like having mine separate.  So now I am in a ponder about the upgrade but I can tell you? I adore ADORE my Designer SE goes through 8 thicknesses of fabric easily and only kavetches a little! LOL

I love designing and creating historical designs and then doing them on my garb! I have a bunch of Celtic Knotwork I plan on doing on several of my son's clothing.  He has a cloak I want to embroider the heck out of and I can do this in 1 to 2 afternoons not my entire life.  I do beadwork and it is easier for my hands for some reason but even that I must go slowly.  For me? I am goal oriented, I want the garb to wear!! Sometime in my life! So my machine makes my imagination soar!

Cilean

[DonaCatalina]

I wouldn't be able to do this amount of embroidery by hand.

If I could find a machine capable of this density, I would give it a try.

[operafantomet]

What about colouring a cut-out trim or lace? (similar to the trim on Eleonora di Toledo's funeral dress). Could give a funky result, with less work. 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I am going to be doing the Pelican Portrait for a friend of  mine. I have shopped for the main fabric of the gown, a lovely Brick Red Cotton Velveteen. The emerald jewels I will need to order from Sapphire & Sage to sew onto the gown. There will be a lot of them. I have what I need to make a corset, Bumroll, Farthingale, Drawers, Chemise, ruffs, etc.

When I was at Bristol last month, I did find a brooch tht resembled the Pelican in the portrait. Not an exact replica, but mighty close.

I have pearls yet to order as well as a few more things. I will post photos in the Progress thread as I progress.