Hey. Fair today was particularly cold, and I don't have any outerwear to wear over my doublet, so I'm looking for recommendations. What would be historically accurate? Would a cape (half length) or cloak (full length) be right? What sort of clasp (presumably not buttons)? Also trying to avoid furs or anything like that.
A circle cape, half length, no hood, would be accurate. A clasp (cheap and easy, can get a decent one at Joanns or Wally World for around $3) is worn at the neck. The cape is worn with your sword arm showing, not directly in front. Sir Walter Raleigh (https://dustandcoffeestains.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/sir_walter_ralegh_by_h_monogrammist.jpg) is wearing something fur lined, but worn over the shoulder with the sword arm visible.
Another option, and honestly, it's a LOT warmer, is the Dutch cloak. Sir Jerome Bowes (http://www.thecultureconcept.com/circle/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Portrait-of-Sir-Jerome-Bowes.jpg) has one over his shoulders in this portrait. It's basically a half circle cape with sleeves - meaning you can keep it closed and still use your arms.
I made mine (http://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2015/07/late-16th-century-dutch-cloak.html) out of an old red wool blanket and lined it in silk. I wore it just the other day with only the chemise sleeves underneath and my wool German dress. I was probably the only person not shivering. Just find either the good ole army blanket at a surplus store and dye it a darker color or buy about 3 yards of heavy wool. You'll need enough for the front and back but also the sleeves (they can be either thin or baggy depending on the time and place you want to depict). Add trim if you want. It's not a super hard pattern at all and I'm really happy with mine.
With cooler weather coming on you can pick up wool blankets at thrift stores generally pretty cheaply. I've found a few and in a range of colors. The nice blanket weight wool makes super toasty capes, warmer than my full length cloak that is made out of a middle coat weight wool.
Which reminds me, I've got three more to make... Hopefull by this time next month.
I have made full length cloaks in the past, but won't do it again. They look impressive, but when worn in the rain, one has to constantly watch where you sit, since it drags in puddles. Also, cloaks billow open in the wind, so really need more than just a neck clasp.
Save money on less yardage, and make something shorter.
When I do it again, I'm looking at a surcoat or a dutch cloak.
Cassocks are good. Elizabethan ones are more or less doublets that go over doublets. Jerkins are also a good and right thing. Tabbards can work well, depending on the wind.
Or you could just wear thermal underwear under everything. That's totally invisible if you're buttoned up. And keeps your legs warm.
Thanks!
Chris
I've made coats and (full length) cloaks. The cloaks were made of surplus Army blankets. I cut gored panels to assemble the cloaks; made them full circle, and ankle length. One has a hood, and one has a collar. Easy to make, and so very warm! And while they look really neat, they are a pain to wear.
I've made two different coats (three, if you count the pirate coat-ARRR!), both based on Cass McGann's Sea Dogs pattern. One was the pull over coat (per instructions) and one was something I modified to have a fold over closing in the front (kinda like a Japanese Kimono or a Karate gi) that I saw in a period painting.
IMO, a coat for warmth and general ease of wear is the way to go. A cloak looks really nice, and sure has the period feel, but it's kinda a pain to wear.
Good luck on whatever you choose! Have fun with it!
I wear an outer jerkin atop my regular doublet as part of my standard wardrobe. Presumably, with proper lining one could get quite a bit of warmth from one if so designed. As for cloaks I am a fan of the "scholar cloak" personally. They usually have two or more clasps on the front with optional slits for your arms. The versatility allows for one to wear with arms in when colder or out when so desired and still grants a stately appearance. Note on cloaks however, it you want it to truly be a rain cloak and provide warmth, opt for something with benefit to overcome both, such as a sturdy wool. Wool provides great warm and is a natural water repellant.