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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 08, 2015, 07:05:07 PM

Title: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 08, 2015, 07:05:07 PM
Being that the previous Projects in Progress thread has 215 pages, I thought to restart it for 2015 and beyond.

Happy New Year!

I have started a new Gown project inspired by the White Gown from Elizabeth R. I plan to make subtle changes to the sleeve design and add shoulder treatments using the trim.  (https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10488208_10152963103151280_6963803929417454759_n.jpg?oh=789ad7a20332dc1be2d7c49f9d085e12&oe=553AA899&__gda__=1428252303_84ff194a85f9cfc9ed20abd359460894)

The project so far that I started cutting out on Tuesday.

(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10929228_10152965202196280_5069448681463754656_n.jpg?oh=559807fc3e120c87cc1f4ba85bd718b1&oe=553DFD80)The Bodice with the Passamenterie trim pinned in place where I want it. There will be a red on Gold picot trim to add, as well as 6mm pearl clusters.

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10277790_10152966148046280_3743275450851754227_n.jpg?oh=328c167c5c69152cb016243b7742c8c8&oe=55252378&__gda__=1433328173_2a0db11fdb4a0d66adf2082feea7cfb8)
With the other pieces pinned in place. I will be adding piping in places on the Bodice as well.

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10906457_10152966768576280_859106954103179748_n.jpg?oh=eab6dccc57811432fc169bdfcf74e6de&oe=556F1DFF&__gda__=1429946566_3022681805911d458a6b031de2227f79)
The underskirt with Silk Forepart. I still have yet to pearl the trim and add the companion trim when it gets in.

The fabric for the gown and forepart came from SR Harris. I have enough the  Silk to make a Doublet to wear on warmer days at Faire for a completely different look.

Happy sewing in 2015.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rowan MacD on January 10, 2015, 10:26:42 AM
 Will you be doing all of the pearl edging?  It looks like every single piece is edged in pearls; that's a LOT of trim!


  Note: Looking closely at the the waist treatment on the inspiration gown: There appears to be a different colored bead or jewel every 5 pearls.  The rest of the gown does not repeat that pattern. Interesting.
  Looking forward to the in progress pics...
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 10, 2015, 10:49:03 AM
 The companion trim will be an Antique Gold picot with Red  that I ordered 20 yards of from M&J Trimmings in New York City for $1.59 a yard. I will only do pearl clusters on the Passementerie trim. That trim, I bought from a woman here in Rochester, whose Aunt was a Clothing and Costume Designer who worked in the Garment District in NYC during the 50's to the mid 80's. That trim was from a huge stash over 25 years old, mostly from a NYC company.

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10690251_10152967137916280_3397891983967306386_n.jpg?oh=453e69aa72b574d61ccbfc36614e269b&oe=55259760&__gda__=1428966453_fe33949fa8e30245bb458716ffc2f9df)
The pearl clusters on the trim of the forepart of the underskirt.

More work on the Bodice later today. May even get the overskirt panels cut out.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 12, 2015, 03:58:28 PM
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10363850_10152973233641280_6496953242270856328_n.jpg?oh=90ca70db91f595c23570693624968038&oe=556AE76B)

The Canvas layers folded in half and lightly boned. The companion trim has arrived from New York. I am off to sew that on to the Bodice, picadils, and front Overskirt panels.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 15, 2015, 05:12:23 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10487289_10152979704196280_2943170359514795397_n.jpg?oh=4003e612ddc05585013566f3020a5fdb&oe=5534144B&__gda__=1432646493_b6ce33dc15f726d2c79be963c3d21761)

(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10712746_10152979708431280_5211350670389307743_n.jpg?oh=f0503d2eba3736d0405a788353cf8c14&oe=552F5C6A)

The Bodice is coming together. The piping id all sewn by hand, picadils too. I used the trim for shoulder treatments, added with the contrast trim. The 3/8 inch wide trim  from M&J Trims out of New York City. 30 yards for $1.59 a yard.  The bias tape at the waist is ready to tack down before I add the lining, which will be sewn in by hand. After that, the oversklirt panels will ready to sew together and pleat. 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Renee Buchanan on January 17, 2015, 12:18:34 PM
Stunning!  Stunning!  Stunning!

You outdo  yourself every time, Lady Kathleen.  Your Mary Queen of Scots gown was beautiful.  The red gown you debuted last year was gorgeous.  And this one is beyond words.

What an incredible talent you have. 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rowan MacD on January 17, 2015, 03:28:43 PM
  Indeed- this is my favorite of all (thus far).   The red piping makes the soft color pop!
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 18, 2015, 12:58:09 AM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10931146_10152986241821280_730410466223232673_n.jpg?oh=877524472d5a0a089fb34ed31a10dafc&oe=5566F3F9&__gda__=1433264531_c35af6aa6bf87757d3331c5d7945fc38)

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10941820_10152986248676280_5938726711849829459_n.jpg?oh=fe59020f2485b4ad27be8f13f3c51495&oe=552D1A92&__gda__=1432977028_1e9faca71e8dc40293ef639f12903ba8)

It's coming together. I am going to let the overskirt hang for several days before I hem it. That way, it has a chance to stretch. I cannot wait to get to work on the sleeves after I do more handwork on the Bodice.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Irma on January 19, 2015, 01:02:08 PM
No where near as sumptuous as Lady Kathleen's work, but here are a few photos of my ongoing "Germa-Bethan" doublet.  The idea got stuck in my head to make a "hunting" outfit.  I tend towards German.  The lighter green fabric was waiting to be made into something, but there wasn't enough to make a complete gown.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/r270/10885270_912041105481101_5792912906685151406_n.jpg?oh=d356d70b15db504f34a2a4111bf77ad7&oe=55230329)
There was just barely enough to make up a doublet. The darker green is an existing skirt. I was taken more by the men's doublets in Cranach's Stag Hunt portrait than with the ladies' garments.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10269428_912041318814413_6561482164445489939_n.jpg?oh=879fb03a89d13b4383c9867461859157&oe=5521DE74)
Hopefully, this mash up of different styles won't be too offensive to period purists.  Except for the shoulder and side seams, all the edges are bound with matching bias. The extension at the waist was whip stitched to the bottom edge of the body.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/r270/10429277_912041108814434_5793437591273322178_n.jpg?oh=0e5f887bfe7b3630f6f16c6112ff3c39&oe=552F194B)
(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10933985_914161971935681_2757361315012637519_n.jpg?oh=c16883610412f8c346bebab362faa3a1&oe=555FAF73)
(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10343652_914161965269015_7157348068371043554_n.jpg?oh=e01e809edd8bfc783b1913b78eef9a11&oe=5569E3E0)
The doublet closes completely in the front. The ribbon in this photo is just to keep it on Frau Schneider. The shift/hemd will have some basic smocking at the neckline and the wrists.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/r180/10924721_912049885480223_8759799806587647269_n.jpg?oh=43303dcaaafaec5a8ecbf233b9ad9a5f&oe=55271916)
Also, I have this crossbow I wanted to incorporate as an accessory. It does not have a "bolt," so I am not concerned about possible restrictions attending faires. But, now I need to find a way to carry the thing.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10926231_912468918771653_394956185072072967_n.jpg?oh=aa5b1983ebdaefb0f0535ef12f6e83ad&oe=5563ECC7)
The plan is also to have a green, German-style hat, with feathers. 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 19, 2015, 10:15:12 PM
Absolutely stunning, Irma. I can't wait to see all that this is going to be.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: gem on January 20, 2015, 07:38:11 AM
Irma! I love it!! (And I think I have that same crossbow...)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: operafantomet on January 20, 2015, 02:22:58 PM
Just popping in to drool over the amazing attires you've all started on the last couple of months. FAB!
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 20, 2015, 06:11:48 PM
The sleeves are unfinished, but pinned on for effect., There is still much to do on this gown before it is finished. The overskirt still has to be hemmed. I will take the Bodice to the Shoe Repair for grommets.

(https://scontent-b-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10940546_10152992378646280_8184814392221725571_n.jpg?oh=eed2234547f6a37d73cb7cde89c989a0&oe=5528ADCF)

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10896915_10152992379456280_7308799721251402700_n.jpg?oh=e3b472adbd3730a0a9bab2b0e90a4aab&oe=55208AEF&__gda__=1429342555_60153a99b1cb0402f5ae6f78c6d590ea)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rowan MacD on January 21, 2015, 08:47:07 AM
Will the sleeves be removable?  I love the double shoulder treatment!



I have got to master that pearl cluster;  mine never turn out decently.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 21, 2015, 10:54:47 AM
The sleeves will be detachable, Rowen. They are just pinned onto tne dress form for effect. I am going to finish the sleeves off with Bias tape at the top and sew in large hooks and eyes. I sewed some piping at the bottom. By the panes, I have gold buttons with blood red centers I am going to add for decoration.

I will be wearing this gown in March for an event. Next project when this is all done, a Pirate coat forr my husband in a plum shade of Cotton denim I bought at SR Harris last June. He will be wearing that in March as well.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Irma on January 22, 2015, 09:39:44 AM
GEM:  In what way did you manage the crossbow?  I came upon it on eBay.  There used to be an online source, but apparently the item is no longer in stock.  Thanks for your encouragement.

LADY KATHLEEN:  Do you use a thimble or some sort of finger protection when you hand sew?  I have yet to get the hang of using a thimble.  It seems so awkward.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 22, 2015, 11:47:50 AM
No Irma. I could never get the hang of using a thimble when I hand sew.  I too, find them clumsy to wear.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Irma on February 04, 2015, 01:20:34 PM
Progress on my Germa-Bethan hunting outfit.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10968557_921134884571723_115400701623478054_n.jpg?oh=f8614f72a7d151ca40e5fe5558e6dd11&oe=555240B5&__gda__=1431182309_1afe6aa9a64cac0be8a68534a7b1c047)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/r270/1506774_923912594293952_3585121326739331191_n.jpg?oh=cf35db9a88d56ddcaa68da21cf533d78&oe=556E0750&__gda__=1430944895_ee9327018389b3481ab2b81db2c5eded)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10411361_923912507627294_5001743825358405051_n.jpg?oh=619a637c0315ae1f8da6c4bda1204d1b&oe=555F58BB&__gda__=1432420817_456c7bfe6d420d693a745423195b5165)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rowan MacD on February 04, 2015, 03:40:22 PM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 22, 2015, 11:47:50 AM
No Irma. I could never get the hang of using a thimble when I hand sew.  I too, find them clumsy to wear.
Psssst.   try a leather thimble, or thimble pads.    ;D
  The thimble pads stick to your fingertip, or what ever part of your hand you use to push the needle.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: gem on February 04, 2015, 05:05:38 PM
Irma--sorry, I missed your earlier post! I got my crossbow a gazillion years ago in Toledo, Spain, on a high school Spanish class trip. :D My classmates all brought home wine. Ha!

Your Germa-bethan is shaping up nicely. I wish you'd share more construction details--tell us about the haube and the hat!

I wear a thimble *obsessively,* sometimes even when I embroider. Like Rowan, I like a leather one with a reinforced tip. Size is important--it needs to fit snugly. It goes on the middle finger of your working hand, and its main job is to protect the fingertip from punctures by the eye-end of the needle. THOSE HURT! A good flexible thimble will also help by improving your grip to pull a needle through thick layers.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on February 04, 2015, 05:59:37 PM
Irma.. Your project is beautiful and coming along nicely.

Again regarding thimbles, even the leather ones are clumsy. I am hopeless.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Irma on February 05, 2015, 01:50:25 PM
My brother-in-law made a leather sash for the crossbow. He also fixed a bolt in place - it does not come off - and replaced the bow string. The sling basically slips over my head and crosses my chest like a cross body purse. The bottom of the bow at the bottom of the sling is at my left hip. The upper part is at my right shoulder. I haven't tried it on, yet. I think he did a great job.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10926419_924540220897856_8909520925117774793_n.jpg?oh=1dbbf67373f2bef97fcac34d44a217b7&oe=555738F6&__gda__=1432155470_0b4cc3904119d6f62c6496565ca1b5fb)
The haube was made by Thytyra.  She sells on etsy and ebay.  It is a net made of cording, with a pearl at each intersection, over a fabric base.  The prototype hat was made with a 14-inch circle of fabric, backed with a 14-inch circle of light batting.  There are four "flaps," approximately 8 inches square, backed with light batting, folded in half, stitched on the shorter ends, and then attached to the main circle, matching up the eighth marks with the centers of the flaps, and the quarter marks where the edges of two flaps meet.  I butted the flaps end to end, overlapping the ends to fit make a circle to fit my head.  The main circle then had to be pleated to fit the circle of flaps.  The gold bows are made of rattail cord, stitched into the side seams of the flaps.  When the flaps are turned right side out, the ends of the cords are inside the seam allowance.  I broke two sewing machine needles sewing the flaps to the main circle.  I am sure now because I did not grade back the batting enough so that I was sewing through too much fabric.  The next attempt will have less bulky seams, and the gold cord will be placed higher towards the peak of the flaps.

