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Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.

Started by Lady Kathleen of Olmsted, August 05, 2009, 12:14:23 AM

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Genievea Brookstone

Genievea Brookstone
Lost child of the Woods

Katie Bookwench

See, I keep asking Maggie to make my garb for me but she steadfastly refuses me every time.

Something selfish about having her own garb to make... *humph*

:-*
Katie O'Connell - Hollygrove Library
(aka The Bookwench)
Licensed Wench - IWG Local 57

Margaret

/Mags snickers at the Katie....    :-*

OK - here we go.  I am using orange embroidery floss for demonstration purposes only and I only did a bit as I don't want orange floss on my pretty purple skirt when it's done.   :D

Here's the skirt to be attached to the band and the finished waistband


Lay skirt on a table or board, then lay the waistband on top of the pleats - right sides together.  You will be sewing the pleats to the bottom edge of the waistband.


Start by putting your needle through the first pleat and up through the waistband.  Bring the thread around and go through the pleat up through the waistband again.  (I'm a double stitcher.)


Continue on to the next pleat - always going up through the top part of the pleat up through the waistband until your skirt is all attached:


Once you are done, the outside of the skirt will look like this:


There's my way of doing it.  I hope this helps explain a bit more.
Here's the link that taught me how to cartridge pleat:  http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/index.html
Mistress Margaret Baynham
The Sweete Ladye
IWG #1656 MCL
wench.org (IWG forums)
ibrsc.org (IBRSC forums)

Katie Bookwench

All right, you pernicious harpy..... I'll sew my own garb if I must;D *sigh*

Well... now show the inside too, just so people can see it how it looks from the 'wrong' side- that's what really made it *click* in my head.

perhaps when you're finished with the correct color floss.

Katie O'Connell - Hollygrove Library
(aka The Bookwench)
Licensed Wench - IWG Local 57

Margaret

Ah end your rattlin' on there...

Fine - here's the inside of a completed skirt;



And the outside;

Mistress Margaret Baynham
The Sweete Ladye
IWG #1656 MCL
wench.org (IWG forums)
ibrsc.org (IBRSC forums)

Dinobabe

So the pleats sit on top of the bum roll and that is what makes them stick out?
Natasha McCallister
Bristol Faire 1988-2005
The Wizard's Chamber/Sir Don Palmist
59.2% FaireFolk Corrupt
midsouthrenfaire.com

bellevivre

ok, so the stitches are GOING to show- that's what i couldnt ever figure out- I never seemed to see anyone elses stitches, so i thought i must be doing something wrong... but then, i was using buttonhole twist on dark fabrics! Will go with floss and that should fix my problem- huzzah!

may just be making my red and black tudor this season AFTER ALL!!!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Belle the Kat

Clan Procrastination's Ambassador to the Seelie & UnSeelie Courts

Margaret

Quote from: Dinobabe on August 06, 2009, 09:18:58 AM
So the pleats sit on top of the bum roll and that is what makes them stick out?

Yes, the bumroll does help.  Also, you can add a layer of padding such as duck cloth or even thin quilt batting to give the pleats more 'poof' and more ability to stand out on their own.
Mistress Margaret Baynham
The Sweete Ladye
IWG #1656 MCL
wench.org (IWG forums)
ibrsc.org (IBRSC forums)

Margaret

Quote from: bellevivre on August 06, 2009, 09:32:37 AM
ok, so the stitches are GOING to show- that's what i couldnt ever figure out- I never seemed to see anyone elses stitches, so i thought i must be doing something wrong... but then, i was using buttonhole twist on dark fabrics! Will go with floss and that should fix my problem- huzzah!

may just be making my red and black tudor this season AFTER ALL!!!

I can't wait to see it!

My stitches always do show on the outside.  I try to make them inconspicuous as possible, but they do show a bit.
Mistress Margaret Baynham
The Sweete Ladye
IWG #1656 MCL
wench.org (IWG forums)
ibrsc.org (IBRSC forums)

LadySeasan

ok, and apparently i still suck at cartridge pleating, and will never try again!

well no, thats not true about trying again, but i cant guarantee that i will no longer suck at it!!!
Clan M'Crack-Season M'Crack

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



I recommend using a thread color close to that of the fabric the Overskirt is made out of if at all possible. That way, the stitches do not show. Mine don't.

As for the pleats themselves, the use of one layer of Cotton Canvas Duck provides the pleats with that stabillity.

Happy Cartridge Pleating ladies. Practice! Practice! Practice!
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Jon Foster

My wife has been working on a pleating method she likes for a while now. I think her finished pleats look fine but she's never satisfied with them. I think this thread is giving her some new insight.

Jon.

Marietta Graziella

Hallaluiah!   (think I spelled that wrong)

My stitches always show and it was making me crazy!   I'm glad it's not just me.  :) 

To wrap up and confirm:
1.  Embroidery floss (3 or more strands) is a good thread to sew skirts to waistband/bodices-tons of colors to choose from!
2.  2-3 stitches PER pleat to ensure strength
3.  Boost pleat stability with cotton duck, or thin batting (I use scrap fleece strips)
4.  1" gingham for even pleating
5.  Remove 2nd and 3rd row of pleating thread AFTER skirt is attached to waistband/bodice

What did I miss?!
Nothing clever to say here.  Not enough caffine yet.

Margaret

Mistress Margaret Baynham
The Sweete Ladye
IWG #1656 MCL
wench.org (IWG forums)
ibrsc.org (IBRSC forums)

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



A Cartridge Pleated Overskirt I did back in January using the method of this thread.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde