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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: nliedel on May 08, 2008, 11:49:39 AM

Title: Terrified Here
Post by: nliedel on May 08, 2008, 11:49:39 AM
I can sew. We're not talking Project Runway, but I don't suck rocks either. I'm terrified of messing up my bodices. I want them as finished on the inside as the outside. I'm not known for that. This year I have to wear these dresses every weekend for two months. I have a paper pattern drafted, Italian late, I'm bringing them to a slight point in the front, but not too too. I am thinking bodice fabric, (cotton jacquard), iron on interfacing, heavy cotton (not duck), boning, lining fabric. I am only going to lightly bone this because I invested in a corset. The corset does not come to a point, so I think three bones in front. One over the point, one pointing up to the right and left and boning where the lacing rings attach.

Any thoughts? I am making a muslin mock-up of the bodice. I made petticoats stiffened with some hemp, instead of lining for the skirts.
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: mellingera on May 08, 2008, 12:03:57 PM
First,nliedel, don't be skert! ;)
It if was me, I would not use the iron on interfacing, too hot, doesn't breath. Use 2 layers of heavy/stiffer material on the inside to hold the boning and sandwich it between the fashion fabric and your lining fabric, then your boning channels won't show on the inside or the outside. You should be fine with the minimal boning, you would be suprised how much just having the extra heavy layers inside stiffin the bodice so it lays real nice, especially over a corset.
This is just my 2 cents, anyway.
Good luck!!!
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: gypsylakat on May 08, 2008, 01:11:21 PM
Yeah I just made/redid a bodice, (I kind of made it but only kind of, I took an old one and used it as a pattern and used the old bodice as one of the layers... does that count as making it?) and I put twill on the inside and that made it so stiff my friend was like omg, that and just a little bit of the plastic boning stuff at hancock was plenty for her (she's an itty itty bitty thing, we've been trying diligently to get her to eat)
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: gem on May 08, 2008, 03:35:24 PM
Yup--with the heavy cotton (I like two layers of canvas) you won't need the interfacing.  In addition to the faults Mellingara mentions, it can tend to shift and bunch over time.

That said, I've used a fair bit of it over the years, and it's been just fine... but if you're past "I don't suck rocks," with your garb, you're probably ready to leave iron-on interfacing behind.

Be brave!  Wonderful things happen when you're brave.  Promise.  :)
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: nliedel on May 08, 2008, 04:24:18 PM
Okay, so I baste the bodice fabric and the lining fabric to one another, then out them together, or baste the lining fabric together, make my channels, then sew it all inside out, leaving the bottom open, turn it, bone it, and then hand stitch the turned fabric together? I was always going to put a braid at the bottom. I'm also running a marathon this fall, so my size will change and I am doing my skirt seperate from my bodices because sizes will change. I hope they change. Please let them change.
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: gem on May 08, 2008, 04:42:31 PM
I sew the 2 layers of canvas interlining/flatlining together, sew the boning channels, and then baste that layer to the lining fabric.

The Baroness shows the method here on her website: http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/renbodice.html

You end up with the interlining and the lining acting as one piece of fabric.  Note that there aren't really seam allowances on the interlining.

Then I sew the lining to the fashion fabric as normal, then turn and finish (add bones, sew straps, etc).  I'll handsew a gown bodice closed, but Fair bodices I'll just topstitch closed by machine.
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: mellingera on May 08, 2008, 06:22:52 PM
Ditto what gem said!
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: gypsylakat on May 08, 2008, 08:41:00 PM
Oh... sometimes i wish i could understand all the sewing talk.... I can do this.... Take stuff.. cut it... sew it together, praying to whoever the gods of sewing happen to be for that day and hope it turns out right.... :( I need to go buy a sewing book...
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: mellingera on May 08, 2008, 11:54:27 PM
Gypsylakat, it can not be as difficult as all that! I just started sewing last spring. I started with a skirt, then a smock from the Elizabethan costume page... Now I am so totally addicted I can't stop!!! Start with something easy from an inexpensive fabric and you're off!  8)

Like gem said- Be brave!

~And if something goes does go wrong, reach to the side, grab the trusty seam ripper, rip it out, and start over again... No harm, no foul!
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: Lady L on May 09, 2008, 01:03:52 AM
Yes,
I did mine the way gem said.
:)
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on May 09, 2008, 04:16:24 AM
Quote from: gypsylakat on May 08, 2008, 08:41:00 PM
Oh... sometimes i wish i could understand all the sewing talk.... I can do this.... Take stuff.. cut it... sew it together, praying to whoever the gods of sewing happen to be for that day and hope it turns out right.... :( I need to go buy a sewing book...

There's a simple glossary of sewing terms here on my web site that might help with some of this vocab stuff: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Useful-sewing-terms.htm

There are plenty of good sewing books about.  Two I like are

New Complete Guide to Sewing: Step by Step Techniques for Making Clothes and Home Accessories (Readers Digest)    
   
Sewing for Dummies (For Dummies) by Janice Saunders Maresh (Paperback - 13 Aug 2004)

I also hear good things of this one, but don't have it:
   
Lotta Jansdotter's Simple Sewing by Lotta Jansdotter (Spiral-bound - 1 April 2007)

Happy shopping!  All available on Amazon (NAYY - just a constant customer!).
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: LadyOren on May 09, 2008, 01:01:08 PM
Take a breathe, take your time and all of it will come out beautifully.  Sewing is not only challenging but it's fun. Enjoy your projects.
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: uhurainmi on May 12, 2008, 11:22:17 AM
Nliedel,

I feel your pain. After many hours of reading construction techniques and dress diaries online, I think I can make a decent gown. However, it's really hard to get started again, after sitting it down for a few days for things like work, sleep,
When I pick it up again, it takes me hours to remember what was going on. I have made notes and started my own diary, but it isn't helpful. Once I get back in the zone, tho', I can sew with a purpose. Whew!
this isn't advice or anything, I just wanted to express my own view given the 'terrified here' subject.

Cindy
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: Lady Grape on May 14, 2008, 06:10:04 PM
I can understand the terror in trying to read the words on a page either of a pattern or the written instructions on here.  I know what I am doing when I am sewing, but when I start reading the words that go along with it.  I always end up feeling lost and puzzled until I see a picture or ask my mom "what do they mean by this?".   Sometimes I can just figure it out by pinning what I think they are talking about and going from there. 

Sometimes no matter how simple the wording is I still end up with a "huh?" until I see a picture. 
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: gypsylakat on May 14, 2008, 06:50:30 PM
EXACTLY...
lol
Title: Re: Terrified Here
Post by: Pascal on May 15, 2008, 09:29:45 AM
Quote from: Lady Grape on May 14, 2008, 06:10:04 PM
Sometimes I can just figure it out by pinning what I think they are talking about and going from there. 

Sometimes no matter how simple the wording is I still end up with a "huh?" until I see a picture. 

Same here.  I normally accept that my first attempt will be a wadder because I sometimes can't figure out what the directions mean until I go ahead and do them.  THEN I realize "Oh, they really meant to do this the other way" or "Oh, that "right" side" or "Ah, sleeves don't go backwards very well".

It gets kind of silly, because once the errors get bad enough, I don't rip them out and correct them, but I'll go ahead and finish the garment to try and find other "gotcha's".  I'll end up with things looking really ridiculous, but it works out because I've found all the snags.

It's a good idea to make a note on the pattern directions when you figure out what they "really" mean.  Sometimes you can't get back to the pattern right away and you may have to rediscover the potential errors all over again.