Regarding finger protection, I have tried the cushions that stick to the ends of the fingers.  The areas that wear the worst are my thumb, the tip of my index finger, and the part of my middle finger between the first and second joint.  The stick-on cushions really didn't help me much, and removing them from my diabetic fingers scarred with 22 years of blood glucose testing was very unpleasant.  The leather thimble was really bulky, and did not allow me to bend my finger.  Regular thimbles keep falling off.  So far, the best results came from covering the sensitive parts of my fingers with regular band aids, and then covering each band aid with a finger cover - sold in the bandages and gloves section of the drug store.  Still not as nimble as a bare finger, but much better than wearing the skin off the finger tip.

Thank you all for your encouragement.  It's nearly done, and I promise to send final photos.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 10, 2015, 10:21:20 AM
I am  working on  another 100% linen shirt order for a clients' husband  in Maryland. The wrist bands match the Neck band and ruff.

(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11046679_10153099361476280_6207564185845197292_n.jpg?oh=d4f11aeff85987afe9813170be00eb32&oe=55BE7C24)

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/11043221_10153099360581280_8406162722345362046_n.jpg?oh=2d196bb4c6dd8db3944bbbfd008b2a46&oe=55889D9D&__gda__=1435387760_da6147385c24f4a44bce76dfcfa2440d)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: operafantomet on March 11, 2015, 03:31:35 AM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on February 04, 2015, 05:59:37 PM
Irma.. Your project is beautiful and coming along nicely.

Again regarding thimbles, even the leather ones are clumsy. I am hopeless.
I'm with you on this one. I handsew a lot, and have a specific pattern for moving the needle, pushing it through the fabric, and pulling it out on the other side. And yeah, the thimble is great for pushing the needle through the fabric, instead of punctuating my fingers... But it always gets in the way for the rest of the process, and I don't get a good grip. I too have tried the leather ones, and the biggest problem there is that it won't stay on my finger. So unless it's a really thick/tricky fabric I prefer to not use a thimble.

Just a general note - thanks to all of you for the fantastic stuff you make and share photos of. Though I'm not really a frequent poster here any more, I sometime just enjoy coming here to gorge in all the beautiful creations, for inspiration, as pure eye candy. Thank you all, and keep it coming!
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rani Zemirah on March 11, 2015, 06:37:17 AM
Goodness... what beauty!  Everything is simply lovely! 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 12, 2015, 10:17:46 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1558462_10152630429636280_61285516643057723_n.jpg?oh=9a903a8c3f56ebef043199c23b43a915&oe=55749A04&__gda__=1433483935_c8a1f5ebaab0682f82e03fe7c0465b61)

The Inspiration for my next personal project.

(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFG1b7KfPr5Dxg1crOb0tg0RPq6JrtTOK6zfQWh-9qvEKHMS-rXw)
This is the pattern from Rocking Horse Farms(no longer in business)  I have to make it with. I will also be making the undergarments to go with this in time for a convention in July I will be impersonating the Duchess of Devonshire. This is one of the gown from the film...THE DUCHESS.

Another version of the gown from Janet Arnold's POF2 book
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p6_Ngty2CUI/TmhnuxsNvVI/AAAAAAAAEjo/bbK7k2DJQDE/s1600/IMG_1282.jpg)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rowan MacD on March 13, 2015, 10:15:25 AM
   That dress is scrumptious! I wonder how the underskirt arched pleating was done?
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 13, 2015, 12:48:17 PM
The pleating on the underskirt appears to be a box pleat, Rowan.

I am going to do something similar that was a period technique.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: operafantomet on March 13, 2015, 12:58:02 PM
TWO OF THOSE, PLEASE!  :o ;D
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Dinobabe on March 14, 2015, 06:18:48 PM
So I had originally posted this as finished but I'm thinking of adding a hem guard on the bottom of the forepart.  It's just pinned and laid on the floor at the moment.  I still want to keep the simple elegance look but I think it adds just enough without getting past simple.  What do you guys think?  Please tell me if it doesn't work!

(https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10968484_10205716786384153_3173042962762173817_n.jpg?oh=96862ab34138ff2818a0ab7364731b11&oe=55BE513A)

(https://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1385920_10205952232870168_7355884138568109949_n.jpg?oh=2a97a79e407e8d0951563ae52bfdc263&oe=557F91A8)

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10411010_10205952232910169_3327154985932139080_n.jpg?oh=570e6ebaed3c0413e27f5321ff926bf0&oe=5585200F&__gda__=1434630141_bf2770bf22351e43ead7802a8c231ab5)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Toua Taru on March 14, 2015, 08:00:47 PM
I like the idea of the hem guard. It goes nicely with the whole ensemble  :)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 15, 2015, 09:33:34 AM
I agree, Dinobabe. An ensemble is never completely finished. Adding a hem guard will spruce up the forepart. Your ensemble will be further enhanced with adding pearling in places.

Might I suggest checking your skirts outside for length so that they are not dragging on the ground. Too often at Faires, I see lovely gowns dragging in the dirt. I like to keep mine a tad shorter so that they do not drag. Not only does that keep the skirts in better condition, it also helps keep them cleaner. For terrain fluctuations vary from Faire to Faire.  Your gown is too beautiful to see get torn up or filthy about the hemline.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rowan MacD on March 15, 2015, 10:53:32 AM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 15, 2015, 09:33:34 AM
Might I suggest checking your skirts outside for length so that they are not dragging on the ground. Too often at Faires, I see lovely gowns dragging in the dirt. I like to keep mine a tad shorter so that they do not drag. Not only does that keep the skirts in better condition, it also helps keep them cleaner. For terrain fluctuations vary from Faire to Faire.  Your gown is too beautiful to see get torn up or filthy about the hemline.
Agree with Lady K.  Those skirts will show every stain and dust spot.   Fortunately guards are relatively easy to add.If you have some of the forepart fabric left, that would look fabulous!

