Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.

[Lady Rosalind]

The finished result using an Embroidered Dupioni Silk.

Pretty!

The method I use is to sew the inside of the pleats to the outside of the waistband at the bottom, then tip the pleats up against the waistband, and sew the top of the pleats to the waistband as well. This is super-secure, and helps make the skirt look fuller.

I also started using wool felt to pleat instead of gingham. I made a pleating guide with a hole punch and some quilter's template sheets. I mark the felt with a white fabric pen or pencil before attaching it (I think I cut strips 2.5 - 3 inches wide last time). The felt edges don't have to be finished, and since I get undressed/dressed as part of my renaissance fashion talk, I can show the insides of the skirts to the audience (which is why I originally did it this way!). Plus, my overskirt is silk, so having the wool felt helps pad out the pleats, and provides a sturdy, yet soft, base for the stitching. Just pick a felt color close to the color of the skirts (not necessarily the same color, if no one is going to see it). Not much is needed. Get a good quality acrylic felt off the bolts at JoAnn Fabrics, you really only need about 1/4 - 1/3 yard so it won't be that expensive.

[gem]

The method I use is to sew the inside of the pleats to the outside of the waistband at the bottom, then tip the pleats up against the waistband, and sew the top of the pleats to the waistband as well. This is super-secure, and helps make the skirt look fuller.

Lady R, would you happen to have a photo of this? I'm having trouble picturing it. Or, that is, what I'm picturing can't possibly be what you mean.

I'm *really* tempted to try drapery pleating tape, after seeing a couple of different costumers' work using it. For me, the worst part of cartridge pleating is marking the dots, and this looks even one step easier than the gingham method--plus as a bonus it pads out the pleats a little:



It comes in different widths; Amazon has 3" for $1.75/yard.

***
I've also been thinking about Irma's question regarding the depth of the stitches attaching the waistband to the pleats. There might be a guideline for how large those stitches should be, but I think it's one of those things you kind of get a feel for by *doing* it. Like hemming a skirt, it's going to depend somewhat on how thick your fabrics are--I'd take deeper stitches for that thick wool in the pleating tape photo, than I would for, say, lightweight linen.

It's really helpful to do a practice swatch before you dive into a skirt, just to see how the technique behaves. Just whip together a sample waistband and cut some scrap fabric (about 36x10" or so, so you have plenty to work with) and give it a whirl!

[Rowan MacD]

 Drapery pleating tape!  Ingenious!.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I will have to give drapery pleating tape another try if it is softer.

Though what is sold in the Fabric stores is way too stiff and hard to sew onto a waistband. I did a Civil War gown using the tape adn broke several needles in the process. Which is why I like the Gingham and one layer of canvas duck. I have yet to break a  needle.

[Orphena]

I used drapery tape in my gold skirt! No marking anything! Different tapes produce different looks, so play with them until you find the one you like!

[Wickedvox]

Drapery tape?! Forsooth, how doth thou ponder such brilliance gem?! (I'm practicing lol!) I'mma look into this option--I like!

[amy]

I have used drapery tape on most of my gowns as well as Sarah's.   It does make a nice stiff pleat jut be careful how you place it and stitch it in to be sure you don't get a stitch line showing where you don't want it.    It has never failed me and is supremely washable.   

[Irma]

The Rowley company has translucent shirring tape.  I bought some a little while ago intending to experiment with pleating a skirt, but haven't done so, yet.  This is the link to the product http://www.rowleycompany.com/products/Translucent-Shirring-Tapes.asp

[Lady Rosalind]

The method I use is to sew the inside of the pleats to the outside of the waistband at the bottom, then tip the pleats up against the waistband, and sew the top of the pleats to the waistband as well. This is super-secure, and helps make the skirt look fuller.

Lady R, would you happen to have a photo of this? I'm having trouble picturing it. Or, that is, what I'm picturing can't possibly be what you mean.

I grabbed my iPad and took a couple of quick pics. It might be hard to see by the light of the hotel room lamp, but here are a couple.


Photo May 24, 10 44 19 PM by LadyRosalindWoodville, on Flickr

This is the inside of the skirt.


Photo May 24, 10 44 07 PM by LadyRosalindWoodville, on Flickr

You can see the two rows of stitching in this photo.


Photo May 24, 10 43 49 PM by LadyRosalindWoodville, on Flickr

Here is the outside of the skirt. Not sure why the part by the trim isn't actually attached... Hmm...

[Marietta Graziella]

I used the drapery sheer method on my cartridge pleated skirts. EASY! Super fast and perfectly tidy. I also added a layer of fleece to pad out the pleats a bit when the fabric was thinner. I doubt I'll ever cartridge pleat another way. 

[Kate XXXXXX]

For 'cheat's pleats' I tend to use the light weight pleat tape for net curtains:



It's less bulky than the standard type.  I did miniature pleating for these sleeves:



Silk taffeta with a cotton sateen lining.  I find Lady Kathleen's lovely gingham method the best for skirts (still using your prezzy, Lady K!  Though now that large gingham is much more available here.  Vendors seem to have got the message!  ).

[Wickedvox]

Here is a link to a phenomenal tutorial on cartridge pleating by Jennifer Rosbrugh: http://historicalsewing.com/how-to-sew-cartridge-pleats
It doesn't get much better than this...even *I* can follow it lol!

[Rowan MacD]

   The only thing that I do differently is that I don't use yards of thread to make the gathers.  My skirt panels were about 7 yards wide before gathering....No way I'm going to try to keep 7 yards of thread untangled while I try to run a stitch the entire length of the skirt panels

  Take two needles (or however many gathering rows you want to do) one for each row.
   Measure out gathering thread the length of your skirt waist band +12 inches for each needle.
   Gather the pleats as you go (I did mine in two foot sections so I could inspect the pleat stitches before I set them) and you won't have yards of wasted thread.  Took me about 40 minutes from start to finish.   

  OR...There is another way to do it with out pre-measuring the thread if you insist on making the looooong running stitches the whole length of the fabric and then gathering them. 
   Do not cut the thread off the spool-Thread the needle onto the end of the thread, then make a large, secure knot.  As you make your stitches, you run the thread off the spool and through the needle as you need more, similar to a sewing machine.  Do this for each row. Proceed to gather as per instructions.
    I think that's how it works.
   

Note: I am so going to try that pleating tape- Joanns does carry it in the drapery dept.
   

[Wickedvox]

Great idea on the thread length Rowen! How do you sew with two needles at once??  I'm practically a chimp with a bamboo stick poking at an ant hill with just one!

[gem]

Do not cut the thread off the spool-Thread the needle onto the end of the thread, then make a large, secure knot.

...And where does the knot go?

I run my thread right off the spool, too ("like a sewing machine" is a great way to put it). Easy-peasy.

Glad to know JA has the pleating tape. I need to shorten the skirt I made last year, and b/c it has guards on the hem, I have to do it from the top. I used the gingham method last time, but want to try the tape when I re-do it.