Simplicity 4923 Coat

[Sorcha]

So DH wants a pirate coat.  He has chosen view A in Simplicity 4923
http://www.simplicity.com/p-2198-costumes.aspx
We've found some nice black velveteen fabric but I'd like to line, at the least the body, with some broadcloth to give it a little shape.  The pattern does not call for lining on the coat.
Has anyone made this pattern?  Any suggestions on construction or ideas for lining?

[Kate XXXXXX]

Line the whole thing.  Don't use broadcloth, it'll make the coat difficult to get on and off, as it isn't at all slippery.  You need either a heavy satin coat lining or cotton sateen curtain lining.  If you go for cotton sateen, use a coat lining for the sleeves.

[gem]

I would *always* defer to Kate, but I was going to say that I lined my 18th century jacket with quilting cotton, and it worked beautifully (but it goes on and stays on; you don't take it on and off like you would a mundane coat, so keep that in mind).  And Lady K said she lined the Chaucer coat she just made for a client in broadcloth, too.

As for actually constructing the lining, make it exactly like you make the full coat (in fact, I use my linings as mockups, tweak the fit with the lining, then move to the fashion fabric), then slip one inside the other, right sides together, and sew around.  "Threads" has an excellent online tutorial for lining a jacket: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4366/bag-your-jacket-lining

[Adriana Rose]

I had a heck of a time figuring out that coat! It got to the point that I just yanked the sleeves off it and made it a REALLY long vest

[Lady L]

I made that coat several years ago, in gold/black Italian cut velvet, with black velveteen contrasting gores, pocket flaps and cuffs. I also made the pockets functional. It wasn't difficult to sew, but it did get rather heavy after I added the sleeves. I thought the directions were easy to understand and had no trouble with constructing it. I also made the shirt in black linen and the vest in gold suedecloth, with black satin lining and back. Not a beginner pattern, though.
He's not wearing the black shirt in these photos, though.





This one he has the black linen shirt on.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I have made the shirt and vest from the Jack Sparrow pattern. I use the JP Ryan 1750's Coat pattern for Pirate coats.

The last Pirate Coat I made was for Mad Irish, which I lined in a Quilter's Cotton Broadcloth. Pirate coats are heavy enough and keep one plenty warm too.

[Jon Foster]

I'll have to check my new coat. It might be the same pattern. My wife made it for me... Mine isn't lined. The height of our faire season starts in August and runs through September (lots of hot weather). Anything before or after that is casual attendance.

Jon.

[iain robb]

I made a coat from that pattern, and I was rather dissatisfied with the fit. My own fault, I suppose, because I didn't stop to figure out how and where to take it in as I went. But I ended up with something that is indeed very full and flowing below the waist, as it should be, but kinda looks like it sags off my shoulders.

By the way, I made the godets -- those triangular inserts in the coat below the waist to give it fullness - -out of a gold fabric, as I did the inner cuffs, and I think the contrast with the navy blue of the coat is quite nice.

[Sorcha]

Thanks for all of the great information!
gem~  Thanks for the link!  I've never done a bag lining.  I think I might try on this project. I will be using the lining for fitting as well.
Lady L~ I remember that coat.  It's great!  You mention that lined the vest.  Did you line the coat as well?  How did that work for you?  Did it get too heavy?
I made notes of everyone's great suggestions here.
M~

[Deckard And Zhora]

I got this pattern on sale for $1.99 in the hopes of getting my husband in garb (he's new to the whole idea). I like seeing the finished product! It would be neat to do a lining that could be added or removed, especially with the broad range of weather for TRF. I'd like to know how you made out!

[gem]

Sorcha, I was really scared to try lining a jacket, but then I made a lined 18th century jacket from a pattern by JP Ryan, and it went together like nothing!  So easy and straightforward.  If the tutorial doesn't help as much as you'd like, you might pick up a mundane jacket pattern that includes a lining, just for the basic steps in the instructions.

[Lady L]

Lady L~ I remember that coat.  It's great!  You mention that lined the vest.  Did you line the coat as well?  How did that work for you?  Did it get too heavy?
I made notes of everyone's great suggestions here.
M~

Sorcha, Thank you!
I have lined many things in the past, but I didn't line this coat. It was already heavy enough. I bought some lighter weight fabric to make another coat, but I haven't started that yet.

As gem said, it isn't really difficult to line a coat. You make the lining just like the coat, then sew it right sides together along the front edges and across the neckline. Up, across, down. Then, turn it right side out. I hand stitch the sleeve hems and the bottom hem. Usually, there is about an inch of the fashion fabric turned under on the sleeve and bottom hems. Turn your lining under inside and stitch.

[isabelladangelo]

I *just* made this for my Dad for Halloween out of red velveteen with a white satin lining.   I don't pay attention to directions anymore so I just cut out the sleeves, the cuffs, the "flaps" (I made real pockets to hide behind the flaps which my Dad was thankful for), the front pieces, and the back pieces.   I then cut the front pieces and the back pieces from the white satin I had left from lining Mom's coat.   

I bag lined it but it wasn't that hard to do.   I didn't line the sleeves because I didn't have enough material so I turned the edges over at the armhole and just sewed it up that way.   

[gem]

Sorcha, there's a new thread on Pattern Review about lining a jacket when there's no lining pattern.  It's *just* getting started (only one response so far), but it might be worth following, once the tips start coming in!

Link to PR discussion

[Kehle]

Can anyone who's added real pockets to this coat tell the basics of how to do that? I'm currently making this coat and I'd love real pockets.

Thanks.

[LaurenLee]

Thought I'd add my little pirate coat I made for my grandson this year.. I got everything else at the thrift stores, including the boots that I glued big suede cuffs on, and the ladies felt hat that I formed and tacked into a tricorn.. isn't he cute??  This is from the Jack Sparrow pattern...

[Lady L]

Fantastic pirate!

[Lady L]

Can anyone who's added real pockets to this coat tell the basics of how to do that? I'm currently making this coat and I'd love real pockets.

Thanks.

Using the top flap as a guide for the width of the top of the pocket, I drew out the pocket on tissue paper.
I made it deep enough for his hand. I like to fold the pocket pattern in half, then draw/cut it so it is symmetrical.  I rounded the corners at the bottom, because the fabric is thick there.

Then, cut out 2 pockets. You may want to sew about a 1/2" in from the edge, around the whole piece, then fold it in and press down. For the top hem, I sew 1/4" under, then fold back about an inch and sew the ends, turn it right side out and thats your top edge of the pocket. Next, sew the pocket to the garment, start at the top edge, sew down one side, then the bottom, back up the other side. Be sure you have them on straight, though! After I sewed the pocket on, then I sewed the flap above it.

Hope I described that well enough, it's harder without diagrams.