I hem my gowns about 3"above the ground, measured while wearing all the petticoats and undergarments as well as shoes.  You avoid the worst of the ground soil, while the skirts appear to skim the ground, flashing an occasional glimpse of slipper.  Some hem dragging is unavoidable (hence the guard).
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: operafantomet on March 16, 2015, 07:12:24 AM
I somehow think the gold trim looks too yellow. I love the pearl/moss/blue colours you have going on, and I ponder on how to accent that well. Maybe you could do some gold couching on a navy, green or brown velvet trim? Or, like others have suggested, add some pearls to the pattern of the current golden trim.

Re: length: if the skirt is too long as it is now, it's perfectly period to add a tuck. The tuck is basically just a pleat to shorten the skirt, and to contribute to the stiffening of the hem. You can see it in the portrait of this Flemish boy:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Flemish_School_Portrait_of_a_Young_Boy_1625.jpg (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Flemish_School_Portrait_of_a_Young_Boy_1625.jpg)

Of the Spanish princess Catalina Micaela here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/details/antoniomor1544catalinamichaela.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/details/antoniomor1544catalinamichaela.jpg)

In this closeup of an extant Florentine dress from ca. 1560 you can see both the tuck in the skirt hem, and how couching on a velvet trim could be done (though you could use a bigger cord and a bigger pattern to not be stuck with the project for weeks...):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/extant/redpisa8.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/extant/redpisa8.jpg)

For faire wear you could also add a strip of fabric on the INSIDE of the petticoat. Maybe wool felt. This will contribute to stiffening the hem, and to make the hem less exposed to dirt. Much of the dirt will come from your shoes/when walking, on the inside. A strip of wool felt will catch much of this. :)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rowan MacD on March 16, 2015, 08:17:48 AM
  Seriously cool, operfantomet.  I've seen these portraits before, but I had never noticed that fold. Brilliant...
   
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Dinobabe on March 16, 2015, 10:52:21 AM
Thank you everyone! 
The gold isn't as yellow as in the picture.  It matches the blue/green/burgundy/gold ribbon trim very well in person.
The first pic was taken in the back yard so the grass is about 4 inches high!  I have already tested the hem length on flat ground and it is just right.  ;)
I've been thinking about doing some beading but not sure what direction to go yet.
And I'm sure the dress will never truly be finished as I find things to change/add over the years!  lol
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: LadyFae on March 16, 2015, 09:37:12 PM
Oh, YES, Dinobabe! I ABSOLUTELY would add that! I, too, tend to prefer more simple looks, but that adds just the right finishing touch! :D
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Serenity on March 23, 2015, 01:00:09 PM
Lady K - Sorry I'm late to the party.  That gown is absolutely STUNNING!!!  Fabulous as always  :D
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rani Zemirah on March 26, 2015, 11:58:36 PM
I like the gold guard, also.  It goes really well with the trim on the overskirt.  I also like the idea of inner guards for skirts, both to help stiffen the hem AND to help keep them from the wear and tear of dusty lanes!  It just seems like such a sensible idea that I would imagine it was done frequently to prolong the life of such lovely and expensive garments! 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 12, 2015, 09:58:52 PM
An unfinished pair of Paned Slops I am working on for a client in Upstate New York to go with a Doublet made by our own R/F member, Wee Wench. Yes I know they look funny right now. But will look entirely different when I get the waistband on and the stuffing inserted, then the inner lining.

(https://scontent-atl1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11391541_10153326569931280_743842452400512556_n.jpg?oh=e03c5aa4adf44cd377f7f49c7124691c&oe=562A180A)

(https://scontent-atl1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/11108861_10153326570381280_2877039875962497440_n.jpg?oh=366975db352232a088b0355e64594977&oe=55EFE08E)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Cilean on July 06, 2015, 08:16:00 PM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 12, 2015, 10:17:46 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1558462_10152630429636280_61285516643057723_n.jpg?oh=9a903a8c3f56ebef043199c23b43a915&oe=55749A04&__gda__=1433483935_c8a1f5ebaab0682f82e03fe7c0465b61)

The Inspiration for my next personal project.

(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFG1b7KfPr5Dxg1crOb0tg0RPq6JrtTOK6zfQWh-9qvEKHMS-rXw)
This is the pattern from Rocking Horse Farms(no longer in business)  I have to make it with. I will also be making the undergarments to go with this in time for a convention in July I will be impersonating the Duchess of Devonshire. This is one of the gown from the film...THE DUCHESS.

Another version of the gown from Janet Arnold's POF2 book
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p6_Ngty2CUI/TmhnuxsNvVI/AAAAAAAAEjo/bbK7k2DJQDE/s1600/IMG_1282.jpg)



I think many people will want to make gowns now that "Poldark" is out, I know I really loved the simplicity of these gowns
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/9e/13/6d/9e136d35abaaf4546ce4c03102e206ef.jpg)

I think I might have to create one for myself!!

Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: isabelladangelo on July 11, 2015, 07:30:15 PM
(http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/47/02/38844702.5b9ebb66.500.jpg) (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/38844702)
IMG 1303 (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/38844702) par Isabella (http://www.ipernity.com/home/jubileel), on ipernity

The trim is now all sewn on to my soon to be Dutch cloak.  I'm going to Pennsic next week and it does get into the 50's easily at night.  I will need a thick wool cloak to keep warm. 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Dinobabe on July 13, 2015, 12:26:33 PM
I love the way it looks all spread out like that!  Inspires me to make one.  lol
Can't wait to see it finished.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: isabelladangelo on July 17, 2015, 09:11:09 AM
Thanks, Dinobabe!   It's done now and it is so much fun to wear.   I can't wait for the temperatures to drop at night so I can wear the cloak out and about.  :-)

(http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/15/02/38941502.d5de2de8.500.jpg) (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/38941502)
Italian 16th Century Dress (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/38941502) par Isabella (http://www.ipernity.com/home/jubileel), on ipernity

