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Need quick help: cutting shirt yoke on straight grain?

Started by gem, September 17, 2009, 05:09:25 PM

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gem

I'm making Milord a shirt like this (only his will have a collar):



I'm using medium-weight linen (our favorite Fabrics-store.com linen), which is 60" wide, but the pattern only shows layout for 45" wide fabric.  Consequently, I have quite a bit of fabric left after cutting the big pieces (sleeves and shirt bodies), but it's not on the fold.  I have the back yoke (and back yoke lining/facing) to cut, and there's plenty of that extra fabric, *if* I rotate the yoke pieces so they're cut on the straight (not cross) grain.

What do you think?  I think it will be visually indistinguishable, but I'm worried about mucking up the way the garment falls/fits... particularly b/c I've already cut the front yoke pieces.

(I have enough fabric to cut it the recommended way, but this would be more economical, and I'd have yardage instead of scraps left over).

There are also pieces for the collar and the cuffs; I saw a Threads article that actually recommended changing the way you cut collars:
QuoteMost collars and cuffs are cut with the long edges on the lengthwise grain, which can be visually compelling. You can also cut them on the cross-grain to align with the rest of the garment. Or try cutting a collar on the bias, and add a center seam at the center back. The grain will then fall beautifully and draw attention to your face.

I know that the cross-wise grain will have a little more give... what I'm looking for are opinions:  "Yes, won't matter a bit; go right ahead!"  or "No, you won't be happy with it."

Thoughts?

Thanks!!

Kate XXXXXX

I've never had a problem cutting them either across or down the length of the grain.  Bias cut can be fun, but if I was doing that to play with a stripe or check, I'd probably face it with a bit cut on the straight so the bits behaved properly...

On that shirt pattern, go ahead and cut it the most economical way.  That's what they would have done Way Back When, so just feel free to copy history.

gem

Thanks, Kate!  I actually ended up just changing where my fold was (so that it folded twice instead of once), so that I could lay it out twice on the cross grain.  There was a really weird wonky cut that just wouldn't let me use the leftovers for the yokes.  Wish I'd thought of that technique before cutting everything else out.  Sigh.  On the upside, I used the scraps for the collars and cuffs, and I was left with almost 2 yards.

Now.  What can I make with almost 2 yards of light-brown linen?

LadyShadow

I've cut both ways.  Only time it mattered was when matching a pattern on the fabric.  But glad to hear it worked out.  And let your imagination go with the left over fabric  ;D
May the stars always shine upon you and yours.

Royal Order of Landsharks Guppy # 98 :)