Pattern Advice?

[Jademozingo]

I need some pattern suggestions. I need a pattern that isn't wench wear but not high noble either, I do intend on wearing a corset under whatever it is. 

Thanks
Jade

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Then a simple Middle Class ensemble that doesn't require a hoop-like underslip called a Farthingale is needed, but petticoats to give that fullness.

A photo of an idea will help in giving pattern suggestions Such as one by Lynn McMasters 

Made out of wool and accented with Black wool as a secondary trim, with some silver toned buttons to denote a higher Middle Class rank. A nice ruff, and petticoats underneath. Worn with a Corset and Chemise.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Depends how much historical accuracy you want, but you could take a serious look at these:

http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/TudorLady.html

This book might also help:



As might the patterns that go with it:

http://www.tudortailor.com/patternshop.htm

Ninya's working lady outfits look fantastic:

http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/galleries_c16th_ninya1590s.htm

http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/galleries_c16th_jess1569-2.htm

The child's version is wonderful too.

Reconstructing History do some nice patterns that can be made plain or dressed up:

https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/renaissance.php?c=22&d=190&w=24&r=Y

[gem]

The Margo Anderson Tudor ensemble has a supportive kirtle (so no corset), but her Elizabethan ensemble/s would work nicely (either the full Lady's set, or the Working Woman's set, which is all included in the Lady's.)

[Aiacha]

Then a simple Middle Class ensemble that doesn't require a hoop-like underslip called a Farthingale is needed, but petticoats to give that fullness.

A photo of an idea will help in giving pattern suggestions Such as one by Lynn McMasters 

Made out of wool and accented with Black wool as a secondary trim, with some silver toned buttons to denote a higher Middle Class rank. A nice ruff, and petticoats underneath. Worn with a Corset and Chemise.

It's funny you posted this because this dress is inspiring my next new outfit. er...after the Sherwood garb is done, that is...

[Lady Toadflinger]

I am with Gem on the Margo Anderson patterns!  Her work is great, and you can go as plain or fancy as you like.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I have several of the Margo Anderson  patterns ensembles myself. They are wonderful for basic Middle Class to Royal/Noble Class garb. It all depends on the fabrics and embellishments one adds.

[Jademozingo]

I saw several I am thinking of using. One of Margo's Patterns I am goingto dress down a bit for more of a country knight's wife.  I also am looking for something a bit more to the medieval for another project.

Jade

[Cilean]

I need some pattern suggestions. I need a pattern that isn't wench wear but not high noble either, I do intend on wearing a corset under whatever it is.  

Hi Jade

Okay I tend towards more H/A than anything else, so I would suggest this pattern from Reconstructing history:

https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/rh213-1560s-70s-flanders-gown.php?s=&c=22&d=190&e=30&q=1&p=593&w=21

Although this has been called a "Flanders" gown the ladies from Tudor Tailor Claim it to be more English than Flanders. You could make this with summer weight wool or if you would like 5oz linen to help with heat in the summer.

Or you could also try these patterns:

This is the common woman's patterns from Reconstructing history:
https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/rh208-elizabethan-commonwomens-outfit.php?s=&c=22&d=190&e=30&q=3&p=286&w=21

Here are Margo Anderson's Working Woman's Patterns
http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/ElizWorkWmn.html

The thought that people who were not Royal or of the Privileged wore the same outfits has really changed in the past few years.  With Tudor Tailor bringing out their books on Tudor Lifestyle and With Kass showing what the Irish Wore, it really is not the same.

So these are what people who were not of the above class but could be good Gentry, there was no such thing as a "Middle Class" in Renaissance, so people did have a huge hierarchy that you could see where they placed in life.  Unless they were of the very wealthy Merchant class looking to 'step up' to the lower Aristocracy.

So if you were a lovely young lady from the village? Like the Miller's Daughter who was of some means you would not wear 'Wench gear" but would were some of the outfits that are shown here!

Look at this lecture on Social Classes it will help you out!
http://www.brandonsd.mb.ca/crocus/library/social_classes_in_shakespeare.htm

Okay here are some pictures of what I am speaking about

   


 

And the big one:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/54/Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.jpg
You will have to click and then look at all of the people and what they are wearing to get the full lusciousness therein!


If you look at these portraits you can get a pretty accurate view of what Lower Gentry and Townspeople of the English Renaissance wore.  They are lovely and not really like the 'toned down Royal gowns" which we have done to show lower Gentry in the past at all.  They do not require a bum roll or a true farthingale but perhaps a corded petticoat would work under them, it does for my own gowns.  

I would also suggest picking up Tudor Tailor from there site :www.tudortailor.com, I think you would find it invaluable in your efforts!!!


I hope this helps you!

Cilean

[gem]

Cilean, great references!!  I especially love the last sketch you posted (the one where the woman on the far right has her mouth covered).  It's one of my favorites.

The more research I do, the more I'm learning that merchant class is probably my favorite--I love the emphasis on shape and tailoring and the sort of respectable simplicity of the pieces.