This is my latest in progress dress.  I need to sew the insides, neckline, eyelets, and the pearls along the neckline yet.   I dyed the cotton damask a really nice stone lavender (it's much lovelier in person) as it was originally a federal blue.  I just used scarlet red RIT - one package- in the washing machine.   I got the damask at the thrift store for 5 bucks and I think there was a total of about 15 yards.  So far, I've made two dresses out of it (this one and a houppeland I sold) and still have some of the fabric left over.  I used the width of the fabric (54") for the skirt panels, so this dress only took about three yards of fabric. 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Dinobabe on July 17, 2015, 05:10:19 PM
Gotta love thrift store fabric finds!
I several things made out of thrift store curtains, bedspreads, sheets.....  ;D
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Rani Zemirah on July 19, 2015, 11:43:54 PM
Very nice!  Great find, also!  I love finding fabric at thrift stores!  Particularly lovely 300-600 thread count sheets.  I particularly like the ones that price ALL sheets/blouses/pants/skirts/etc. the same, no matter what brand they are, or condition they are in.  It's exciting to find bolts of fabric, as well, but I seldom find any of those around here that could be used for garb, unfortunately.  Every once in a while, though...
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on July 27, 2015, 11:28:33 AM
My sewing schedule is heating up again as Faire grows nearer for us in Minnesota and my upcoming trip to Europe for 4 to 6 weeks. I have several projects to get done before the middle of September.

What I am working on is a version of this, but in different color scheme with a reversible underbust corset. Not historically accurate, but the client will get a lot of use out of it.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/11201176_10153426629921280_3760654668325944536_n.jpg?oh=38677a604f7586cef5be17ebc688d566&oe=563EBF32)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11694791_10153426631766280_4503625092501041005_n.jpg?oh=5cebe5103351c97a416034122f9c3474&oe=564A9723)
The skirt, I drew out on Black Bottom weight as I would a farthingale with 3 panels on the fold. Instead of a drawstring, I used wide Bias tape for a casing and threaded elastic. The chemise using the SIMPLICITY female Pirate pattern in a shorter sleeved version.

Mockup of the Underbust corset to fit on the client before I cut out the fabrics for that.(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11222812_10153426632541280_402478105433693323_n.jpg?oh=b224f867b9a2917bdbc1ec2a8d0cf66a&oe=565B07F7)

The Corset fabrics.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11694943_10153426634441280_4329050526074928546_n.jpg?oh=9dfaed75a9a3c0bf9cc6fd17b6596854&oe=56136815)

The added drape from Broadcloth to create a bustled look and finished with a tight rolled hem serge.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/l/t1.0-9/11745771_10153427463796280_6421274374800354075_n.jpg?oh=2c1f4a9850454015f2e489a9c47aa88a&oe=565ACC0B)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/11695852_10153427463201280_5147323577919257996_n.jpg?oh=a0de2d1edaa0be358faaf39c048e6b87&oe=56415D26)

The Back with the drape that I used ribbons in the seams and the ends to get that French Bustle look.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11755694_10153427345276280_6487279718189574337_n.jpg?oh=4ec8e9ef716c19ce5b0c1d826b15ae24&oe=560F108E)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: gem on July 28, 2015, 06:43:51 AM
*LOVE* the apple green bustle!

Are you using a pattern for the underbust corset?
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on July 28, 2015, 09:33:51 AM
The SIMPLICITY Steampunk pattern, gem.

The client is coming over Thursday evening to try it on. In the meantime, I have another commission cut out and ready to go.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Butch on July 28, 2015, 12:32:46 PM
That looks very nice!
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on September 08, 2015, 12:13:51 PM
My husband and I are planning to head to Europe in a few weeks for a month or so. As I had a traveling companion last year, Goldie Gopher , the mascot for the University of Minnesota. This  time, Goldie will be properly dressed for when we are in England and Wales. I made him a ruff and a Doublet. I have still to sew on the closures and make him a Flat Cap.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/11960237_10153520702351280_8014892091332875863_n.jpg?oh=1256521fb653b3e9e57baa46d492bbb1&oe=566C37A5)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1661076_10153520702406280_8676692815730839010_n.jpg?oh=6c6778ae80a5a63b29dfe2386c6e0bd8&oe=566E5FFB)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11988543_10153520702276280_7644003077113434022_n.jpg?oh=b0347a9c6e831c892b54cfb46fcec03d&oe=56734B81)

I adjusted toe pattern to make the Doublet shorter. The pattern was based on the doll's measurements and his jersey he wears with a big M on it. Goldie will be properly dressed for the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, Hampton Court, the Globe Theater, and other historical places.

I also costume Dolls as well.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Trillium on September 08, 2015, 04:38:07 PM
now that is just too adorable!  Well done!!
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: LadyStitch on October 14, 2015, 04:39:37 PM
This is 99% done.  We want to get her a real belt, and I added a eyelet modesty panel to the front neck line.  She has a very full Petticoat under it instead of a hoop but I think it will be fine.  She is loving it.  I drafted the coat from a kid size bolero jacket/ vest pattern and looking at the patterns for 1710 gentleman's coats to make her riding habit jacket.  I have enough of the Pink left over to make a skirt so she can have this and an outfit that we can layer turtle necks and t shirts under depending on the weather.  Hopefully this will keep her in Pirate Pink for the next two years. :)

(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n212/shanntarra/022_zpss4fuuubs.jpg)(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n212/shanntarra/021_zpsgxbxmc9l.jpg)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on November 06, 2015, 12:06:08 PM
A project that I am working on for a 5 December Madrigal Choir event. Plus, the client has wanted a gown ensemble for a  long time. Very rough around the edges however. The client is not going for Historical Accuracy. I am going to attach the knife pleated skirt to the boned Bodice. The Underskirt is a separate piece. Detachable Sleeves. Chemise with no ruffs or lace. Hand made French Hood Coronet with simple drape. Fabrics are Black Cotton Velvet, Cotton Brocade, an eyelet Cotton Gauze for the Chemise.

The client liked the out of Print McCalls pattern I had from 1998  that I used for the Bodice. The rest, I drafted. 

P.S. The replica Anne Boleyn Necklace on the Dress Form is one I bought at the Gift Shop at Westminster Abbey in London, England when I was there last month.

