Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.

[gem]

Thought it was a great time for giving this classic thread a BUMP!

(And also I was totally surprised to see that apparently I have a spool of gingham ribbon somewhere in my stash... Ha!)

[insidiousraven]

The pictures are broken on my end

[gem]

I think Lady K has removed some of her initial photos--this thread is three years old, after all! (Do you get broken links? All I see is empty space where the pictures once were!)

If you look at page 5, though, you can see how Lady Rebecca used the gingham in a skirt.

The actual pleating part is really straightforward, just 2-3 rows of identically-spaced running stitches. Great basic how-to here, on the Elizabethan Costuming Pages: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/  It's a mindlessly simple technique, but it is TEDIOUS. Lady K's idea to face the pleats with gingham will eliminate the really time-consuming part, marking all the dots for the stitches, since you just follow the pattern of the gingham.

I've done several cartridge-pleated skirts, but I'm getting ready to finally try the gingham method for the first time.  I could take some pictures, but I am a total newbie at this technique, so I don't know how helpful they'll be!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Here are some of the photos that may have been erased. Showing how using the 1" Gingham makes for easier Cartridge Pleating and consistent pleats. I use a layer of Cotton Canvas Duck to give the pleats support.

[gem]

Thanks, Lady K! I love how it makes stripes when it's all drawn up. 

[Rowan MacD]

The actual pleating part is really straightforward, just 2-3 rows of identically-spaced running stitches. Great basic how-to here, on the Elizabethan Costuming Pages: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/  It's a mindlessly simple technique, but it is TEDIOUS. Lady K's idea to face the pleats with gingham will eliminate the really time-consuming part, marking all the dots for the stitches, since you just follow the pattern of the gingham.
I've done several cartridge-pleated skirts, but I'm getting ready to finally try the gingham method for the first time.  I could take some pictures, but I am a total newbie at this technique, so I don't know how helpful they'll be!

I used gingham the first (and so far only) time I did cartridge pleats for an MA overskirt, and I will always use it.  I can only add one other piece of advice that I haven't really seen described anywhere.  Maybe it's so obvious it's never mentioned, or first timers are expected to figure it out for themselves:
 
  I was pleating 6 yards of materiel, and found it much easier to pleat in sections, instead of trying to do three-6 yard long rows of running stitches.
  The above link on the Costumers Page, gave me the idea in the section where they describe attaching the finished pleats to the waist band to get even results.
   MA's directions for this overskirt of 6 linear yards would have you run 3 continuous lines of running stitches, along the length of the fabric, and then pulling them all into pleats at once.  Didn't work for me.  I tried doing it her way 2x, always got a snarl in all that thread, and wasted about 3+ hours of my life.
  MA did hint at a different technique involving running the thread directly off the spool, but I don't know it, and she doesn't bother to describe it.  I'm getting used to that.
  Anyway, I found that by running 3 lines simultaneously (using 3 needles/3 threads with 4-5 feet of thread on each one) for a couple of feet, then drawing them together into pleats, then continuing the same for the next few feet till done worked a whole lot better.  Simple.  The thread is till continuous, but you don't have 5-7 yards of it to deal with,  just 4-5 feet.
   You shorten and tie off the threads as you would normally, once the pleats are distributed the way you want them.
   I was done pleating the whole thing in about 40 minutes.  Took a bit longer than that to attach the gathers to the waistband, since I was double stitching every loop due to the heavy material, but I was done with everything in 90 minutes.  I used trouser hooks for the front closure. 

[gem]

I like to run the thread directly off the spool, too. There's no trick to it--you just don't cut it (just like on a sewing machine). That way there's no end to get lost or tangled or pulled through, and you only end up using exactly as much thread as you need. (Although I once accidentally cut my thread ends too short, which made them harder to deal with later.)

The heaviest fabric I've done so far is some medium-weight damask, so I haven't had issues with thread breaking or needles... but if you're working with really heavy fabric and stubborn thread (I use upholstery thread, but Lady Margaret suggested all 6 strands of embroidery floss, which would NEVER EVER BREAK), you can condition the thread to behave better by running it through some beeswax (or a product called Thread Heaven). You can find them easily in the quilting section; hand-quilters use them to get their quilting threads to glide more smoothly through the fabric and tangle less.

[Rowan MacD]

  I don't run it off the spool, I just thread 3 seperate needles with 4-5 feet of thread and string the pleats onto the thread, sort of like you would drapery sheers on a curtain rod.
  It's what works best for me and I get the same results.

[Margaret]

The heaviest fabric I've done so far is some medium-weight damask, so I haven't had issues with thread breaking or needles... but if you're working with really heavy fabric and stubborn thread (I use upholstery thread, but Lady Margaret suggested all 6 strands of embroidery floss, which would NEVER EVER BREAK), you can condition the thread to behave better by running it through some beeswax (or a product called Thread Heaven). You can find them easily in the quilting section; hand-quilters use them to get their quilting threads to glide more smoothly through the fabric and tangle less.

The most and heaviest fabric I have stuffed in to a 30ish inch waist band is 5 yds of unlined velveteen.  I attatched it to the waist with 2 stitches to each pleat and have never had anything pull off or have the thread break - just as Gem said.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I noticed that the photos in my intial first post were missing. I redid the photos on Page 1 for all to see as to how I Cartridge Pleat.

The technique works every time. Time consuming to do, but the pleats come out even and the desired look is there.

[gem]

Laying flat, the inside of the skirt:

I know it's been a while since Lady R popped her head in here, but I'm gonna say this anyway: I am SO glad you posted this particular photo, because without it, I was just about to sew my waistband on inside-out! 

[Irma]

These comments and photos are so helpful.  One question about attaching the skirt to the waistband - how deep of a "bite" do you take for the stitches?

[isabelladangelo]

Hi Irma and welcome to the boards!

You might want to start a new discussion as the last time anyone posted to this thread before you was almost a year ago.  I've noticed a lot of new people coming to the boards lately and bringing up old "dead" threads so don't worry; however it would be helpful for people if you created a new thread, introduced yourself, and explained what you mean by bite.  ;-)  Most people just fold the fabric for the pleating and whip stitch the pleats to the waistband.   

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

So good to see that this thread is still relevant as we have so many new members.

Cartridge PLeating need not be difficult to do. I use the Gingham method. My skirt panels are at most 180" from end to end. THAt would be 3-60" wide panels, plus the desired hem length and 1/2 for the top seam. or 4-45' wide panels. 1/2 seams, finished with a serge to prevent fraying.

Folding over each front panel, 6", I sew 1/2' seam at the top, then turn outards. i measure the lenth from folded edge to folded edge to make my pleating guide. I use the 1" wide Gingham. Underlined with CAnvas, I cut a 4"tall long piece. I make sure I keep my pattern running, and serge all the edges. THe top is 1/2" seam. Understitching helps in having an even smooth finish. I also doa  cross catch stitch to attach the bottom of the guide to the skirt so that it does not flap about.



Starting with a dark square at the beginning, i make my 3 rows of stitching usinga  Heavy Upholstery thread. I gently pull to get even pleats to fit unto the waistband i have made before hand. i also underline the waistbandw ith CAnvas to provide  added strength, for the skirt will be heavy.


I make sure the waistband is facing me so that I can sew the skirt using a double thickness of Heavy Upholstery thread and sturdy needle. 4 stitches per pleat is good. 5 is better.

The finished result.


This process is a  long one, but so well worth it. THis is one sure way to get the consistent pleats with less hassle of having to measure.. The fingers are screaming bloody murder afterwards.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

The finished result using an Embroidered Dupioni Silk.