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Pattern advice...

Started by Kaymrial, September 16, 2009, 03:49:48 PM

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Kaymrial

Well, I'm one of the most indecisive people I know, and it's really biting me now, lol.  I want to make a chemise to wear to the Faire here in Vegas in October, but I don't know what pattern to go with...  I've got this pretty dusky blue cotton/linen blend that I want to use (as hot as it gets here, even in October, I know the importance of natural fibers).  I've got some patterns I've picked up from Joann pattern sales of the Big 3 and I plan to use one of those this time around, since I have them on hand. (I'm also using one for my skirts, the McCall 4090).

Being Las Vegas, sometimes it's bloody hot, and others it's cold.  I'm just looking for something that can work in the heat, but also looks nice (H/A is nice, but the priority is comfort).  Also, I'm thinking something past the hips, maybe to the knees (no ankle-length), since that'll also help with the airflow...  I've never sewn any garments for myself for the faire before, so I'm not sure what works and what isn't the best.

The patterns I have are:
McCall's 4091 http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4091.htm
I like the drawstring, so that I know it'll stay in place if I take it off of the shoulders, and the drawstring down the arms on View C/D, but I haven't seen anyone really talk about this pattern on the forum.

Simplicity 3758 http://www.simplicity.com/p-2001-costumes.aspx

Simplicity 4923 http://www.simplicity.com/p-2198-costumes.aspx

Simplicity 3519 http://www.simplicity.com/p-1900-costumes.aspx

Butterick 4486 http://www.butterick.com/item/B4486.htm

Butterick 6196 http://www.butterick.com/item/B6196.htm  It would be the "peasant" look on the left.

I just wanted to see what you guys say.  I'm not really looking to go out and but many more patterns, since I really want to get this done soon, but if there's a better alternative that I can get quick (and doesn't cost much, hehehe), I'm open to it.  I definitely want to get some of the really good patterns, like the Margo Anderson ones, eventually, but that's not really an option now...   :)

Genievea Brookstone

I madeboth McCall 4091 and the Butterick 6196. 

The McCall one I thought I liked but when I put the string in for the neck the shoulder went way down to my elbows and I looked like the stay puffed marshmellow. So I need to do some alterations on it.

The Butterick 6196 is the one I currently wear, it is a little on the short side but still tuckable in the skirt and doesnt ride up.
Genievea Brookstone
Lost child of the Woods

gem

I know that if comfort is a factor, I'm *far* more comfortable in a garment designed and cut for a woman, than I am in men's (or unisex) clothes.  I'm more toward the petite side (not a true petite, but close), so the width of the shoulders, length of the arm, etc, really make a difference.  And when you're dealing with the voluminous amounts of fabric that go into a chemise, it all adds up.

What are you planning on wearing this with?  If you're thinking of the traditional wench look (skirt/s and bodice), or possibly a slightly more historical look (although historically speaking, all chemises were some shade of white), I think the two basic chemise patterns that Genievea  mentions would be really nice.  I have a chemise in a similar cut, and I pretty much wear it all the time (although I have others).  The other patterns you posted are more shirt patterns, which can be totally fun, too, particularly for pirate looks, etc.

My most comfortable chemise is actually one like this, with the double puff sleeves and the under-bust elastic.  I'm sure part of it is because of the fabric it's made from (a lightweight cotton gauze), but I really like the way it fits (and I've worn it at many different weights/sizes).  I didn't make it, so I can't say if it was actually made with this pattern or not, though.

Lastly, I like my necklines to have elastic instead of drawstrings.  I find I'm constantly fiddling with the gathers on a drawstring neckline, and they never look right.  I've finally replaced them all with elastic, and it's just so much easier to deal with!

Pascal

I like the Simplicity 3519 -- be aware that it uses a "yoke" rather than shoulder seams.  I find this makes it pretty easy to put together.  You could easily make it longer to have it serve as a underskirt chemise.  It doesn't have a drawstring or elastic around the top, though.

I generally use something like <a href=http://www.butterick.com/item/B3906.htm>Butterick 3906</A> for a chemise.  I can make it short and get a shirt -- make it longer for a full underskirt (helpful if overskirt is very lightweight).  Or, could use non-sheer fabric and use it without overskirt.  In any case, the corset makes the outfit.  I usually leave the ruffle edge off the bottom -- have done many lengths of sleeves. and several different elastic combinations.  Have done the top with elastic and also with ribbon drawstrings.

Was looking at Butterick 6196 (my wife's about to start that one) and noted that the chemise is almost identical to 3906 -- except for length.  Cut it a little longer and it becomes a full underskirt as well.

Lady Rebecca

I made 6196 (lengthening the sleeves and body 3", since I'm tall), and I absolutely love it. I just made it out of a white on ivory floral cotton, and it is sooo comfortable. I highly recommend it.

Kate XXXXXX

It's going to depend partly on whether you want a Wench outfit or a man's shirt, as most of those are the pirate shirt type patterns.  For a nice wench kit chemise, use the last one.

Cilean

Quote from: Kaymrial on September 16, 2009, 03:49:48 PM
Well, I'm one of the most indecisive people I know, and it's really biting me now, lol.  I want to make a chemise to wear to the Faire here in Vegas in October, but I don't know what pattern to go with...  I've got this pretty dusky blue cotton/linen blend that I want to use (as hot as it gets here, even in October, I know the importance of natural fibers). 




Okay I have another suggestion and it is free! Free I tell you!
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/shirt.htm

Or if you want something that gives you a 'scoop' neck try this pattern:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html

So I give you yet more suggestions!
Lady Cilean Stirling
"Looking Good is not an Option, It is a Necessity"
My Motto? Never Pay Retail

Kaymrial

Hi guys, thanks for the input.

So, I'm trying to find something fairly neutral that I can use in different looks.  I bought a basic wench kit at the faire a few years ago (basic white chemise, reversible front-laced bodice with a plain fabric on one side and tapestry on the other, two skirts in coordinating colors), but I'm looking to make a couple things so I can change things up and have a little variety.  I'm pretty much sticking to the wench look, but I wanted to have a little more fun in the color, hence the blue (also looking into getting one of the Damsel in this Dress bodices, they're so pretty and they look like they really smooth out bumps, hehehe).  So I'm a little more open minded in my options at this point.

My biggest concern was something that I could adjust for the heat or the cold (pull the sleeves up and neck down when it's hot, and the opposite for the cold).  The chemise I have has elastic in the neck, but it always slips back up my shoulders, which is why I thought about the drawstring.  The patterns I listed are just what I currently have (I'm mostly leaning toward the M4091 or the B6196 anyway), but I figured I'd see what you guys would say, since you have more experience than I do at this thing and have the best advice  :).

The input is helping, though, and much appreciated.  It's good to hear how patterns have worked for other people.

And thanks for those other suggestins, Cilean.  Those are some nice and simple patterns, and I really like the "scoop" one.  Something else for me to think about, hehehe.