(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12208559_10153643160596280_7312654845321367512_n.jpg?oh=121848a5f96e197b39c673698e189a6b&oe=56BE3FFC)

(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12193323_10153632006891280_8186459957723965221_n.jpg?oh=c41e4732597d77046aface6f33a37533&oe=56C455ED)

(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12042859_10153625017291280_7259422173545580568_n.jpg?oh=5154b1796035b3585e7c908686d0a9a3&oe=56C5774F)

(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/12066053_10153625019266280_7853506517038099514_n.jpg?oh=276b3da045d3cfd1c4f7ef0c39c75cad&oe=56B3BFF2)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 14, 2016, 02:19:48 PM
It has been a while since I last posted on this thread. Not Renaissance related, but I am currently working on an 18th Century ensemble in time for Costume Con in Madison in less than 2 months. This is my Vampire from the ages gown.

With all that I have on my plate right now, this will be the only thing I get finished. Who knows what I will have time for before July.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/20288_10153860227021280_8246891256074103_n.jpg?oh=5962cbee3ae7e71f3bf2a25613ba27a6&oe=575447E3)
Unfinished front of Bodice for 18th century gown

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12745903_10153860227856280_4955239709875908533_n.jpg?oh=5343da37ae759d7189ccb9b57183a0b3&oe=575851A2)
Back of gown

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12573176_10153781278436280_1518778357034897878_n.jpg?oh=4ec0cb4f0d71eb2e802361bc7bc739b2&oe=574CFB9C)
Bodice mockup with Silk underskirt

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12472696_10153780861046280_2452442013106745707_n.jpg?oh=1cb0d8ba15c00915523ce962e13be5ce&oe=57556BB8)
Silk Underskirt with knife pleated Dust Ruffle and Corset underlining.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12522964_10153777440836280_6569814660372333213_n.jpg?oh=b1c037673f85913a28806bb60bfa3ec9&oe=5756EE0F)
18th Century Stays underlining with Side Pocket hoops(ordered from The Quartermaster General) and Chemise.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11236856_10153771563171280_4109062516440104452_n.jpg?oh=172a2115a8b17a717eceae870bf9e39e&oe=578BC1E1)
The pattern I am using for the Bodice from now OOB Rocking Horse Farm. The skirt will be knife pleated panels. I will be making a period rousching to decorate it with.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12524345_10153860229801280_7582015830724001019_n.jpg?oh=e86da30d729ca2f2e7ff252d4468dca6&oe=5757E949)
The finished look for this gown from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion book.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: isabelladangelo on March 19, 2016, 09:05:35 PM
I know a few others that are going to this costume con, Kathleen!  Sounds like it will be much better than the horrible New York one.  Your dress is coming along nicely!

(http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/37/06/41393706.f754df8f.500.jpg) (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/41393706)
DSC00196 (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/41393706) par Isabella (http://www.ipernity.com/home/jubileel), on ipernity

I have one shoe done!   I'm recovering a pair of platforms to make them look like 16th c chopines instead.  I need to keep my skirt hems clean somehow and this is how they did it in the Renaissance - just wear higher shoes!
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 25, 2016, 09:09:41 AM
It should be Isabella. I am looking forward to it.

Up to my eyeballs in Commissions and Alterations, here is a project I am working on for a client in Colorado that is inspired by History Channel's  VIKINGS series. A Viking Shield Maiden ensemble.

The Undertunic dress is a Blood Red Linen with embroidered chain stitch at the hem lines. The Over tunic is a medium weight Navy Blue and Saffron wools. I sewed 2 rows of back stitching on the contrast to give more of a period look. Viking clothing was bright and varied depending on status within the clan. Beautiful designs we are familiar with today from Celtic cultures remain popular. The show does that.  I have yet to hand hem and add a Wool Trim in a diamond design and it will be finished. The pattern for this, I drafted.

(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtl1/v/t1.0-9/12798907_10153940414581280_4820519471287974967_n.jpg?oh=a70d68d2a12b307f2b4c67b5d83ef4a5&oe=579208B0)
Front

(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12801468_10153940414641280_1097001354402063640_n.jpg?oh=c1c64350ccbf045f19c05f912c92dec2&oe=578C2A86)

(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/12042708_10153940414666280_1072109457071333656_n.jpg?oh=8cdf274f51b187761aa792eb177e178d&oe=57826217)

This is a fun project so far. I have another commission for another Viking Shield Maiden ensemble that will involve more pieces and real fur accents.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 31, 2016, 12:51:24 PM
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12928387_10153964224426280_7405644244119403972_n.jpg?oh=1b4627cc3d6b1df17ba1c81d59f358b5&oe=578A7D98)

(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12472795_10153964224366280_1193182561856804139_n.jpg?oh=5cec65f767ff80cb287504ba0d60fe13&oe=577CADB3)

I added Rousching and Sequins to the Bodice of my 18th Century gown, along with hooks and eyes sewn alternating for better closing. I have to reset several I see.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 02, 2016, 06:38:17 PM
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/12495062_10153973993261280_5965358792990718203_n.jpg?oh=a79a58f21d0bae2a13640e14cf7e6e3e&oe=57935167)

It is coming together. The rouching about the waist and down the skirt front are ready to be tacked down by hand. I do need to    resew some of the hooks and eyes so that the front closes better.  The skirt is 2- 54" wide panels tightly knife pleated and hand sewn on to the bodice. The hem was also hand done. All I need now is period hair.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Merlin the Elder on April 04, 2016, 05:30:50 AM
I can't help you with the hair, Lady Kathleen...Mine's mostly gone...
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on May 24, 2016, 09:52:25 AM
The Bodice to a new 18th Century gown I am making in time for a Wench/Pirate Festival in early June. This Polished Cotton has been in my stash for 5 years now. The original intent was to make an Elizabethan gown out of it. Thinking harder, another 18th century gown was called for.

Because of the business of the print, I am going add the pleated roushing to the overskirt and waistline. I will make another Under chemise that will have lace edging that will show out from the Bodice and sleeves. The under skirt will be a Burgundy Cotton Twill that will contrast nicely with the gown fabric. This gown will have cording in the back and large buttons so that I can bustle the skirt when out of doors.

