I have made a pattern off my Moresca Max bodice, and I have made it into a front lacing bodice! it looks great
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b387/Adriana_Wolvesbane/P10009491.jpg)
yay
but now I want to make it so there is no side or back lacing, I know that I have to add about an inch on all the seams that were not seams on the first run.
But there is a problem I really dont like how the straps on the orignal bodice sit on the mock up that I made ( my house ate it other wise Id post a pic too)
So how does one go about drafting new straps?
please help!
When you made the pattern from your original bodice, you should have your shoulders on that, have a friend help you drape new shoulders with a NEW pattern that does not have your back and side lacing. Also? You might want to put in front boning, so that the bodice will stand straight in the front and not buckle from the pictures.
What weight fabric are you using for backing on this bodice? I would also suggest a canvas or heavier weight.
Hope this helps!
Cilean
I had used a canvas ducking but I only used one layer so I think thats why the bodice wrinkled like that. And when I wore it for a full day the point that it came to on the bottom kept turning up in a VERY annoying manner so I need to tweak it to more of a rounded thingie
It was my first attempt at both making a bodice AND making my own pattern.
Thank you for your input!
Hey, AR, congrats on your firstie, it gets more fun from here on,
now you are experienced. The look & fit are gorgeous.
You really do want to consider boning, though. My first (un-boned)
became more wrinkly and unflattering with each wearing. That kicky
animal print does absorb the look of the wrinkle, but boning will keep
the bottom front in place far better. Plus, at least for me, when the
grommets started pulling the fabric out of whack, with no support from
internal structure, the bodice became really trashy. The fabric is all frayed around
the grommets, and I'm not sure the time investment to fix her up is worth the
effort.
Oh, yes! on the shoulder strap query - the elizabethan corset generator threads
are very nice for learning stuff about strap fit, highly recommend.
what were the straps doing? If they were buckling on the inside where they attach to the bodice you need to move them in. Just a thought, a trick we use in the costume shop. Make a mock up of two layers of cotton twill or canvas. I prefer cotton twill because it's a little lighter and more breathable. It's also cheap at about five bucks a yard for 60" wide. Once you make a mock up it can either be used as your lining for your bodice or you can recut it and save the mockup to make more patterns from.
Take your two layers and mark where you want boning channels. I always do a thin one on the center seam, then one to two more pieces on each side in the front (more or less is determined by how big your bust is and how much support you want). Then a piece in the sides and in the back. You'll find if you use a good boning your back will feel much better at the end of a long faire day. Decide on they type of boning you want to use. I always use a 1/2" spring steel in the front and 1/2" spiral steel in the sides and back to allow for movement. Most of my bodices have to be worn in shows and by performers who do a lot of physical performing. The spiral gives flexibility and support at the same time. Everyone has a different preference though.
Once you've marked your channels go ahead and stitch on either side of the channel making it large enough for your boning. After stitching slip in your boning and add front grommets (I usually grommet before adding my front boning). Try on the mockup and see what adjustments you need to make. Make the adjustments and try it on again, you can even wear it around the house for a little bit to see if any issues arise.
Once you fix the probs you can make your actual bodice.
Writing in a hurry so if you have questions just let me know. Hope it helps. I know how frustrating fitting can be. It took me ten years to get past my fitting frustrations with humans, then I started horse costuming and the learning curve started all over again LOL.
I would like to change the shoulder straps so that they are attached rather than detachable. I have made a mock up with the existing straps sewn on rather than the way that they are on the original bodice. ( but it got put someplace that I cant remember )
The boining that I used was put in like the original bodice, I now know that I need to move them to fit closer to the grommets.
if that's the only change on the shoulder straps it's fairly easy. Just remake your pattern with the straps attached and make a shoulder seam. You can add a little extra to the seam so when you fit it you have some play room to make it fit perfectly to your shoulder. They stitch together at the shoulders and you're good to go. Hope that makes sense, if not let me know and I'll try to explain better.