Eyelets

[Kate XXXXXX]

For eyelets and buttonholes I tend to use silk or rayon machine embroidery thread, which is thinner and has an abrasive resistant finish to withstand the speed of machine embroidery.  For buttonholes I adjust the stitch density, and for eyelets I go round twice.  You get better coverage.  If I have to use non embroidery thread for them, I try to use either 100wt YLI cotton, or the thinner Coats Cotton as standard weight cotton or poly thread makes lumpy buttonholes.

I only ever use the thicker Coats Seta Reale for hand worked buttonholes or eyelets on really thick fabric such as 14oz tartan (the thick, very heavy winter weight stuff) and coat fabrics.  Old fashioned cotton or linen 'buttonhole twist' was also for heavy fabrics, and I reserve that for heavy canvas.

I find that top-stitching thread is no good for eyelets and buttonholes as it has a matte finish and snags nicely as you work with it and abrades in use, wearing the laces through eyelets before wearing out, and pilling in buttonholes.

I will sometimes use stronger upholstery thread to sew heavy buttons onto very thick fabrics, but will always use a backing button for those as well.  It helps to stop the button weight pulling holes in the fabric.