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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: gem on April 21, 2014, 12:53:47 PM

Title: Lining & trim suggestions?
Post by: gem on April 21, 2014, 12:53:47 PM
I'm making an English fitted gown (http://img0.etsystatic.com/007/1/7379708/il_570xN.384162836_83er.jpg) from some "mallard green" cotton velvet:

(http://ii.worldmarket.com/fcgi-bin/iipsrv.fcgi?FIF=/images/worldmarket/source/16618_XXX_v2.tif&wid=62&cvt=jpeg)

...And I'm trying to decide what to use for the lining and the guards. I'm planning to wear it with a lot of different things, from my purple damask kirtle (avatar), to my black bodice and skirt, to my coral Italian gown. For the lining, I think I want something that's at least a little bit slick, so it hangs nicely and is easy to get on and off. What kind of fabric do I want... and what color? Black is always a safe possibility, but I'm entertaining more interesting ideas! :)

For the guards, my first thought was black velvet... but velvet on velvet? I think a different texture would be nice.

Ideas? Suggestions?
Gramercy!!
Title: Re: Lining & trim suggestions?
Post by: LadyStitch on April 21, 2014, 02:08:22 PM
Gem,
If you intend to have layers it is best to have something slick.  Slick in period terms can be allusive. The slicker something is the more it will slide over the fabric.  The problem is that 'slick' fabric can also mean man made fabric.  Weigh what your pros and cons are depending on what you want.  As for color, I would have said first black.  If you want something a little different, think contrast.  Which do you want, something to conceal or something to stand out? 
As for the guards, I would go with a different texture.  Velvet on velvet is a bad idea.  They will "stick" together too much, is my thought.  Maybe a brocade of some sort? Maybe am embroidered piece?
Title: Re: Lining & trim suggestions?
Post by: isabelladangelo on April 21, 2014, 07:18:23 PM
Linen for the lining and either gold or purple for the trim.   
Title: Re: Lining & trim suggestions?
Post by: Hoowil on April 21, 2014, 10:37:17 PM
I have the horrible habit of using whatever is on hand in enough quantity for lining. It has blown up in my face from time to time, and one of my wife's bodices (thankfully lightly boned to go over a corset, and the bones hadn't conformed yet) she liked the lining better than the shell....
For colors, I think black would be too plain. Red and green gives a nice pop, but can get a little christmasy. I'd say go for a bright yellow. Something that would give a crisp contrast.
Title: Re: Lining & trim suggestions?
Post by: DonaCatalina on April 22, 2014, 05:15:03 AM
I generally use cotton lining. If you see the lining only in flashes, it's a different texture from the velvet but you haven't broken the bank, nor made your garment warmer than necessary.
If you see a lot of the lining, you might consider dupioni for light weight and texture contrast.
For contrasting trim, why not a rich salmon color? (http://rosemille.typepad.com/.a/6a00e54f9a77b78834019aff0c6cb7970b-800wi) it would be different from the gold you might see a lot of otherwise.
Title: Re: Lining & trim suggestions?
Post by: Butch on April 22, 2014, 08:39:47 AM
Ooo!  Salmon!  I was thinking tan or buff, but salmon would be much more feminine.  Cotton broadcloth for the lining?  LadyStitch makes a good point about slick may mean man-made; and that means lack of breatheability.

No input on the guard texture fabric; maybe something grosgrain?  Or herringbone?  That organized texture would stand out once a person got close enough to see more than just the color.
Title: Re: Lining & trim suggestions?
Post by: Rani Zemirah on April 22, 2014, 08:33:58 PM
My first thought, with that wonderful green, was coral... and salmon was very close to the shade that was in my mind.  If you're going to wear it with a coral gown, though, it might be difficult to match, or coordinate a color that will work with that.  The yellow sounds lovely, though.  A nice buttery yellow, with a bit of softness, but not necessarily a pastel.  Strong enough to hold it's own with the other colors you will be wearing it with, but not so bright that it overwhelms any of them. 

As for guards... what about something patterned, like a wide woven jacquard trim?  There are so many amazing designs to choose from, and you can occasionally find a good price on them online.