I'm just getting ready to start a muslin of this (view B, the short one) for Milord's dad. I'll be seeing him next weekend for what will probably be the one and only test fit (we live in different states). I know Big 3 patterns tend to run large, and I'm wondering what everyone's experience with this one was, fit-wise.
Milord's dad has recently lost quite a bit of weight (about 60 lbs), from when I made him his last garb (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17691164/314609899.jpg), so *theoretically* he should be easier to fit this time! He is very small in the shoulders, but still with a fair amount of belly. The last time, I cobbled together two patterns and multiple sizes--a medium, IIRC, in the shoulders, and something like a 4X in the waist. Happily, his measurements (chest/waist/hips) now fall squarely in the XL size range, but I know his shoulders haven't gotten any wider! (Neck-to-shoulder he's 6", shoulders across back 18".)
Any advice for tackling the muslin? My instinct is to split the difference and cut out a large, but that may be asking for trouble...
Gramercy!!
Here's a pic of hubby in the one I made him. It's a bit straight lined down the sides. If I made it again I might take in the sides a bit. Hubby is an XL for size reference and I followed the sizing guide. Not the best pic of us. ::)
(http://johnspics.net/trf/jc3a4654_std.jpg)
These doublets are quite straight sided, not fitted at all. I have been disappointed with the lack of taper to the waist. So, for your FIL, this may be just the thing!
I believe this pattern has a seam down the center back, so make the muslin mockup in XL, and take it in at the rear center seam and the front opening. You may also wish to leave extra material at the arm holes and trim them after fitting the chest. You probably will not take anything in at the side seams. Lastly, since you're doing a mockup, be sure to see where the waistline hangs, and adjust it up for the tabs.
Also, I have always made a lining piece for the inside rear of the neck, and attached it to the inside front pieces. I have never used their trim guide, nor their lacing guide.
Good luck!
Gem I have used this pattern many times. I find that it runs true to pattern size. When I made the PP's latest long doublet , View B, I did a Full abdomen adjustment. I did what matched his chest, then added 2 inches to the front using that adjustment. It turned out great. Just keep in mind you will be changing the bottom edge length so you will need to add more 'tabs' at the bottom.
I've done MANY FAbA for people and they make guys look so much neater than just doing a bigger size.
4059 is the pattern I used last year to make my first doublet for the hubby. He SHOULD wear an XL in regular clothes. He prefers a 2XL for comfort and because he's self-conscious of his midsection. I cut the XL with no alterations and it was still loose on him. So I put clasps on the front instead of lacing and he wore it open for the most of the day since our faire is in July and August and heat is always a concern. He is also fairly narrow in the shoulders with some extra stuffing in the middle ;-) The shoulders were definitely a bit wide if I were going for a fitted look. Maybe I should have cut the large instead.
This is his modeling efforts at home with it closed, and then how he wore it to faire last season... LOL
(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff362/Soulsticesibe/Costumes%20and%20Accessories/IMAG0201.jpg) (http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff362/Soulsticesibe/Costumes%20and%20Accessories/IMAG0102.jpg)
I have used the pattern many times also. Here they are in differant versions and colours. I have made it with the seam down the back and with out a seam. For Brent the doublet turned out a little big so I had to make sure I took it in a little while sewing. I would say just play with and many fittings. ;)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1593.jpg)
Long version
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1594.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1772.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1771.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1904.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1444_Edited.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1424_Edited-1.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1498_Edited.jpg)
(http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj83/dragonwing1961/Renn%20Faires/MDRF%202011/SAM_1502.jpg)
Those are all so scrumptious. I especially like those which look like cloth of gold and silver. I am no help on the pattern... Just enjoying the pretty stuff today... Thank you!
I myself have never used that exact pattern because it seemed too short. And of course Dragonwing with his skills goes ahead and makes it look absolutely terrific.
Thank you Amy, M'Lord Brent loves his shiney materials ::)
DonCatalina, Thank you as well. You are to sweet. ;)
As you can see that is what kept me busy all last spring and summer. Since then I have made two cloaks with removeable hooded caplet and now working on flat hats and muffin hats. I think Kilts will be next. And again with M'Lords love of the shiney we have found silver and black plaid lame'.
As for Gems question, Butch said it well with the back seam.
Thanks, everyone!! Great information, and I *really* appreciate all the pictures. DragonWing, WOWZA. I knew you'd done this one, but NINE?! Nine of them?!! That's amazing. They all look spectacular, but my favorite is the red silk that's open in the front. Gorgeous.
