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I need some expert advice...

Started by sealion, May 22, 2008, 08:36:10 AM

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sealion

I want to make a partlet from very sheer fabric. It is polyester, not silk. :sigh: I want to make it without shoulder seams and hope to accomplish that by using Margo's working womans' partlet pattern (avoiding the fiddly gussets of the ladies' pattern), taping the front and back pattern pieces together at the shoulder seam, cutting one side then flipping the pattern at the center back line. The thing is this will give a back cut on the straight of grain but the fronts will be on the bias. Is that going to be a problem? Is ther a better way to do it?  I'm also wondering how to do the collar band and have it look nice with the sheer fabric. My plan is to do a teeny-tiny french seam to attach the collar then treat it as one layer and do a handstitched rolled hem around the edge of the collar and down the front. Does that sound like it will work or does someone have a better idea? I think I'll make it easier on myself and machine stitch a binding around the outer edges instead of handstitching that part.
Cindy/Ciana Leonardi di Firenze/Captain Cin

DonaCatalina

I can't claim to be an expert, but this works for me.


I used the neck yoke from Randwulf's Pirate Shirt Pattern.
Its basically an oblong shape with the keyhole cut in for the neck. The upright part of the collar is 2 layers thick.

The edges are rolled hem except along the bottom. I added a casing for ties that could be tightened in order to hold the partlet down under the neckline.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

#2






I made my sheer Partlet using the Lynn McMasters pattern and Silk Organza.

Silk Organza is considered a H/A fabric for Partlets. Easy to work with, wshes nicely by hand, and irons up on a cooler setting.

Silk Organza runs close to $15 a yard. This pattern calls for 1 yard. The Lace trim is from JoAnn's.

Hope this helps.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

gem

Cin, have you seen this one?  I can't see where there are any seams at all except at the collar.  This may be like what Dona C is describing.

Also, the partlet pattern in TUDOR TAILOR is very simple, and I can't see why you couldn't redraft the pattern so the seam is at center back instead of at the shoulders (so you'd have, instead of a back and two front pieces, one left side and one right side).  There's actually no seam at the collar on this one--it's one of the flared Tudor collars, and I can't pretend to understand the engineering on it, bit it's worth checking out.

sealion

Dona Catalina- Using the yolk pattern is a great idea! Unfortunately, the men's ren shirt pattern I have on hand does have shoulder seams and I'm too lazy to go buy another pattern.

Lady Kathleen- I don't have time to mail order silk organza because I plan to wear the partlet this weekend. I already have the poly organza that I think I paid a buck a yard for. If I screw up this project I've only wasted my time and not my money. LOL
I ave seen the Lynn McMasters partlet and it looks very much like one shown in Moda a Firenze that I may make for a future project.

Gem- I had looked at the Tudor Tailor partlet but couldn't figure a way to do it without a seam (I think I'd do shoulder seams before a center back seam). I hadn't seen the one you linked before and I'm thinking that will be the simplest solution- no seams, no cutting the front on the bias, and no wasted fabric. Thanks!
Cindy/Ciana Leonardi di Firenze/Captain Cin