News:

Welcome to the Renaissancefestival.com Forums!  Please post an introduction after signing up!

For an updated map of Ren Fests check out The Ren List at http://www.therenlist.com!

The Chat server is now running again, just select chat on the menu!

Main Menu

Machine-sewn Eyelets

Started by gem, August 28, 2009, 03:26:35 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

gem

I thought I'd start a new thread for this, so it would be easier to track down all the info later.

Kate posted some fantastic photos in this thread of machine-done eyelets, as well as eyelet attachments for some different machines (Bernina, Viking/Husqvarna, and Pfaff).

I had totally forgotten about buying the eyelet plate for (with) my Viking.  The saleswoman wasn't actually familiar with it.

I am actually wondering (like for the Viking plate), what's the best/recommended way to make the *hole*?  I'm guessing it's still poking apart the fabric threads, as with hand-done ones, right?

Any other tips/techniques?

LadyAnna

I'm wondering about making the hole as well, and also what happens if it doesn't work? I know sewing machines tend to be finicky about buttonholes and eyelets. Can you just rip the stitches out and try again?

Kate XXXXXX

I use a punch and cut the holes a tad smaller than the post of the plate I'm using.  There are two things you have to remember when doing these stitched eyelets:

1: you MUST remember to put the presser foot down as you need the thread under tension.

2: It's REALLY DIFFICULT to rip the stitches out, and you end up with a bigger hole...

The key is to practice the technique on gash fabric until you can do them really pretty and neat.  You need to drop the feed dogs and set the stitch to a 3-4mm wide zigzag.  Length doesn't matter.

Cut the hole through all the layers.
Put it over the post and squash it right down.
LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT!
Start stitching at a moderate speed while turning the cloth...  The trick is learning to match speed of stitch with speed of cloth turning.  It takes a bit of practice to get them even all the way round.
Stitch all the way round once.  Widen the zigzag a notch and go round a second time.  If there are any thin bits, now you can even them up.

One more thing: you need to do the eyelets before putting the boning in, as turning a boned corset or bodice through the haep of the machine is not an easy thing!  With some, it will be impossible.
Some smaller eyelets:



LadyAnna

Thank you so much for those tips! I think that will help a ton.

gretchen2149

Thank you!!  Long time no see!   :D   I need to find one of those gizmos!  {{{hugs}}}

Kate XXXXXX

Hi there!  And you're all welcome.  Anything more you need to know, just ask.

MOST of the stuff I have done so far has needed discreet eyelets, but you can do them with some of the fancier stitches, and combined with a circle or flower-stitching thingy, you can get some very pretty effects.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



Kate IS the Machine sewn Eyelet Expert here.

I am going to have to ask the store where I bought my machine if there is such an attachment for my Janome. I would like to make machine sewn eyelets as well. Or at least attempt them to see how they come out. The Invisible Zipper Foot ran me $14.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Kate XXXXXX

#7
There were rumours for a while that they were going to, but so far I cannot find one...   ???

gem

I'm bumping this up, because I have FINALLY gotten out my Viking eyelet plate and taught myself how to use it (after 14 months). HUZZAH!  It was *really* easy, thanks to Kate's tutorial, especially because I could *barely* understand the hieroglyphics on the package. ::)  By my third eyelet, things were looking pretty good!

I did have one question--I used the 6 mm plate and a 4.0 and 4.5 (mm?) stitch width, which seems to be pretty ideal. The 4.0 covers up the messy bits, and the 4.5 makes a beautiful smooth finish.  But... they seem really *bulky,* like they're using a ton of thread. Is that normal? Is that normal for the thread I'm using (regular poly/poly sewing thread, C&C Dual Duty)? Will using the silk or rayon embroidery thread make a difference? Or is this a technique issue, and I just need more practice?

Kate XXXXXX

You need to match turning speed with stitching speed so that you get decent cover without too much bulk.  It takes a bit of practice.

Yes, thread makes a big difference!  I prefer to use silk thread like the YLI or Coates Seta Reale, which are fine monofillament threads.  Good quality rayon embroidery thread works well too.  After that you want to try things like the YLI 100 weight long staple cotton, Aurifil long staple 100 weight, or the finest Coats Cotton.  For the cotton threads, use the same top and bottom.  For the silk and rayon I usually use good quality 120's serger polyester thread.

gem

Thanks, Kate!  I am halfway through a pair of lacing strips. :D  Today I picked up a spool each of Gutterman silk and rayon embroidery threads, so I can do a little more experimenting. (I bought bland boring cream/khaki colors, to match the corset I'm actually making--khaki/sage with cream trim--and not the glorious peacock blue and fiery orange that I really wanted.  Sigh.)


Kate XXXXXX

The joy is that later, when you do a peacock and orange court gown to go over the boring corset, you CAN use the fab colours!

Peacock and orange can look utterly divine together.

ladyharrogate

does anyone know if there is a machine embroidery design that would automatically make the eyelet?  Just wondered as I have an embroidery machine.  Might have to play with that idea because I really HATE metal grommets unless they're for horse costuming and sprayed the color of the caparison!

gem

I'm certainly no expert in machine embroidery, but the key to the Viking (and Bernina?) eyelet functions is that you first make the actual *hole* in the fabric, and then stitch around the hole. I think Kate says she uses a punch to cut a hole (like you would with a buttonhole)? I've been using an awl to push the fibers aside, like you do when you do them by hand. Then the machine satin-stitches around the hole.  The eyelet functions I've seen on embroidery machines (admittedly very few of them!) are decorative; they don't really make a usable hole in the fabric. But when I was looking at the little eyelet doodad, it struck me as an incredibly simple device: just a piece of plastic that snaps into the face plate, with a cylinder to hold the hole open as you sew around it. I would think that a clever person might be able to rig something up on just about any machine.

**
My lacing strip project has stalled out due to squirrel bite.  ::) My hand has healed enough to use the machine, but not enough to jab the awl through the fabric! (Which hurts my fingers after a while when they're *not* injured!) So even though I discovered a beautiful sage green rayon embroidery floss in my stash, I have packed up my sewing stuff until after Spring Break (or until after my book is done). Sigh.  Back to just *thinking* about costuming...

Kate XXXXXX

Quote from: ladyharrogate on March 10, 2010, 07:28:10 PM
does anyone know if there is a machine embroidery design that would automatically make the eyelet?  Just wondered as I have an embroidery machine.  Might have to play with that idea because I really HATE metal grommets unless they're for horse costuming and sprayed the color of the caparison!

A friend of mine worked out a way of doing it on her Bernina embroidery machine, but it took her longer to set it up and do the eyelets than it took me to do more with the eyelet kit.  They were double stitched, but she had to devise the pattern, digitize it, stabilize the area, sew each one and then punch out the holes.  I think all told it took a couple of hours to do 12 holes!  I can do that many with the eyelet kit in less than an hour...

I cut the holes with a punch for larger eyelets and use an awl for smaller ones.