I will be dressing up as Gisselle, the Tart of Tortuga, from the Pirates of The Caribbean films to our Minnesota Jack Sparrow.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13232899_10154091818131280_974795971927390112_n.jpg?oh=ff34d690571b7831064c96ff32c69251&oe=57D53603)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/p235x165/13267945_10154091818176280_3849789483671832401_n.jpg?oh=d915e1c3cb737d0a906e454a444103e4&oe=57D4AC9D)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13245369_10154091818256280_4760125750171030347_n.jpg?oh=adabb36770a05a784c9f346c86e160ff&oe=57E4551F)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on May 26, 2016, 09:53:50 AM
Further progress. Yesterday I worked on the Pockets, Under Chemise with added lace, Petticoat, and Undesrkirt. Rather than added ruffles, I did 2 rows of the trim I am using on the Over gown. I plan to add cording to bustle the over skirt so that it does not drag on the pavement when out of doors. There will be 2 large buttons in the back to hold the cording.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13237643_10154095588926280_8225669514292995538_n.jpg?oh=906f0ff82a357b200e6275e3a54740fc&oe=579A7481)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13263884_10154095588991280_5378434889931738810_n.jpg?oh=1ff4d90cca13ab1ee52d8afbbe8b653b&oe=57DFFB76)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13254190_10154095589021280_3594571476096491140_n.jpg?oh=aaeb9300df4ace9396bc6ff2849da79f&oe=57C9FA50)

The Underskirt is a deep Burgundy Cotton Twill that shows up red when photographed.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 19, 2016, 02:29:18 PM
This will be my next project for a client's son not far from me, the coat and vest Bilbo Baggins wears in The Hobbit films.

(https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13445355_10154156808641280_5843028428496568594_n.jpg?oh=9ef18353c626f33bdf8ef73952a2c212&oe=57E76E7F)

The fabric for the coat, a medium wale Burgundy/Wine shade of corduroy is coming from the United Kingdom. I was all over sites in the United States for this and no one had any in stock. I found a site in the UK and ordered 3 meters at 57" wide. I happen to have a costumer friend who lives in Suffolk, and she is sending me the fabric that I had sent to her from this company called Textiles Express.

The coat itself is more mid 1860's Victorian Frock coat. I have a men's pattern that I can scale down to fit a growing boy who is almost 5 foot tall.

(https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13507256_10154156809766280_4554394948392706853_n.jpg?oh=847cbfa23cb018dc937c3368491ab0f7&oe=57DBFCBC)
The replica buttons on the Bilbo Baggins vest are coming from Weta Studios in New Zealand. These are metal cast bronze in a shank. I could have gone with cheesy looking buttons with acorns on them, but it would not be the same. The buttons on the coat have a star like design that I will be able to find easily enough.

I am the type of costumer that if something is worth doing, it will be worth doing right. For this is a client whose son is an avid fan of these films and is fussy. Money is not an issue.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: isabelladangelo on June 27, 2016, 05:16:26 AM
(http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/66/84/42306684.81dfb2a7.500.jpg) (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/42306684)
Sewing Progress (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/42306684) par Isabella (http://www.ipernity.com/home/jubileel), on ipernity

A hand sewn linen dress in the 1570's Italian Peasant style is what I'm going for.   The bodice is done but needs to be ironed.  So does the bright yellow linen trim I'm making for the bodice. 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on July 03, 2016, 06:00:54 PM
Very beautiful, Isabella.

The Medium Wale corduroy I ordered from the UK arrived. It is a gorgeous Wine  shade, 57 inches wide. It will be perfect for Bilbo Baggins's coat. I also have a Victorian frock coat pattern that will work well that I will size down one size from the smallest to fit a growing 10 year old boy who has the potential to grow to over 6 feet. I would rather this coat be too big to start znd wear it for several years.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Puck on July 11, 2016, 07:55:24 PM
In the middle of the night last night I decided to make a wulsthaube and steuchlein to cover my nonexistent hair. Both are stash projects and I did most of the wulsthaube in the wee hours of the night and finished it up today. The steuchlein has been cut and that will be my next mini project.

(https://puckmd.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/20160711_181625.jpg?w=400&h=533)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on August 08, 2016, 10:51:00 AM
A current project I am working on for myself is the new Simplicity OUTLANDER pattern. I was bequeathed a Buchannan plaid in a light weight wool and decided to whip this up for an upcoming weekend at the Bristol Renaissance Festival of the Irish Penny Brigade. I plan to sew lacing rings under the bodice to hold the stomacher in place. I already have an 18th Century Corset and chemise made that I will wear with this.

So far, I am pleased with the pattern. The next time I use this pattern, I am going to cut the front skirt piece straight, rather than the pattern shows. I am not all that impressed with how the front sets once pleated. The Pleating guide is very helpful though. The Underskirt is a Cotton Twill.

(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13912798_10154282061886280_5318618015091696300_n.jpg?oh=96c0935a72d9b49f65a741c8d2d38bc4&oe=585B4BB5)

(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13895293_10154282061956280_8746169321542965617_n.jpg?oh=49b09da3973dcd395840f667ec34f6ef&oe=58116CA6)

Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Puck on August 08, 2016, 02:42:13 PM
Gorgeous as always Lady Kathleen!
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on August 25, 2016, 12:57:35 PM
While things are slow at the moment with Alterations, I decided to make the Earl a new Doublet. I have not made him one since 2004.

Lady Renee Buchanan gave me several batches of fabric she had in her stash that she ended up not using. In one of the batches was a Dark Rose Corduroy. Walla! In my stash, I had trim, piping, buttons, grosgrain ribbon. I did need to buy more piping to finish the Picadils and lining. After this is finished, I will start in on a pair of Venetians to go with the  Doublet.

(https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154334962126280&set=pcb.10154334963631280&type=3&theater)

(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14095940_10154334963021280_1527567883831012053_n.jpg?oh=c0ffa3ac11ff61d897c6094cf57a188f&oe=584F3223)

(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14064236_10154334963521280_3815319643222229705_n.jpg?oh=dd254b6e699b578fc806a2520a40b1b3&oe=585D7660)

I just might make the Earl a new hat as well.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on September 23, 2016, 02:51:24 PM
A new Elizabethan gown I am making for myself to have ready to wear by next week for the closing of the Minnesota Renaissance Festival. I decided I wanted a Doublet gown ensemble. I am using the Women's Elizabethan ensemble pattern from Margo Anderson. I highly recommend making a mockup of the Doublet first to fit over a Chemise and corset larger than a size you wear currently. I cut a size 14 mockup and it was too small. I cut an 18 and did some modifications.

The main fabric is a soft, luxurious Pinwale Corduroy. Lining fabric is a renaissance looking motif in gold over red. The Frames trim is from Pillaged Village. The gold/black picot of from M & J Trimmings out of NYC. The Doublet is underlined in canvas for stability. Pearl clusters of course. The forepart and Under Dickie to be worn pinned onto the corset is the Brocade I made my last gown out of. The overskirt is ready to make once I get the Doublet and sleeves finished.

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14333660_10154415024791280_1803795471053319102_n.jpg?oh=9347ef29d4c4ed6b38a0105bb1614798&oe=58387182)
The Dickie. It was suggested to me to make this to pin onto my corset. Being that I am going to wear the Doublet half way open, allow the Dickie to show a bit as if I was wearing a Kirtle. Less bulk and get the same effect.

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14358802_10154421958161280_7997309861596005340_n.jpg?oh=13631a14ea4c0d5b99cd8214ce66c8a6&oe=586F0589)
The front view showing piping out ling the waist and  shoulder tabs, as well as the neck collar. Spanish sleeves.

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14358963_10154421958266280_3819637788757469140_n.jpg?oh=9edf47f63aa511586af2db8ad307c812&oe=586FAC22)
The Back view. I cannot wait to wear this.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on November 21, 2016, 12:04:18 PM
Yesterday while I   was on the computer, a message popped up on Facebook. I went to it and conversed with a woman from Kentucky looking to have this made for her from the Undergarments outwards. She is part of a re-enactment group and needs this for the latter part of 2017.

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15193649_10154609746626280_5161011924448276014_n.jpg?oh=b51d9267d75fcac780a15d2f95730e57&oe=58C268B4)

I will be recreating this portrait of Queen Mary Tudor as close as possible. After the holidays, I will be fabric shipping for this gown, which I will be looking for a Medium weight Chenille or Cotton Brocade and contrasting fabric for the forepart of the Underskirt and false under sleeves. The Ouches or fancy buttons, will be a challenge to find.

I am planning a road trip down to New Mexico at the end of January. Perhaps I will saunter into a fabric wharehouse and find what I am looking for. 
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Raelyn Fey on December 02, 2016, 08:59:42 PM
That's going to be gorgeous!!!
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: operafantomet on January 18, 2017, 01:57:00 AM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on November 21, 2016, 12:04:18 PM
Yesterday while I   was on the computer, a message popped up on Facebook. I went to it and conversed with a woman from Kentucky looking to have this made for her from the Undergarments outwards. She is part of a re-enactment group and needs this for the latter part of 2017.

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15193649_10154609746626280_5161011924448276014_n.jpg?oh=b51d9267d75fcac780a15d2f95730e57&oe=58C268B4)

I will be recreating this portrait of Queen Mary Tudor as close as possible. After the holidays, I will be fabric shipping for this gown, which I will be looking for a Medium weight Chenille or Cotton Brocade and contrasting fabric for the forepart of the Underskirt and false under sleeves. The Ouches or fancy buttons, will be a challenge to find.

I am planning a road trip down to New Mexico at the end of January. Perhaps I will saunter into a fabric wharehouse and find what I am looking for.

For the ouches/fancy buttons: look for flashy earrings! It's my fave dirty trick. Places like H&M, outlets and online fabric shops can suddenly decide to carry ornamental earrings with a coloured gem to not too bad prices. Stuff like these:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/New-Design-Fashion-Women-Jewelry-Elegant-Vintage-Big-Gem-Stone-Geometry-Noble-18K-Gold-Earrings/1909985541.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/New-Design-Fashion-Women-Jewelry-Elegant-Vintage-Big-Gem-Stone-Geometry-Noble-18K-Gold-Earrings/1909985541.html)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 30, 2017, 03:12:25 AM
(https://scontent-dft4-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17309382_10154992259336280_946395397241316213_n.jpg?oh=3ad8472cadb5190caed3e015cfcecfd3&oe=595A0AE3)

My current project for a client in Nebraska. The 1st Earl of Lincoln(8th named). I have lovely Black Italian Cotton that is soft to the touch. Silver buttons. The portrait does not show paned slops, but I am going to add a nice trim with black Zwavorski crystal beading to add a touch of sparkle on the panes and part of the Doublet. I am doing a variation of this portrait.

Photos as I progress. I have the Linen shirt finished at the moment.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 06, 2017, 10:04:33 AM
(https://scontent-lax3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17796029_10155042505026280_8226818257815759055_n.jpg?oh=9f242fabcb6122ab0785accb2cc54eda&oe=594FD6E4)

(https://scontent-lax3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17796559_10155042505056280_2413765937648194947_n.jpg?oh=8504218ebee91685263aee5c5d22bf1d&oe=59623E65)

The Linen shirt with no lace t the ruff edges. I did add a subtle decorative stitch in white with a black under bobbin to add a classy touch.

(https://scontent-lax3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17796181_10155035811181280_176458638319750672_n.jpg?oh=4dae3c092ac46796617a793f8c6e4343&oe=599AC7D9)
Paned Slops in an Italian Cotton Velvet, with Daisy Gimp trim and 6mm Czech faceted beading to add a slight sparkle when the sun hits it. The underlining is a Quilting Cotton with subtle grey design to add a contrast. I have more Daisy Gimp trim on order to use in parts for the Doublet that is ready to trim and bead.
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 07, 2017, 10:21:28 PM
The Earl of Lincoln Project so far.

The Doublet needs to have the lining sewn down, hand sewn buttonholes, add the buttons, sew in the lacing rings for the sleeves.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17795889_10155049430561280_5767479304707401038_n.jpg?oh=aabe7416670017201cd27fa711c06099&oe=595A6380)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17760172_10155049432356280_6343167984112633091_n.jpg?oh=882f451872d659357b22a1ff7a712898&oe=5993482A)
Title: Re: Gallery of Projects in Progress Part II
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 11, 2017, 11:52:24 AM
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17862745_10155059825466280_4122673436417607706_n.jpg?oh=fb7fda33b070bfc0faf8e628d1a9b76a&oe=594D03BD)

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17884557_10155059831476280_7049369078865021580_n.jpg?oh=f48eb25e8a5f9e13590b30326d6158f7&oe=595C8613)

17 hand sewn buttonholes using a Crewel thread, was murder on my fingers. 17 buttons grace the front of the Doublet. Rings are sewn tightly, as is the lining. Now on to the hat and the Earl of Lincoln ensemble will be finished and ready to ship down to Omaha.