I ended up cutting a large through the neck/shoulders and an XL in the girth, which resulted in a little wonkiness in the side-back seams that I need to correct--but that's OK, I still have the princess seam block I drafted for him for the Much Ado project, and I'll just replicate that curve. I don't think it's going to affect the fit. We'll see this weekend. Assuming I remember to pack all my fitting paraphernalia! ::) (Usually they come to me.)
Butch, I wasn't quite sure what this meant:
QuoteAlso, I have always made a lining piece for the inside rear of the neck, and attached it to the inside front pieces.
Do you mean like a facing? Even then, I'm still not picturing this. I'm planning to make this reversible (nice upholstery/corduroy on one side, cotton twill for the reverse) instead of lining it.
***
Next on the to-do list: mastering couching on velvet.
Thanks Gem. Yes I have been busy. I think I can do those in my sleep now. LOL!
The red silk is a good one and it can double as a pirate outfit with a waste sash. It does have sleeves but he hasn't worn them yet with it. In addition to the cloaks and hats, I forgot to mention that I made a jerkin out of green faux suede with simple machine leaf/vine embroidery. I have more on my list of things to do. ::)
Welcome to the world of fully-fledged garb addicts, DW!
Quote from: gem on June 06, 2012, 11:40:18 PM
Do you mean like a facing? Even then, I'm still not picturing this. I'm planning to make this reversible (nice upholstery/corduroy on one side, cotton twill for the reverse) instead of lining it.
I tell anyone if you are going to line it then just make it reversible! Same amount of work for two garments! ;D
:D Kate as soon as I got back into sewing and the garb, I knew I was going there. There was no stopping it.
Quote from: gem on June 06, 2012, 11:40:18 PM
Butch, I wasn't quite sure what this meant:
QuoteAlso, I have always made a lining piece for the inside rear of the neck, and attached it to the inside front pieces.
Do you mean like a facing? Even then, I'm still not picturing this. I'm planning to make this reversible (nice upholstery/corduroy on one side, cotton twill for the reverse) instead of lining it.
***
Next on the to-do list: mastering couching on velvet.
Gem, I'm talking about those front pieces you cut for the inside opening. They end right around the shoulder seams inside. I end up making a matching piece for inside the rear neck connecting the two front inside pieces. Look at the 6th photo in DragonWing's series; the black damask with the red. At the front neckline, the red piece folded down. That's what I mean!
You said you made it large thru the shoulders, but XL lower. How did the arm holes turn out? That would be my concern!
I'm finally getting back to this project!
(http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/dc815542dd8975d4c8091c54dfa77be773627e1.jpg)
Fit-wise, the first mockup (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23865558/403425178.jpg) went very well (wish I could say the same for the photos! LOL). As Butch noted, I do need to tweak the shape of the armscye, but that's not a big deal. I also need to add a little ease. Not too much--it fit *very well* as it was, but I think he (and MIL!) would prefer a little looser fit. So right now my plan is to add 1/4"-3/8" at the side seam on each piece, giving me 1-1.5" extra all round. I just don't know if 1.5" would be too much extra ease? (Milord will be able to get an extra fitting in, thank goodness!)
I'm planning to do one side in the gold/black colorway (as shown in the sketch, although I'll be making the shoulder tabs from the contrast/black, like this doublet (http://www.cardinal-creations.com/Philippa/DraftingBodiceOrDoubletPattern/CompletedDoubletFront.jpg). Ok, yes--on that doublet they're red, but you guys know what I mean, right?!)
The other side will be that blue brushed twill--more of a working-class look--and I'd like to use that brown suede tape as trim. I only have 6.5 yards of it, though. Any suggestions for trim designs using very little trim?
My plan is to make the alterations to my paper pattern, then baste together the blue side for Milord to take home to his dad in two weeks.
Thoughts?
Gramercy!!
Gem I think the fit in the body looks good, it isn't too tight and it isn't too loose. Unlike the doublets in the pattern picture are huge on those guys. I would not add more than an inch of ease unless the shirt he is going to wear under it is very bulky or the reverse side you are making is going to be super thick. It is a bit hard to tell what is going on in the collar area but it looks like you have it well in hand.
For trim, sometimes less is more? I think the brown just along the front edge and the main seams would work well.
I'm getting ready to make this pattern for my husband, and I'm really appreciating all the info about fit! I wasn't originally going to make a muslin of it, but now I think I'm going to!
Skitter, it really is a nice pattern (see DW's Gallery of Nine on the previous page as evidence!), and I'm really happy with the way mine turned out, although I mentioned in another thread that if I ever make it again, I will flatline it with canvas. The fabrics I chose ended up being a little lightweight, and I just prefer the more substantial feel of my own heftier bodices, I guess!
I posted this in the Finished Projects thread, but here's how it ended up!
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/24182181/403876817.jpg)
I never got a shot of him in the reverse side, but here's that, as well:
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23865558/403860774.jpg)
One thing that others have noted elsewhere is the lack of a collar. I don't mind that so much IF the gent wearing it has a shirt with a nice collar... which my FIL does not. ::) So I'm planning to make him the one with the ruffle, in black, for this fall.
You didn't mention this, but if you are planning on making the shirt, Milord and I both found (I've made it for each of us) that the yoke seam is quite snug under the arms, making it hard to pull on and off over the head. You might want to take a narrower seam allowance through that area, or grade it slightly roomier.
Have fun!!
Love it, gem!
Good tip on flatlining with canvas . . . I'm going to be using a pretty sturdy home dec fabric, so I think I'm ok. I didn't even think about making it reversible until I did some searching here -- next time for sure.
Husb decided on the A view (the longer version), and we picked out a nice cotton for the lining (because Texas), and I read through the pattern; it seems pretty straightforward (I may have just jinxed myself).
Now I'm debating whether to do a proper muslin or to sew up the lining first and use that to determine fit. Hm.
For now I'm not planning to make the shirt . . . he has two already which could be worn with it (both have collars, luckily). I appreciate the tip about the yoke, though! Thanks!
So far I'm finding this pattern to be really straightforward . . . though I'm only about halfway done (I have the top bit done for view A) and this weekend will try and tackle the rest.
Anyway, either the directions are fairly logical or my sewing skills are improving a lot. :)
Update: I am almost done, and I think I may be doing something wrong -- it has gone together too easily!
It fits the husb pretty well; if I make it again for him I may make some minor alterations (he is wide of shoulder and narrow of waist/hip compared to the way the pattern fits), but all in all I'm well pleased so far.
Pictures forthcoming.
While this pattern has many pluses going for it, it is a good one to use when starting out to make Doublets.
The pattern can be altered for smaller waists to bigger guts. What makes it look better is when there is a Collar, which I am surprised this pattern omitted.
Was anyone else surprised about that?
Yep, I may have to alter the next one I make . . . and possibly add a collar.
All in all, though, I thought the pattern was really straightforward, which was a nice surprise. I have a feeling Husb is now going to want more than just the one.
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on February 23, 2013, 10:27:49 PM
While this pattern has many pluses going for it, it is a good one to use when starting out to make Doublets.
The pattern can be altered for smaller waists to bigger guts. What makes it look better is when there is a Collar, which I am surprised this pattern omitted.
Was anyone else surprised about that?
I agree about the missing collar, I was surprised about that as well. But when I made it the first time for my husband didnt draft one in. Maybe next go round I will do that.
I don't necessarily mind the lack of a collar--many doublets and jerkins that you buy at Fair don't have them, after all--and that's the look this pattern gives, Fairwear, not historical. I know Milord and my FIL would find a collar uncomfortable.
I do think there should be a collar in this ensemble SOMEWHERE (in the photo you can see that my FIL's shirt doesn't have one, either, and it would look much better if it did), but the 4059 shirt pattern includes two different styles of collar, which helps make up for the lack of one in the doublet.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU for this thread, I'm about to embark on this pattern this week and this was full of great advice :)
This pattern is excellent for starter doublets for faire. Easy enough to do in a few days, even wkth sewing on closures.
I'm super excited- my only worry is if this pattern will still fit or if I'll essentially be drafting a new one. The Fiance has lost a TON of weight and I can't remember if we purchased this pre-weight loss or after- eek!
Mock ups, mock ups, mock ups! Get some cheap fabric (the $2 stuff) and make up only the fashion fabric. See if it fits and edit it where it doesn't. Also, most big three patterns, you need to go down a couple of sizes from what the pattern tells you away.
HI everyone! i'm new to this site and new sewing doublets. ok, I'm a Mundane....sorry. :) I'm making this one for my husband and he wants the sleeves attached so that when he is fencing, the blade does not go in-between the opening and hit skin. Any suggestions?? also I am using an XL. the shoulders and length will be ok, but i'm worried about the belly area. he has a beer belly but drinks no beer. you get my point. what is the best way to add extra room in the stomach area without changing the shoulder area.
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome! Please review Gem's posts (above) on how she modified the pattern for her FIL. The 4059 does fit kind loose, you may want to do a mock up in the XL just to see if it's already big enough.
What about the sleeve? How to sew it on? Sleeve right side out, doublet inside out, and wing right side out. Assemble all 3 (sleeve inner most, then wing, then doublet) and pin it (lots of pins!). sew ONCE and turn it right side out to make sure it's right (and you put the right sleeve on the right arm hole!). If satisfied, turn doublet inside out again and reinforce stitches. Finish inside edges (or don't) as desired.