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Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.

Started by Lady Kathleen of Olmsted, August 05, 2009, 12:14:23 AM

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Rowan MacD

Quote from: gem on June 07, 2013, 06:22:54 AM
QuoteDo not cut the thread off the spool-Thread the needle onto the end of the thread, then make a large, secure knot.

...And where does the knot go?

I run my thread right off the spool, too ("like a sewing machine" is a great way to put it). Easy-peasy.

Glad to know JA has the pleating tape. I need to shorten the skirt I made last year, and b/c it has guards on the hem, I have to do it from the top. I used the gingham method last time, but want to try the tape when I re-do it.
Gem-I have never actually used the 'off the spool' method for runs over a yard long (the 2 needle one works great for me).
    I asked MA and that's what she told me to do-I assume the knot goes (and stays) wherever you start your run.   I kept getting snags with that method, so I devised my 'divide and conquer' approach instead.  As I go, I can leave the unpleated skirt material rolled up next to me on the couch until I get to it.     
   I haven't been to Joanne's yet, but that tape is on my list! If it works as advertised-it would be more secure than conventional pleating stitches, which can break.   I also like the possibility that you can open the pleats back up at will ,if you leave the drawstring long.
    It would help with alterations (and cleaning) like you said.

Wicked-The two needle method I use is simple (it has to be for me to manage it). and lets me work in a smaller space too.
   You have to have the dots, gingham, whatever you use to mark the pleats in place first so you know where to stitch at.
You run the row stitches one needle at a time, 18-24" stop- check the stitches to make sure they are exactly even with each other, then draw that section up.  Repeat till done.    It's exactly the same as doing it using 7 yards of thread, but you do it in sections instead of the whole length at once: First needle-run 18" of stitches, stick needle in material to hold it there.
  Take second needle and make second row.  After both are in place, check stitch placement and draw up pleats.
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

Rowan MacD

   I got about 10 yards of the pleating tape at Joann's-$1.59 yd.  The cords are stitches in at 1" intervals.
   My tape has 4 rows and is about 5" wide.  No wot see it it works!
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

Lady Rosalind

#107
Cross-posted from the In Progress thread, by request:


Pleating nearly complete! by LadyRosalindWoodville, on Flickr

For those who have been wondering about it, here is a pic of the way I do my pleats, which may illustrate the technique a bit better. Sew the "Valleys" first, then tip the "peaks" up to the waistband, and sew! Enjoy!

Rowan MacD

  *raises hand*
   How wide is the waist band, and what do you make it with? 
   I've been using 1" belt webbing inside per MA instructions. 
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

Lady Rosalind

The waist band is 2 inches wide. I make it by cutting a strip of cotton drill a bit over 6 inches wide for the lining, then folding it into thirds, sewing it like this:


waistbanddiagram by LadyRosalindWoodville, on Flickr

I am still working on a diagram for how to add the outer part of the waistband. I'll post that later!

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

I am bumping this up because I had some ask via Facebok on how to do Cartridge Pleating.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde